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Old 05-06-2009, 09:18 AM   #1
RallieConGoggle
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Another Zetec Timing Belt Change Thread

I know there are several of these, but I figure the more pictures you have to look at, the better!

The order of these steps is somewhat flexible, but here's how I did it. I used the Haynes manual procedure, but my pictures are much better and in color.

Tools needed:
New Timing Belt
New valve cover gasket
New Timing Belt Tensioner (recommended)
Ford Timing tools (http://focus.c-f-m.com/index.asp?Pag...ROD&ProdID=709) (optional, but definitely worth the money)
set of metric hand wrenches (including 8, 10, 13mm)
Metric sockets (including but not limited to 10mm, 15mm, and 18mm although 19mm worked for me)
6" extension for your sockets
wobbly joint for your 10mm (I think) socket
slotted screwdriver
Hoist, crane, or block of wood
floor jack & jack stands
Impact wrench with 18mm socket or specialty tool for holding crankshaft pully in place
5/8" Spark Plug removal socket
Torx drivers T45 for the middle cover & a larger one for sprocket gears (sprocket gear torx is not necessary, but is recommended)
set of standard alan (hex) wrenches

This will take all day if you've never done it before.

Procedure:

First, disconnect the negative battery cable

Loosen three bolts on water pump pulley.




Next, remove spark plug wires by twisting the boot to break the seal, then gently pulling the boot off of the plug. When you pull the boot, inspect it to make sure that the connector is still in tact. A damaged plug wire or boot can cost you a coilpack.

Remove the spark plugs


Remove all 10 bolts on the valve cover


Remove all 4 bolts on the timing belt top cover


To do the previous step, you will need to disconnect the coolant reservoir from the body, but leave hoses attached.




Continue removing timing cover bolts


Now the timing belt top cover will have enough play that you will be able to remove the valve cover. Remove the ventilation hose on the back of the valve cover, then pull off the valve cover. It will not come off without a little force, but don't use anything but your hands to apply the force. Be careful not to damage the valve cover itself, the throttle cables, or any of the surrounding parts.


If you haven't already done so, loosen the lugnuts on the passenger side front wheel and jack up the car. Secure the passenger side of the car on jackstands at pinchweld behind the FP wheel well. Remove the FP wheel. Next, remove the plastic fender wall cover. The stupid little mounting screws will not all come out easily, so you may need to yank them out with pliers and get some replacements from Ford.

Next, remove the Serpentine belt. Our Zetecs make this much harder than it should be. You will use a hand-wrench (13mm, I think) to turn the bolt on the tensioner pulley clockwise. It takes a lot of torque, and will hurt your bare hand without a cheater bar. A socket is not an option because there is not enough clearance. This is a view from below inside the passenger side wheel well.


When the belt is de-tensioned, slide the belt off of one of the pulleys.
NOTE: NEVER put your finger between the belt and the pulley. If the wrench slips, you could seriously injure that finger.
Use a screwdriver or pull it with your finger between two pulleys where there is no danger of pinching.

Now that the S-belt is off, you can set cylinder 1 to TDC (top dead center). If you have the special timing tools mentioned above, this is very easy. Turn the bolt on the crankshaft pulley clockwise while watching the camshafts. When the concave grooves on the ends of the camshafts face up, the engine is at TDC. There are two TDC's, and we need the one before the power stroke (I think). When we are at the correct position, the 5mm bar will slide into the slots on the end of the camshafts.


This will probably take a few attempts to get exactly right. The bar is machined very tightly so that there is no room for error. If the bar only fits into one slot at a time, your belt has stretched and the timing is slightly wrong. If the bar fits into one slot, consider it close enough for now, and insert the timing pin.

To insert the timing pin, locate the "blanking plug" and remove it. This plug is on the front of the engine block behind the catalytic converter, and is most easily accessed from below the vehicle. I think it is impossible to see, so study these pictures. The tip of my index finger is touching the bolt head. The view is from below on the driver's side. The automatic transmission is on the right side of these pictures.



Here is a picture of the bolt, but your head will not fit where I put the camera, so don't try to look at it.


The tool I used to remove this bolt was a 10mm (I think) socket with a 6" extension & a wobbly joint.

You may be lucky enough to have a socket & extension that's just the right length so that the handle clears the surrounding connectors & manifold, but still fits behind the CAT. If not, use the tool in the above picture.


This is a comparison of the timing pin and the blanking plug.

Understand that the timing pin is specially machined to completely screw into the hole in the engine block and slide into a slot in the flywheel only when the engine is at TDC on cylinder 1. It is not intended to "block" the engine or to prevent the crankshaft from moving. It will break if you attempt to use it for this purpose. If the pin does not fit, you may need to slightly move the crankshaft either way to get the pin to fit.

When you're sure that the engine is at TDC, temporarily remove both the timing pin and the bar to prevent damage.

Use an impact wrench, or the Ford tool to hold the crankshaft pulley in place while loosening the bolt, and remove the crankshaft pulley.


With the pulley off, replace the timing pin. If it fits back into the block, and screws in all the way, you have successfully removed the pulley without turning the crankshaft. If not, put the crankshaft pulley back on and try again. This seems tedious, but it is necessary to prevent engine damage.

Once the crankshaft pulley is removed and the timing pin is successfully inserted, remove the timing belt lower cover.



Now, go ahead and remove the water pump pulley. The three bolts should already be loose.






The easy part is over, to be continued...


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Last edited by RallieConGoggle; 05-06-2009 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:52 AM   #2
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Excellent pictures and write-up. When it is completed, it should be added to the sticky list.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:06 AM   #3
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Part II

Here comes the fun part!

Soon we will be removing an engine mount, so connect the passenger side hoist hook to the 20 ton hoist you have on the ceiling of your garage. This will require removal of the hood.


Don't have a 20 ton hoist? If you don't have a hoist or a crane at your disposal, you will need to resort the the block of wood method. Use your floor jack to press a wide block of wood against your oilpan. Later, we will need to SLIGHTLY raise or lower the engine to allow access to certain bolts and parts. Take extreme caution not to jack the engine too high, or allow the jack to lower too far.

When the engine is safely supported, remove the passenger side engine mount. Remove the two nuts from the engine studs, and three bolts from the fender. The fender bolts may require an impact wrench or long breaker bar as they are torqued very tightly.



Next, loosen the idler pulley in order to access the lower left bolt on the timing belt middle cover.


And the timing belt middle cover. Note that the lower right bolt is T45. The idler pulley will probably only come out with the entire cover, and may require raising the engine slightly to free it from the fender.


Now you have full access to the timing belt!


Next, remove the timing belt tensioner. This is the small pulley on the left under the large sprocket. Note the location of the hex slot and write it down or photograph it. Loosen the bolt on the tensioner and turn the hex slot until the belt is at its loosest.

Before removing the old timing belt, note that all of the slack is on the left side. Take several pictures if possible.

Completely remove the tensioner and remove the old timing belt.


Now you can gently rotate the camshafts so that the timing bar fits perfectly into the slots.


Now it's time to begin installing the new timing belt. Feed the belt around all of the sprocket gears and shove about an 11mm socket under the cam sprocket to hold the teeth in place.


Pull the belt tight and feed it into the exhaust (right) cam sprocket teeth, and around the intake (left) sprocket leaving all of the slack on the left side where the timing belt tensioner will soon be installed. If you're like me and you've had the timing belt in your garage for a year, it shrunk and will require some stretching.



Next, replace the timing belt tensioner with a new one if you have it, or your old one if it is still intact. Start tightening the bolt and turn the hex slot to the position it was before. This should be pointed toward the arm on the upper right side of the pulley. Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to the specified torque (18 ft-lbs).

Next, remove the timing pin and timing bar. Temporarily replace the crankshaft pulley and turn the engine through about 10 rotations of the camshafts and re-check timing using the timing pin and bar. If timing is still okay, proceed to putting your engine back together. Don't forget to replace your valve cover gasket before reinstalling the valve cover.

If your timing bar will not fit perfectly into the slots when the engine is at TDC on 1, and you wish to adjust the timing, follow these steps. There is a specialty tool from Ford to hold the sprockets in place while turning the torx bolts. If you are careful you will be able to do it without this tool.
1. remove timing bar
2. Holding the sprockets in place, use the large torx driver to loosen both sprockets bolts enough so that the camshafts will rotate independent of the camshafts.
3. gently rotate the camshafts until the timing bar fits perfectly into the slots.
4. remove the timing bar
5. Holding the sprockets in place, tighten the intake and exhaust sprocket bolts to specified torque(50 ft-lbs).

If the timing components will not line up, you need to remove the timing belt and line everything up and try again.

Good luck!
Hopefully you just saved yourself over $300

NOTE: I did not adjust my timing because I lost my large torx drivers and didn't have alternate transportation. It was close enough that it didn't really matter, but a couple of degrees off will rob you of HP and fuel efficiency.
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Last edited by RallieConGoggle; 05-09-2009 at 10:20 AM. Reason: added torque specs
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:21 PM   #4
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rep for you man. I'm getting ready to do this in a couple weeks!
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:11 PM   #5
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Awesome thread man, way to help people out.
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Old 07-07-2009, 03:48 PM   #6
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Wow, I'm really surprised this didn't get more hits.

But I have a question. What if you don't have the specialty tool from Ford or an Impact wrench to remove the camshaft pulley?
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bergner View Post
Wow, I'm really surprised this didn't get more hits.

But I have a question. What if you don't have the specialty tool from Ford or an Impact wrench to remove the camshaft pulley?
I dont know if this will work on a focus but ..

on my mx6 i had a breaker bar wedged under the control arm on the crank pulley nut.

Cranked motor slightly,,,, busted it right lose.

Someone will have to chime in on wether this works on a focus or not .
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:45 PM   #8
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I am about to do this! I can't wait... Groan.

All my friends say how expensive it is to own a car, I tell them how much work it is to own one. I never knew it cost so much to have your timing belt changed. I'm glad I'm a do-it-yourself-er.
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Old 07-12-2009, 05:32 PM   #9
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Pulley Tool and question

I just made a tool to hold the Crank pulley to allow the nut to be removed. I'll post some pics and info later. Just some flat stock and some bolts

I have a question...I can't seem to get the cam bolts loose. Any suggestions? The Torx socket in the bolt seems awfully short. It slipped once. I'm afraid of stripping it. Am I correct in that this is a right hand thread?
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyneutrino View Post
I just made a tool to hold the Crank pulley to allow the nut to be removed. I'll post some pics and info later. Just some flat stock and some bolts

I have a question...I can't seem to get the cam bolts loose. Any suggestions? The Torx socket in the bolt seems awfully short. It slipped once. I'm afraid of stripping it. Am I correct in that this is a right hand thread?

I'm sorry, I didn't remove my cam bolts. I should have, but my timing was almost dead on without adjustment. Are you using a tool to hold your sprocket in place? Ford recommends a special service tool for this, but you can make your own. Sorry, I know I'm not much help.


Your post was a week ago, so I'm assuming you figured it out or your up a creek... I hope it went well.
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