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Old 03-25-2009, 06:56 PM   #1
honhon
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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The Ultimate 03-09 Focus Thread, SUPER LARGE AMOUNTS OF INFO.

This is a compilation of all my previous threads ive finally decided to throw back up, minus the pictures. i dont feal we need pictures to discuss things that much.


First lets start with the duratec focus information:

ok... this is to help everyone!


years the duratecs are in focus'


2.3 was released largely in 03... it was put into the 03 and 04 zx3's for the green states. yes the 03 and 04 are old bodystyles.

in 05 the Focus ZX4 ST was released and it gained the 2.3L with a few more ponies

in 05 the zx3, ZXw, ZX5, and the lower end ZX4's got the 2.0 duratec no matter manual or automatic tranny.


----

Ok onto modifications:

the difference between the 2.0 and the 2.3 are small in the fact alot of the parts that can be bought and installed on the 2.0
can in fact be bought and installed on the 2.3 and vise-versa.

HEADER (notice how i DID not put a S at the end. its a 4cylinder people, it has only 1, uno. singular, mono):

F2 V3.0 Step Header. has a stepped design, it has 1-5/8" primaries and 1-3/4" secondaries and a 2.5" collector. to contain some of the back pressure.
Cosworth Header
Focussport header (stock or aftermarket flex can be used, Focussport is in the process of making their flexpipe)

Intake:

you have a few more options here.

Steeda:

SRI i.e. short ram intake, comes with an alluminum heat shield that sits right behind the d/s headlight.

Focussport.com CAI:

Alluminum Cold air intake, uses stock MAF tube, but comes with a very nice ITG air filter.

Cosworth CAI:

3 piece design replaces all 3 pieces in the intake, BUT! it bottle necks at the MAF, because the maf is programmed from ford to work
inside a certain diameter tube.

F2focus shortram/cai:

This is kinda like the stealth intake, not a true short ram, but not a true CAI either.

Stealth mod:

This is a cheap mod, it'll only cost you the price of a cone filter, the filter gets clamped onto the end of the MAF, and the air filter hangs
in front of the transmissions

MarcyMotorsports CAI:

This is the same designed unit as the focussport CAI, but usually you can find these cheaper and they come in different colors.

K&N:

You have 2 options from K&N, the typhoon is a metal unit and all 1 piece and they have a FIPK which is like a composite plastic all one piece... they claim the plastic
doesnt absorb heat as the metal ones and is supposed to produce 1hp or 2 more.. dont know if thats true, but it depends on the engine and conditions also.

Zomk Speed:

T-304 aluminum intake pipe
Come 3" exchangeable stainless steel filter
Cold Air Intake System allows maximum airflow through the stock manifold system
Maximum airflow through the throttle body is reached, and maximum airflow results in better throttle response and more horsepower
Increase 5-10% horsepower
Produce better intense sound under your hood and better gas mileage

HPS:

HPS has in house Dynapack to ensure every HPS intake increase the horsepower, torque and improve the gas Mileage
The HPS cold air intake can help your engine to suck in more cooler air resulting in better throttle response and higher explosive horsepower output
Featuring the 3-Ply reinforced SILICONE couplers/reducers, the HPS cold air intake kit provides stability even the vehicle is in an extreme driving condition

Exhaust:

steeda - sells magnaflow
magnaflow - stainless steele 2.25inch
borla - 2.5inch stainless steele.
trubendz.com - different variations too many to list... check their website... trubendz.com
MBRP - 2.25inch stainless steel.

if you want to hear clips go here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ht=stealth+CAI

or here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=59148

Camshafts:

Crower
Cosworth
Crane
Crespo

as well they all make springs and retainers for their stages, as well as supertech makes springs, and possibly with Eibach making springs now.

Crank:

Cosworth
OEM

Cylinder Head:

FRPP - www.fordracingparts.com
Port your own

Pistons:

Focussport
Cosworth
OEM
Supertech
wiseco
CP
Custom

Rods:

Supertech
eagle
Cosworth
OEM
Focus-Power (Tom informed me he makes rods for the duratec capable of 750whp)

Camgears:

We do not have adjustable camgears on the market yet.... marcymotorsports has a cam adjustment tool available on his website, but it seems his focus stuff has taken a back
seat... you can try to contact him if you want to get it.
There is a set on massivespeedsystem though if you want to try it.

Tuner:

SCT Excal 2/3
SCT Pro Racer.

Clutch/Flywheel:

EXEDY/Focussport
Spec
Fidanza
Clutchmasters

Diff:

Quaife
Torsen
Phantom Grip (heres a How-To by Sporadic - http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163836 )

Throttle Body:

Focus Central (if you can find it)
CFM
Cosworth
port your own

Under Drive Pulley(s):

CFM
SRmotorsports
Cosworth

Intake Manifold:

Cosworth


Forced Induction:

Focussport, stage 1 and 2.
Hiboost/F2 Focus Turbo kit... not in production anymore, but you may find a used one, it'll be rare, very rare if you do.

F2 Focus has a stage 1 and 2 turbo kit.

Future Forced induction - F2focus apparently is in R&D with a supercharger setup for the duratec.....


Coolers:

Focussport oil cooler(manual and auto transmissions)
Cosworth Oil to water cooler

Engine Fasteners:

ARP

Engine Mounts:

Rear - VF engineering, CFM/steeda poly inserts, also steeda has their own billet rear mount
Driver Side - VF, Steeda.
Passenger Side - VF Engineering

you can find poly inserts on various websites, probably easiest to find is on CFM's site.

Specific tools:

CFM has a camshaft alingment bar and bolt to aid in camgear installation and camshaft installation as well as their UDP install.
Rotunda, Rotunda is the tool brand that makes the special "ford" technitian tools


----

here is some various information about the duratec focus:

the 05 duratec focus shares the same suspension as the 00-04 focus, so those kits will all work as the same,
but in 06 ford desided to make the front shocks larger in diameter and alittle taller, so 06+ you HAVE to find springs and shocks
that are said to be for 06+ but the rear is the same all the way across, just the front changed in 06.

shifter - any april 2002+ short throw shifter will work... if your car does NOT have the reverse lockout, you can get a lockout delete from CFM.

Pillar Pod - the A-pillar did NOT change from 00 - 07 so if you see a pillar pod for 00 - 04 it will work in your 07. i have one in mine.

strut tower bars - the front engine bay bar is specific to the duratec. newedge and focussport sell them, the rear because remember the suspension has NOT changed,
can be used across the board.

----

Originally posted by, PowerByDuratec:


How do I know if I have a duratec?

- All foci in the 2005 model year are duratecs. Only the ST is a 2.3L duratec in this year. All others are 2.0 duratecs.
- 2004 foci the engine is an optional feature in all states and remains standard in the Green States (California, New York, Mass)
- 2003 Foci that have duratecs were standard for the most part of that model year.
- No older models have the engine.

The easiest way to tell if you have a duratec is looking at your exhaust manifold. If it is in the rear of the engine bay (against the engine firewall) then it is a duratec.

How can I tell if my car is PZEV-certified?

In the green states (NY, CA, MA) all duratec engines are PZEV certified and carry the equipment. If you are on the borderline of these states it is possible to have a PZEV car. The only duratec in the green states to not have PZEV status is the 05 + ST. Still not sure? The window sticker that came on the car will say PZEV next to the name of the car.

Are there any Short-Ram Air Intakes?

Yes there is the Steeda Ram Air. It adds approximately 5 hp. It's for those who want a decreased risk of hydrolocking. However this setup is still not fool proof. See Egz’s link.
AGAIN: THE BEST WAY TO PREVENT HYDROLOCKING IS BY NOT MODDING YOUR CAR

----

now here are some helpful links i have found by just SEARCHING the duratec section:




ok... so you have all these parts on your car... now... how much power are you making...?

here are 2 threads to help... one is a big discussion on what it would take to get to 200WHP and the other is on someone who DID.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ht=stealth+CAI

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ighlight=snuck

want to see what the most popular intake is?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ht=stealth+CAI

think your MTX75 is slow and you want to put the SVT 6speed in it? read here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131493

Nitrous anyone?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131001

do you have one of the many focus' with NO TACH?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=52986

do you want a well rounded car that'll be a good car in the straights as well in the corners?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129575

do you want an LC-1 wideband?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129248

whats the best cam for you?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=54334

do you want the cosworth intake manifold on your 2006+ focus?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128092

want to see what the big name duratec users are putting out?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101159

heres a COMPLETE guide to HOW TO's from S2:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...&postid=791880



----

So... this thread is just to help the duratec section alittle... ive seen a few threads lately that are askin the same questions... so i thought i would help and make a more
direct source of INFO, for the new people...

again this is just to help! its like a guideline, not set in stone.

if i have missed anything or if you have any questions please feal free to post or if you have a question dont forget to post a thread about it, IF it hasnt been asked before (searching doesnt turn up anything)



thanks for looking!


----

Focus Parts websites:

www.steedafocus.com
www.focussport.com
www.C-F-M.com
www.newedgeperformance.com
www.ebaymotors.com
www.massivespeedsystem.com
www.marcymotorsport.com
www.focus-power.com
www.f2cars.com
www.fordracingparts.com
www.trubendz.com
www.mbrp.com
www.borla.com
www.magnaflow.com
www.saleen.com
www.roush.com

and you can also get ford produced parts cheaper sometimes here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/f...splay.php?f=94

----

and Last but not Least, here is a Wikispace made by member Egz:

http://duratec.wikispaces.com/


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2008 Focus:


As of right now there are few options for the 2008 focus, Ford has once again changed things around. Focussport was succesful with a few modifications to their turbo kit to make it work.

The 2008 focus has a drop in panel filter like the zetec focus, and K&N hasnt released a new panel filter yet.

But on their website they say their short ram will fit it. which i believe. and its good for about 5hp.


---- Originally Quoted by: P0WeRbyDuratec I un-stuck his thread and added his information he typed below, sinse he hasnt been online in over a year and to help reduce a slight amount of stickie clutter.

Quote:
How do I know if I have a duratec?

- All foci in the 2005 model year are duratecs. Only the ST is a 2.3L duratec in this year. All others are 2.0 duratecs.
- 2004 foci the engine is an optional feature in all states and remains standard in the Green States (California, New York, Mass)
- 2003 Foci that have duratecs were standard for the most part of that model year.
- No older models have the engine.

The easiest way to tell if you have a duratec is looking at your exhaust manifold. If it is in the rear of the engine bay (against the engine firewall) then it is a duratec.

How can I tell if my car is PZEV-certified?

In the green states (NY, CA, MA) all duratec engines are PZEV certified and carry the equipment. If you are on the borderline of these states it is possible to have a PZEV car. The only duratec in the green states to not have PZEV status is the 05 + ST. Still not sure? The window sticker that came on the car will say PZEV next to the name of the car.

What transmission is in my duratec?

All manual transmissions in the duratec are identical to zetec’s transmission
The automatic transmission is a zetec variant which is slightly modified to handle more torque. It is the torque convertor I believe that has been modified.

Where can I find performance parts for my car?

Egz’s sticky at the top of this page will show you all the links to all the parts known to fit on this car. It also breaks down the application by your type of engine.
The link: http://duratec.wikispaces.com/Parts_List **New working link**
Engine Designations: D23 - 2.3 L Duratec, Not -PZEV
D23E- 2.3 L Duratec PZEV certified Found in Green States and optional in others
D20 - 2.0 L Duratec
D20E- 2.0 L Duratec with PZEV

What is the best overall starting mod for the duratec?

- This one is basically a matter of opinion. However, most people buy a cold air intake from either Marcy Motorsports or Focussport. Both intakes are extremely popular and cheap. They are your best bang for the buck.

Are there any CARB Certified parts available?

Not yet but some are pending including the Cosworth CAI, K&N CAI.

Is there any threat to hydrolocking?

With every mod done to a car brings its apparant dangers. Modifcation should be taken at own risk. For CAIs there is a danger of hydrolocking. However, if you avoid the deep puddles you should be fine. Many people own CAI’s and have yet to encounter any problems.

Can a bypass valve be used to protect against hydrolocking?

No. There is no bypass valve that will fit on any of the duratec intakes at the moment.The aem bypass valve won't work because you are adding length to the intake setup, Unlike most of the intakes on the market, duratec intakes are designed to be attached to the frame at certain points. Obviously that can't happen if there is a bypass valve. It is also difficult because of the bending of the tubes to go into splash shield It would probably be difficult at best to be able to manage that. Not to mention the diameter difference if there is one between the intake tubing and bypass valve. Those are some of the reasons.

The next best thing is to retain the splash shield after installing your intake
THE BEST WAY TO PREVENT HYDROLOCKING IS BY NOT MODDING YOUR CAR.

Are there any Short-Ram Air Intakes?

Yes there is the Steeda Ram Air. It adds approximately 5 hp. It's for those who want a decreased risk of hydrolocking. However this setup is still not fool proof. See Egz’s link.
AGAIN: THE BEST WAY TO PREVENT HYDROLOCKING IS BY NOT MODDING YOUR CAR

How effective are the Underdrive Pullies offered by Focus Central?

These badboys are a difficult mod to install. This is because the engine is an interference motor and if the pulley is put on incorrectly your pistons meet your valves. If you are not mechanically talented I recommend not attempting this. The mod is only good for a minimal gain at best.

Are there any street-legal headers available?

No this is because the PZEV has a cat inside the stock exhaust manifold. In order to have an emissions legal header, one has to maintain the emissions levels as stock.

What are the options for Forced Induction?

So far only nitrous is the only option. However this is extremely illegal to have driving around town. Fines can be very expensive. Many people have been trying to put a turbo on or supercharger. Powerworks has a prototype of a supercharger. Many companies are working on turbo applications, however a problem lies in that the duratec’s internals can only handle 7 psi of boost. Working around will be beneficial being that incredible gains can be expected. The sister car Mazda3's car companies have constructed a working turbo that have proven to be largely successful, but for the moment that type of modification is limited to not include any duratec focus.

In the future it will be an option.


What is a Balance Shaft and what is its removal do?

A balance shaft are shafts that cancel out secondary vibrations usually associated with driving 4 cylinder cars. These vibrations can be described as the shaking usually felt by smaller engines. Removing them will remove 12 lbs ( I think) of rotating mass which is worth usually 4-5 hp.

What is the best exhaust for me?

It is a matter of opinion, you want to pay for a name? Do you like name brand? Stainless Steel ( for places that get snow) or Aluminum? 2.5 or 2.25"? Can you retain the 2nd cat converter or not? Do you need the exhaust silenced or not. Egz’s site provides a description of each exhaust kit to help you fit your needs.

If you live in an area where there are no smog checks or visual inspections of emissions, 2.5 in exhausts that eliminate the 2nd cat provide the best gains.

What is the Cam Gear Adjustment Tool?

Marcy motorsports has developed a tool that elimantes the need for adjustable cam gears; the stock ones work just fine. This tool will allow the adjustment of your cam gears with simple instructions. Call up Marcy Motorsports to find out the adjustments that fit your application.
originally quoted by Egz.

Quote:
Intakes: Interchangeable
Intake manifolds: Bolts on, but not optimal
Exhausts: Interchangeable
Headers: Bolts on, but not all are optimal
Cams: Interchangeable
Cam timing tool: Interchangeable
BSD: 2.3l only
Pistons: 2.3l only I think
Rods: 2.3l only
Short throw shifter: Interchangeable
http://duratec.wikispaces.com/Parts_List

Originally quoted by Jarrod

Quote:
I did a quick search through this thread, and couldn't find this information, so please forgive me if it's common knowledge around here. But, you can check the VIN of any vehicle to see what engine it is equipped with. The 8th place in a VIN number is coded for a specific engine. I just spent 20-30 minutes looking through a couple of different model years of Foci, and I think I've got it nailed down.

Z = 2.3L Duratec
N = 2.0L Duratec
5 = 2.0L SVT
3 = 2.0L Zetec

Hopefully this'll help anyone out who's shopping around for a certain with a certain engine/transmission combo (like me).

Anyway, great forum and have a good day!
Saleen Focus Information:


Quote:
SPECIFICATIONS 2004 SALEEN N 2 0 Focus
GENERAL
N20 Focus
Curb Weight, lb. 2620
Weight Distribution, F/R 61/39
Fuel Capacity, gal. 14.5
Wheelbase, in. 103.0
Track, F/R 58.8/58.5
Width 67.0
Length 168.1
Height 54.7
Trunk Space, cubic ft. 18.6
ENGINE
Type 2.3L, 4V, DOHC I-4
Bore and Stroke 3.44 in. x 3.70 in.
Displacement 2.3L, 138 cu in.

Exhaust System Saleen Performance Center Exhaust system
Horsepower 152 bhp @ 5750 rpm
Torque 155 lb-ft @ 4250 rpm
Fuel Premium Unleaded 91 Octane
Nitrous Ready Direct Port Nitrous 75-hp Wet System with 10-lb Nitrous Bottle

DRIVETRAIN
Transmission 5-Sp M/ 4-Sp A
Differential Ratio 3.41 (5M)/3.73 (4A)

SUSPENSION
Front
Rear

BRAKES
Power 4-Wheel ABS Brakes ABS Optional
10.2-in.Vented Disc (Front) Standard
8.0 x 1.5-in. Drum (Rear) Standard
Saleen 13.0-in. Vented and Slotted Discs with
4-Piston Calipers (Front) Optional

WHEELS AND TIRES
Saleen Aluminum Alloy Wheels
17 in. x 7 in. Front Standard
17 in. x 7 in. Rear Standard
High-Performance Pirelli
P215/40ZR17 (Front) Standard
P215/40ZR17 (Rear) Standard

MacPherson and lower A-Arm with Saleen Racecraft system, including N2
struts, coil springs, 1.25-in stabilizer (anti-roll) bar with urethane pivot bushings,
specially calibrated suspension settings and strut tower brace

Control Blade multilink independent with Saleen Racecraft System, including
Saleen N2 Racecraft shocks, coil spings, 0.98-in stabilizer (anti-roll) bar with
urethane pivot bushings


Review from Sport Compact Car on the Saleen focus:

Quote:
During our week driving this silver Saleen N2O Focus, something completely unexpected happened: We liked it.

Why is this so unexpected?Well, because we thought we would hate it. And after so many years of doing this for a living, we can usually predict such things. Not this time. This one threw us a curve ball.

Our initial negativity was due to the car's outlandish bodywork and weak stance. Nothing turns us off more. Most of what you pay for when you buy a Saleen N2O Focus is that bodywork, and it's just not our taste even if it is rallyesque. Saleen calls it a race-inspired aero package that consists of Saleen-designed front and rear fasciae, side skirts, fender flares, a hood scoop and a Saleen twin air-foil rear wing. We dig the hood scoop and the center-exiting two-pipe exhaust. You can keep the rest. If you like the way it looks, you probably think Paris Hilton needs bigger boobs. We're ass men.

What really bugs, however, is the car's lame stance. The 17x7-inch TSW Revo wheels, which are six-spoke cast-aluminum pieces, just aren't wide enough to fill the car's now radically flared wheel wells. We've never seen a rally car with stance like that, and we hope we never will. It looks like Schwarzenegger's torso walking around on Christina Aguilera's legs. We're told 2005 models wear unique wheels designed by Saleen.

Wrapped around those wheels are Pirelli tires measuring 215/45ZR-17. Our test car wore optional and supersticky R-compound Pirelli Corsas, which certainly add to the car's performance and are a steal for the $475 they add to the Saleen's $25,999 MSRP.

Another option worn by our test car is a front brake package. For $1,365, 13-inch vented front rotors with Saleen black enamel four-piston calipers replace the stuff Ford bolted on at its Mexican plant. Every Saleen N2O Focus keeps its Ford-installed rear drum brakes.

Our test car was also optioned out with an Alpine in-dash stereo/DVD, which adds another $2,744 to the car's sticker. We're told it sounds great. Too bad we never figured out how to use it.

Thankfully our silver tester was without the optional Saleen extreme rainbow paint, which costs another $16,000, and can cause blindness in small children. Tallied up, our test car carried an MSRP of $30,583, which is quite a load of cash for a breathed-on Focus ZX3 PZEV.

OK, let's get to the good stuff, which is underneath, inside and under the hood.

Included in the purchase price is an excellent suspension package engineered by the folks at Saleen. Like the Saleen Mustang for which the company is famous, the PZEV Focus is delivered to the Saleen facility in Irvine, where it's transformed into a Saleen. Part of that transformation is the installation of all-new suspension bits the company calls the Saleen Racecraft System. It includes stiffer dampers and coil springs all around, larger 1.25-inch front and 0.98-inch rear anti-roll bars with urethane pivot bushings and a front strut tower brace.

Although we've ridden in Saleen Mustangs with the compliance of cinder blocks, that was years ago. Things have improved to the point of being impressive. This car rides as well as a stock SVT Focus, which, if you haven't heard, Ford has killed, yet mightily outhandles the factory hot rod.

Circling the skidpad, our tester worked its front Pirellis like it hated them, but recorded a very stout 0.97g. Then it tackled the slalom at 73.1 mph, exhibiting good balance, quick reflexes and awesome stability.

Those numbers not only stomp our Project SVT Focus, which managed 0.89g and 71.5 mph stock, but they're also better than we managed in both the EVO MR and WRX STi we tested last month.

Such grip requires good seats, and Saleen delivers. A perfectly shaped set of Momo chairs is part of the package, as is a Saleen shift knob, white face gauges, a short-throw shifter and custom floor mats.

The Saleen's braking performance is also strong, despite those silly rear drum brakes and a lack of ABS. It stops from 80 mph in 194 feet and from 60 mph in only 108 feet. For perspective, our SVT stops from 60 mph in 120 feet, and the EVO MR stops from 80 mph in 200 ft. Again, the Pirelli Corsa tires are helping here, but numbers are numbers. Heat did become an issue after several stops, but pedal modulation before everything overheated was very good.

For power, the Saleen N2O Focus relies on a dead stock 2.3-liter DOHC four that Ford calls the PZEV and rates at 152 hp at 5750 rpm and 155 lb-ft of torque at 4250 rpm. Then Saleen installs a direct-port 75-hp wet nitrous system from Nitrous Pro Flow with a 10-pound bottle mounted in the cargo hold. Hence the name of the car.

But there's a catch. Although all the nitrous hardware is installed, it's not hooked up, and the bottle is empty. Saleen delivers the car "nitrous ready." And here's the catch. Once you hook it up, which Saleen says will take about an hour, your engine warranty is void. Too bad, because it works. Check out the acceleration numbers.

In an attempt to keep the car's engine in one piece, the nitrous system is engineered to kick in at wide-open throttle above 3000 rpm only, and shuts down just before redline in an attempt to keep the engine from getting spray without enough fuel.

Without the spray this car is slow. Its engine is smooth and surprisingly torquey around town, but it's slow. Even slamming through the Saleen's five-speed manual (a four-speed automatic is optional) like Dick Landy doesn't help. Nitrous off we recorded a zero-to-60 time of 8.2 seconds and a quarter-mile pass of 16.1 at 84.3 mph. Juice on, things improved righteously, however. Our best time was a 14.6-second pass at 95.6 mph. Zero to 60 improved almost two full seconds to 6.3. Saleen says the car, which only weighs 2,620 pounds, should run a 14.0 quarter mile with the nitrous hooked up, but we couldn't manage it, even with a fresh clutch.

Another change for 2005 is a switch to a 2.0-liter engine, which Ford rates at only 138 hp, but Saleen says its exhaust and unique reflash of the car's ECU gets the power back up to the 152 hp of the 2.3 liter in our test car.

Overall, this car performs well-very well-but it's expensive. For the money we'd rather the consumer get more substantial engine mods with a good warranty and more complete brake system instead of the custom floor mats, the standard Saleen key fob and an Eagle One detail kit. But that's just us.

Steve Saleen has produced more than 8,000 complete and EPA-certified vehicles since 1984, more than any other specialty manufacturer. So he's no dummy. He knows what the people want.

Hey, we liked it.

2004 Saleen N2O FocusBase Price: $25,999 EngineType: Inline four, aluminum block and headValvetrain: DOHC, four valves per cylinderDisplacement: 2261ccBore x Stroke: 3.44 in x 3.70 inCompression Ratio: 9.7:1Claimed Crank Hp: 151 hp @ 5750 rpmClaimed Crank Torque: 154 lb-ft @ 4250 rpmMeasured Wheel Hp: 133 hp @ 5800 rpmMeasured Wheel Torque: 139 lb-ft @ 4200 rpmMeasured Wheel Hp (NOS): 198 hp @ 5500 rpmMeasured Wheel Torque (NOS): 226 lb-ft @ 3600 rpmRedline: 6000 rpm

DrivetrainLayout: Transverse front engine, front-wheel drive

TransmissionGear Ratios 1st Gear: 3.417:12nd Gear: 2.136:13rd Gear: 1.448:14th Gear: 1.128:15th Gear: 0.767:1Final drive: 3.410:1Differential: Open

SuspensionFront: Saleen N2 Racecraft struts, 1.25-inch anti-roll bar, urethane bushingsRear: Saleen N2 Racecraft shocks, .98-inch anti-roll bar, urethane bushings,

BrakesFront:13-inch vented and slotted discs, four-piston calipersRear: Stock drums

Wheels and TiresWheels: 16x7-inch TSW RevosTires: 215/40R-17 Pirelli P Zero Corsa

PerformanceAcceleration:Nitrous off Nitrous on0-30 mph:2.8 sec.2.6 sec.0-60 mph:8.2 sec.6.3 sec.Quarter-Mile Time:16.1 sec.14.6 sec.Quarter-Mile Speed:84.3 mph 95.6 mphHandlingLateral Grip (200-ft. skidpad): .97gSlalom Speed (700-ft. slalom): 73.1 mph

Braking80-0 stopping distance: 194 ft.70-0 stopping distance: 148 ft.60-0 stopping distance: 108 ft.




The Future of the Focus, The 2009 Focus:

----------------------

heres something i found from mike a.k.a b161991sir

Quote:
General Specifications Item Specification
Engine
Displacement 2.0L
No. of cylinders 4
Bore/stroke 87.5/83.1
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Oil pressure (hot @ 2,000 rpm) 200-268 kPa (29-39 psi)
Belt tension Refer to Section 303-05.
Oil capacity 3.9L + 0.38L (4.1 qt + 0.4 qt) with filter
Cylinder Block
Cylinder bore diameter 87.5-87.53 mm (3.444-3.445 in)
Cylinder bore maximum out-of-round 0.008 mm (0.0003 in)
Main bearing bore diameter 57.020-57.038 mm (2.244-2.245 in)
Head gasket surface flatness 0.1 mm/general 0.05 mm/200 x 200 (0.004 in/general) (0.0019 in/7.87 x 7.87)
Piston
Diameter (1) 87.5-87.51 mm (3.444-3.445 in)
Diameter (2) 87.51-87.52 mm (3.4452-3.4456 in)
Diameter (3) 87.52-87.53 mm (3.444-3.446 in)
Piston-to-bore clearance 0.025-0.045 mm (0.0009-0.0017 in)
Ring groove width — top 1.203-1.205 mm (0.0473-0.0474 in)
Ring groove width — 2nd 1.17-1.19 mm (0.0.460-0.0468 in)
Ring groove width — oil 2.501-2.503 mm (0.0984-0.0985 in)
Piston skirt coating thickness 0.008-0.020 mm (0.0003-0.0007 in)
Piston Pin
Diameter 20.995-21.0 mm (0.8266-0.8268 in)
Length 59.6-60.4 mm (2.346-2.377 in)
Piston-to-pin clearance 0.008-0.016 mm (0.0003-0.0006 in)
Pin-to-rod clearance Press fit
Cylinder Head
Valve lift @ zero lash (exhaust) 7.7 mm (0.30 in)
Valve lift @ zero lash (intake) 8.8 mm (0.35 in)
Valve guide diameter 5.509-5.539 mm (0.216-0.218 in)
Valve seat width — intake/exhaust 0.99-1.84 mm (0.038-0.072 in)
Valve seat angle 45 degrees
Valve seat runout 0.075 mm (0.0029 in)
Valve lash adjuster bore diameter 31.00-31.03 mm (1.220-1.221 in)
Cam bore diameter 25.015-25.040 mm (0.984-0.985 in)
Valve
Valve head diameter — intake 34.85-35.15 mm (1.372-1.383 in)
Valve head diameter — exhaust 29.85-30.15 mm (1.175-1.187 in)
Valve stem diameter — intake 5.470-5.485 mm (0.2153-0.2159 in)
Valve stem diameter — exhaust 5.465-5.480 mm (0.2151-0.2157 in)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance — intake 0.0027 mm (0.0001 in)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance — exhaust 0.0029 mm (0.00011 in)
Valve face runout 0.05 mm (0.001 in)
Valve face angle 45 degrees
Valve Spring — Compression Pressure
Intake and exhaust (installed) 17.5 kg (38.667 lbs)
Intake (valve open) 8.9 mm (0.35 in) of lift 44 kg (97.032 lbs)
Exhaust (valve open) 7.4 mm (0.29 in) of lift 42 kg (93.338 lbs)
Free length 44.92 mm (1.768 in)
Assembled height 37.9 mm (1.492 in)
Crankshaft
Main bearing journal diameter 51.980-52.000 mm (2.046-2.047 in)
Production repair 51.730-51.750 mm (2.036-2.037 in)
Main bearing clearance 0.019-0.035 mm (0.0007-0.0013 in)
Connecting rod journal diameter 49.980-50.000 mm (1.967-1.968 in)
Production repair 49.730-49.750 mm (1.957-1.958 in)
End play 0.22-0.43 mm (0.008-0.016 in)
Rings
Width — top 1.17-1.185 mm (0.0460-0.0466 in)
Width — 2nd 1.197-1.199 mm (0.0471-0.0472 in)
Width — oil 2.38-2.45 mm (0.093-0.096 in)
Ring gap (in bore) — top 0.16-0.31 mm (0.006-0.012 in)
Ring gap (in bore) — 2nd 0.33-0.48 mm (0.012-0.018 in)
Ring gap (in bore) — oil 0.2-0.7 mm
(0.007-0.027 in)
Valve Tappet
Diameter 30.97-30.98 mm (1.2192-1.2196 in)
Tappet-to-valve clearance — intake 0.22- 0.28 mm (0.008-0.011 in)
Tappet-to-valve clearance — exhaust 0.27-0.33 mm (0.010-0.013 in)
Tappet-to-bore clearance 0.02-0.06 mm (0.0007-0.0023 in)
Camshaft
Lobe lift — intake 8.24999 mm (0.324 in)
Lobe lift — exhaust 7.80007 mm (0.307 in)
Runout (1)a 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
Thrust clearance 0.09-0.24 mm (0.003-0.009 in)
Journal diameter 24.96-24.98 mm (0.982-0.983 in)
Journal-to-bore clearance 0.035-0.080 mm (0.001-0.003 in)
Connecting Rod
Bearing clearance 0.027-0.052 mm
(0.001-0.002 in)
Bearing thickness 1.496-1.520 mm (0.058-0.059 in)
Crank bore diameter 53.025-53.045 mm (2.087-2.088 in)
Pin bore diameter 20.965-20.985 mm (0.825-0.826 in)
Length (center to center) 154.8 mm (6.094 in)
Side clearance 1.95-3.05 mm (0.076-0.120 in)
Axial clearance 0.14-0.36 mm (0.005-0.014 in)

a No. 3 Journal — Supported by No. 1 and No. 5 journals.


General Specifications Item Specification
Engine
Displacement 2.3L
No. of cylinders 4
Bore/stroke 87.5/94.0
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Oil pressure (hot @ 2,000 rpm) 200-268 kPa (29-39 psi)
Belt tension Refer to Section 303-05.
Oil capacity 3.9L + 0.38L (4.1 qt + 0.4 qt) with filter
Cylinder Block
Cylinder bore diameter 87.5-87.53 mm (3.444-3.446 in)
Cylinder bore maximum out-of-round 0.008 mm (0.0003 in)
Main bearing bore diameter 57.020-57.038 mm (2.244-2.245 in)
Head gasket surface flatness 0.1 mm/general 0.05 mm/200 x 200 (0.003 in./general) (0.0019 in./7.87 x 7.87)
Piston
Diameter (1) 87.5-87.51 mm (3.444-3.445 in)
Diameter (2) 87.51-87.52 mm (3.4452-3.4456 in)
Diameter (3) 87.52-87.53 mm (3.4456-3.4460 in)
Piston-to-bore clearance 0.025-0.045 mm (0.0009-0.0017 in)
Ring groove width — top 1.203-1.205 mm (0.0473-0.0474 in)
Ring groove width — 2nd 1.17-1.19 mm (0.0460-0.0468 in)
Ring groove width — oil 2.501-2.503 mm (0.0984-0.0985 in)
Piston skirt coating thickness 0.008-0.020 mm (0.0003-0.0007 in)
Piston Pin
Diameter 20.995-21.0 mm (0.8265-0.8267 in)
Length 59.6-60.4 mm (2.346-2.377 in)
Piston-to-pin clearance 0.008-0.016 mm (0.0003-0.0006 in)
Pin-to-rod clearance Press fit
Cylinder Head
Valve lift @ zero lash (exhaust) 7.4 mm (0.30 in)
Valve lift @ zero lash (intake) 7.9 mm (0.31 in)
Valve guide diameter 5.509-5.539 mm (0.216-0.218 in)
Valve seat width — intake/exhaust 0.99-1.84 mm (0.038-0.072 in)
Valve seat angle 45 degrees
Valve seat runout 0.075 mm (0.0029 in)
Valve lash adjuster bore diameter 31.00-31.03 mm (1.220-1.221 in)
Cam bore diameter 25.015-25.040 mm (0.984-0.985 in)
Valve
Valve head diameter — intake 34.85-35.15 mm (1.372-1.383 in)
Valve head diameter — exhaust 29.85-30.15 mm (1.175-1.187 in)
Valve stem diameter — intake 5.470-5.485 mm (0.2153-0.2159 in)
Valve stem diameter — exhaust 5.465-5.480 mm (0.2151-0.2157 in)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance — intake 0.0027 mm (0.00010 in)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance — exhaust 0.0029 mm (0.00011 in)
Valve face runout 0.05 mm (0.0019 in)
Valve face angle 45 degrees
Valve Spring — Compression Pressure
Intake and exhaust (installed) 17.5 kg (38.667 lb)
Intake (valve open) 8.9 mm (0.35 in) of lift 44 kg (97.032 lb)
Exhaust (valve open) 7.4 mm (0.29 in) of lift 42 kg (93.338 lb)
Free length 44.92 mm (1.768 in)
Assembled height 37.9 mm (1.492 in)
Crankshaft
Main bearing journal diameter 51.980-52.000 mm (2.046-2.047 in)
Production repair 51.730-51.750 mm (2.036-2.037 in)
Main bearing clearance 0.019-0.035 mm (0.0007-0.0013 in)
Connecting rod journal diameter 49.980-50.000 mm (1.967-1.968 in)
Production repair 49.730-49.750 mm (1.957-1.958 in)
End play 0.22-0.43 mm (0.008-0.016 in)
Rings
Width — top 1.17-1.185 mm (0.0460-0.0466 in)
Width — 2nd 1.197-1.199 mm (0.0471-0.0472 in)
Width — oil 2.38-2.45 mm (0.093-0.096 in)
Ring gap (in bore) — top 0.16-0.31 mm (0.006-0.012 in)
Ring gap (in bore) — 2nd 0.33-0.48 mm (0.012-0.018 in)
Ring gap (in bore) — oil 0.2-0.7 mm
(0.007-0.027 in)
Valve Tappet
Diameter 30.97-30.98 mm (1.2192-1.2196 in)
Tappet-to-valve clearance — intake 0.22- 0.28 mm (0.008-0.011 in)
Tappet-to-valve clearance — exhaust 0.27-0.33 mm (0.010-0.013 in)
Tappet-to-bore clearance 0.02-0.06 mm (0.0007-0.0023 in)
Camshaft
Lobe lift — intake 8.24999 mm (0.324 in)
Lobe lift — exhaust 7.80007 mm (0.307 in)
Runout (1)a 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
Thrust clearance 0.09-0.24 mm (0.003-0.009 in)
Journal diameter 24.96-24.98 mm (0.982-0.983 in)
Journal-to-bore clearance 0.035-0.080 mm (0.001-0.003 in)
Connecting Rod
Bearing clearance 0.027-0.052 mm
(0.001-0.002 in)
Bearing thickness 1.496-1.520 mm (0.058-0.059 in)
Crank bore diameter 53.025-53.045 mm (2.087-2.088 in)
Pin bore diameter 20.965-20.985 mm (0.825-0.826 in)
Length (center to center) 154.8 mm (6.094 in)
Side clearance 1.95-3.05 mm (0.076-0.120 in)
Axial clearance 0.14-0.36 mm (0.005-0.014 in)

a No. 3 Journal — Supported by No. 1 and No. 5 journals.


General Specifications Item Specification
Motorcraft Metal Surface Cleaner ZC-21 WSE-M5B392-A
Silicone Gasket Remover ZC-30 —
Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep ZC-31 —
Silicone Gasket and Sealant TA-30 WSE-M4G323-A4
Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP (US); Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12 (Canada); or equivalent WSS-M2C930-A
Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent (US only) VC-7-B (US); CVC-7-A (Canada); or equivalent (yellow color) WSS-M97B51-A1
Multi-Purpose Grease XG-4 and/or XL-5 ESB-M1C93-B
Thread Sealant with PTFE TA-24 WSK-M2G350-A2
High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A ESA-M1C198-A
Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectic Compound XG-3-A ESE-M1C17-A



Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in
Camshaft bearing capsa — — —
Coolant outlet bolts 10 — 89
Cylinder head boltsa — — —
Intake manifold bolts 18 13 —
Flywheel boltsa — — —
Pressure plate bolts 27 20 —
Flexplate boltsa — — —
Torque converter-to-flexplate nuts 35 26 —
Crankshaft pulley bolta — — —
Crankshaft position (CKP) sensora — — —
Crankshaft oil seal retainer boltsa — — —
A/C compressor mounting bolts 25 18 —
A/C manifold tube bolt 21 15 —
Oil drain plug 28 21 —
Oil pan boltsa — — —
Oil pan-to-bellhousing boltsa — — —
Oil level indicator tube bolt(s) 10 — 89
Oil pump screen and cover assembly 10 — 89
Oil pressure sensor 15 11 —
Oil filter adapter bolts 25 18 —
Oil pump-to-engine block boltsa — — —
Oil pump sprocket bolt 25 18 —
Oil pump chain tensioner bolts 10 — 89
Oil pump chain guide bolts 10 — 89
Knock sensor (KS) 20 15 —
Rear transaxle mounting nut 133 98 —
Motor mount nuts 90 66 —
Motor mount bracket bolts 48 35 —
Transaxle roll-restrictor bolts 48 35 —
Engine-to-bellhousing bolts 48 35 —
Starter motor mounting bolts 25 18 —
Starter B+ cable 12 9 —
Starter relay 5 — 44
Coolant pump bolts 10 — 89
Coolant pump pulley bolts 20 15 —
Engine front cover boltsa — — —
Camshaft sprocket bolt 72 53 —
Valve cover boltsa — — —
Engine lifting eye bolts 45 33 —
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve assembly bolts 20 15 —
EGR tube nut 55 41 —
Valve cover retainers 10 — 89
Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) and catalyst monitor sensor wire connector bracket nuts 25 18 —
Bellhousing-to-engine bolts 48 35 —
Bellhousing-to-engine stud bolt 48 35 —
Engine-to-bellhousing stud bolt 48 35 —
Engine front cover-to-oil pan boltsa — — —
Power distribution harness eyelet nut 10 — 89
Catalytic converter-to-cylinder head nutsa — — —
Catalytic converter-to-muffler assembly nuts 47 35 —
Catalytic converter support bracket 47 35 —
Catalytic converter heat shield bolts 10 — 89
Generator mounting bolts 25 18 —
Generator heat shield 18 13 —
Generator B+ cable 8 — 71
Generator B+ cable retainer 25 18 —
Radio interference capacitor bracket 10 — 89
Radio interference capacitor ground 10 — 89
Thermostat housing assembly bolts 10 — 89
Coolant expansion tank bolt 10 — 89
Block heater (if equipped) 21 15 —
Power steering pump mounting bolts 25 18 —
Power steering pressure (PSP) tube nut 65 48 —
PSP tube bracket nut 11 8 —
Engine ground cable bolt 48 35 —
Accelerator control snow shield 10 — 89
Timing chain guide bolts 10 — 89
Timing chain tensioner bolts 10 — 89
Engine plug bolt 20 15 —
Crankcase ventilation cover assembly bolts 10 — 89
Air cleaner outlet tube clamps 4 — 35
Accelerator cable bracket 10 — 89
Coil-on-plug retaining bolt 10 — 89
Accessory drive belt tensioner bolt 25 18 —
Accessory drive belt idler bolt 25 18 —
Cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor 12 9 —
Spark plugs 12 9 —
Fuel rail bolt 25 18 —
Stabilizer bar 55 41 —
Tie-rod end nut 40 30 —
Front brake caliper 28 21 —
Upper strut mount nuts 30 22 —
Suspension arm ball joint bolt 63 46 —
Intermediate shaft bracket-to-engine bolt 40 30 —
Intermediate shaft mounting bracket bolt 25 18 —
Catalytic converter nuts 55 41 —
Catalytic converter heat shield bolts 11 8 —
Catalytic converter support bracket bolts 47 35 —
Catalytic converter-to-exhaust system nuts 47 35 —


Next on the list is the Intake thread:


[B]With the recent bloom of many threads about cold air intakes for the duratec i thought i would make a thread for them:

Cold Air Intakes for the Duratec Focus:

Focussport:

FocusSport™ 2.0L & 2.3L Duratec Cool-Flo Race™ Air Intake System
This is a true "cold air" intake system that situates the filter in the lower front region of the car, away from ALL engine heat. The Cool-Flo Race system utilizes 3" mandrel bent steel tubing along with laser cut bracketry. Other features include all tig-welded construction and coated with silver powdercoat.

$219.95 - 8.4HP


K&N typhoon Short Ram:

Built for performance and show, the Typhoon™ Air Intake System is a free-flowing mandrel-bent aluminum tube induction system designed to fit many sport compact performance vehicles. Typhoon intakes come in one of three designs; cold air intakes (CA), short ram intakes (SR), or complete cold air (CCA) intakes which can be configured as either a cold air intake or a short ram intake. Some Typhoon's have high quality finish options including polished aluminum (part ends with TP), powder coated blue (part ends in TB), powder coated red (part ends in TR), and powder coated silver (ends in TS) among others. K&N intake systems replace your vehicle's restrictive factory air filter and air intake housing. K&N intakes are designed to dramatically reduce intake restriction allowing more air flow to your engine. More air means more usable power and acceleration throughout the engine's RPM range.

$270.95 - 5.24HP


Steeda: (this is technically a short ram intake)

Focus Owners - Be Advised: this is not just any cold air intake kit, this is a Steeda Autosports cold air intake kit. What does that mean for you?

It enhances performance
It looks great
It installs easily
It's your best value
Our Dyno, below, showed six more ponies at the wheels of our Executive Cruiser, and nearly four more pound feet of torque with our Cold Air Kit for the Focus Duratec engine - without re calibration or tuning the engine further. Should easily make even more power on modified engines as well.

The kit includes a precisely machined billet aluminum MAF sensor and handsome stainless steel guard with the stylish Steeda logo laser cut into it, along with a Steeda life-time, reusable filter and all the hardware needed to replace the original factory intake.

Installation is a snap - simple hand tools are all you need to do the job in about an hour, following along with the illustrated instructions provided. When you're done, you'll find that the 'wow' factor under your hood has gone way up as a result of your efforts.

And when you compare this kit to others available, the value becomes clear. Why settle for a glorified hunk of pvc pipe and a new filter element, when you can have a brand new, billet aluminum CNC machined MAF sensor, a reusable filer with lifetime warranty, and a stylish, stainless steel guard instead? Get show and go for the same buck - that's the Steeda Autosports formula for high performance value.

$206.96 - 6.3 HP


K&N typhoon:

K&N now offers it's popular Typhoon intake for the Focus with the 2.0/2.3L Duratec engines. Polished or powder-coated tube adds a little "bling-bling" under the hood as it helps to increase horsepower. Also helps to increase gas mileage...if you can "keep your foot out of it!" You'll love the increased performance and that "high-performance sound", you may not be able to resist putting a smile on your face every time you put your foot down.

Kit comes with either a polished or powder-coated tube, world famous K&N cone filter, K&N Drycharger to help repel water, connector, hardware and allen wrench to help with the installation.

209.95$ - N/A


K&N FIPK 2:

The Generation II FIPKฎ is K&N's ultimate performance product, designed to increase power by as much as 10%. Most FIPK's are street legal in all 50 US states and come with a Million Mile Limited Warranty. K&N intake systems replace your vehicle's restrictive factory air filter and air intake housing. K&N intakes are designed to dramatically reduce intake restriction as they smooth and straighten air flow. This allows your vehicle's engine to inhale a larger volume of air than the OEM air filter assembly. More air means more usable power and acceleration throughout the engine's RPM range. The filters on these kits are washable and reusable. Most of our intake kits are relatively easy to install using tools commonly available

$291.69 - 11.85HP


AEM:

AEM pioneered the Cold Air induction system for sport compact cars in 1994.

A Cold Air intake system relocates the filter outside of the engine compartment to deliver the coolest air inlet temperatures possible. Cooler air carries more oxygen, which translates into a more intense explosion in the combustion chamber to create more horesepower and torque. But that's only part of the power equation. Tuning the inlet pipe in length and diameter to match the engine's resonance helps move more air to the cylinders (think of your engine as a big air pump), and no company on the market can tune an inlet as well as we can. We also monitor fuel trim correction factors and all OBDII sensors during R&D to eliminate leaning the engine out and/or throwing a check engine light.

Our Cold Air systems are dyno-proven and tested against the competition to create more useable power than any other system of their kind. Every AEM Cold Air induction system features the highest standards of construction and we are so confident in their fit and performance that we guarantee them for the life of your vehicle. All AEM Cold Air systems are either 50-state legal or pending (excluding "Off Road" and "Hybrid" systems), include a lifetime DRYFLOW Synthetic air filter and come with a limited lifetime warranty.

$291.41


K&N FIPK:

A sister product to our 57 Series FIPK, our 63 Series Intake Kits or AirChargerฎ Intakes are built for many different vehicles and represent a dramatic improvement over a K&N O/E replacement filter alone. They enjoy a faster speed to market than our 57 Series kits due to their pending CARB status. These intakes use only non-metallic rotationally molded tubes that can reduce intake air temperature and decrease intake sound over a metal tube. Restriction can exist BETWEEN an air filter and the engine reducing the benefit of a K&N Air Filter. The weakest link in the airflow "chain" robs a vehicle of its natural horsepower. Often that weak point is the factory air path leading to the Engine. K&N Air Intake Kits virtually eliminate air path restriction by replacing the air filter and the entire air path to the engine. The aerodynamically engineered tube drives a massive amount of air into an engine, which translates into POWER. 63 Series Intake Kits are not legal for street use in some U.S. states.

$273.95 - 11.85HP


Cosworth:

Cosworth Roller Throttle Assembly (YD8070)
For maximum power and performance, Cosworth has developed barrel throttles with an integrated manifold for the Duratec engine. This F1 style throttle provides complete control with un-restricted flow at full throttle. Cast from heat treated aluminium with CNC machined barrels supported by sealed bearings. Shown with optional carbon fiber air box and filter kit KK3599

$2040.00 - N/A


Cosworth:

Cosworth also had a Cold air intake for the duratec focus. but they are no longer being sold, you may be able to find a used one, they come with a K&N style air filter, replace the factory MAF tube, it is all anodized blue, and you can expect to see a 10 - 11hp increase.


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Old 03-25-2009, 06:57 PM   #2
honhon
Focus Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Fan#: 24778
Location: ., United States
What I Drive: a better car than a focus.

Posts: 8,506
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Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (21)
Marcy-Motorsport:

This unit is a 2 piece unit, and resembles the focussport CAI very closely... it comes in variety of colors... but it seems walter has updated and changed his website again, and is not listing it... but you can maybe get it from him still at www.marcymotorsport.com or a used one.

$180.00 - 10 - 11hp


F2 Focus:

F2 Cold Air Intake Duratec is back and will be available by December 15, 2007! You can preorder it if you like to make sure you are on the list before they are sold out. We bring back our original design which yielded 10whp on the dyno! With the addition of K&N air filter or outerwares as an filter option this is by far the best priced intake in the market for the Duratec Focus. The intake will only be available in powdercoat black finish.

$135.00 - 10hp


HPS


Description

HPS has in house Dynapack to ensure every HPS intake increase the horsepower, torque and improve the gas Mileage
The HPS cold air intake can help your engine to suck in more cooler air resulting in better throttle response and higher explosive horsepower output
Featuring the 3-Ply reinforced SILICONE couplers/reducers, the HPS cold air intake kit provides stability even the vehicle is in an extreme driving condition


T-306 Aluminum Polished Intake pipe
Includes one HPS High Performance 3" Air Filter (Black Open-Top)
Includes all necessary mounting hardware, vacuum hoses and 3-ply silicone couplers/reducers
Includes One HPS License Frame
Includes TWO HPS Stickers
Includes Step-By-Step Installation instruction

Price - $229.99



Extrudabody

Kit comes with Manifold as seen, fuel rail and mounting hardware, Linkage system, TPS, and Loose TPS Harness. Does not come with Injectors! Rail is un drilled as well, $35 to drill the rail for you. Your choice of 45mm Straight ITB's or 45mm Tapered to 50mm ITB's. Includes our Standard Foam Filters as well. PRICE: $1,199.00


----


These prices are not exact, i searched and when i came across a price i copied it, C-F-M.com has pretty much almost all of these intakes for good prices, but you can purchase from where ever you want, if you find a good price.


----

*Cold Air Intake Pros:
-Cooler air brought in means denser air which = more power
-Bling Factor, having an intake tube snake down into the bay is liked by some
-Limited Heat soak

*Cold Air Intake Cons:
-Chance of Hydrolock (low, but its still there)
-Price, typically more expensive


----

*Short Ram Intake Pros:
-No chance of Hydrolock
-Bling Factor, having a big air filter in eyes view is liked by some
-Typically cheaper

*Short Ram Intake Cons:
-Very absorbent to heat soak(this is where the air filter sucks in warm air from the engine bay, thus loosing power)
-Less horsepower/torque


----

*Pros for ITB's (cosworth)
-Most N/A hp/tq available
-Huge Bling factory (everyone usually loves ITB's)
-Quality, Cosworth is 2nd to none

*Cons for ITB's(cosworth)
-Price
-Makes N20 abit harder
-Makes S/C and Turbo near impossible
-Makes tuning alot longer/harder


Air Filters for Your CAI/SRI:

With our CAI/SRI's there are basically 2 options, the ITG with the focussport, or the K&N, all of the other intakes use a K&N or rebadged K&N filter, you can purchase the ITG or a Cone style K&N seperately, you can easily find the K&N cones, but focussport does sell the ITG "cone" by itself.


From Focussport.com

Quote:
About ITG Air Filters
The Best Air Filters Ever Made, Period.

ITG's current range is the product of almost 19 years of constantly striving for the best designs, made from the best materials with the best manufacturing methods. Whether you're racing, rallying, cruising or shopping, you can be sure nobody makes a better filter.

The best proving ground for any performance product has always been motorsport, that's why top teams from WRC/F2 Rally Cars to Super Touring and Formula 1, make ITG their first choice in air filtration.

WHY ITG?

The technology of 'Reticulated Polyester Foam' allows itg greater flexibility in design and performance than paper or cotton gauze style filters. itg was probably the first company to manufacture a truly durable, high performance foam-based production air filter.

Why foam? Because, compared to paper or other filter technologies, reticulated polyester foam achieves optimum performance against three key criteria:

1. Maximum Air Flow - the filters ability to allow air to pass through without causing a large pressure-drop.

2. Cleaning Efficiency - the capacity of a filter to arrest a high proportion of the dust carried in the air, whilst feeding the engine clean air.

3. Dust Load-up Tolerance - the capability to absorb a large amount of dust, without reducing air flow capacity.

With the unique Tri-Foam System, which uses various thicknesses of finer or coarser foams, these factors can be varied for different applications.

Tri-foam gives us the flexibility to produce air filters to exact specifications and, where high flow rates are possible, we can tailor filters to arrest even the slightest dust traces.

What's more, because we use the very latest adhesive technologies to bond the foam layers, itg filter assemblies are totally resistant to water, fumes, oils and fuels - including the exotic brews used in racing.
----

From K&N.com:

Quote:
We believe the primary function of an air filter is to deliver both high airflow and superior dirt protection. We design our air filters to provide minimum restriction allowing high airflow into an engine. In the vast majority of cases increased airflow will increase engine performance measured by horsepower and throttle response (torque). The performance benefits of maximum airflow are clear, compelling and well documented. That is why so many professional racers are willing to run expensive vehicles with no air filter, as opposed to installing a disposable air filter. They are seeking the additional horsepower and throttle response needed to win the race.

We design our air filters to provide superior filtration of the contaminants that can harm your engine while maximizing the airflow characteristics of the filter in question. The ability of an air filter to protect your engine is generally measured in accordance with testing procedure ISO 5011. We subject a sample of our filter designs to this test procedure using Coarse Test Dust, which includes particles ranging in size from less than 5.5 microns to 176 microns. As a point of reference, a human hair is approximately 50 microns in diameter. The result of the above test procedure is a specific air filtration efficiency number. This efficiency number represents the percentage of test dust retained by the filter and thereby kept out of an engine. Our goal is to design our air filters to achieve maximum airflow while targeting overall filtration efficiency at 98%.

Because no two air filters are alike, the specific airflow and overall filtration efficiency will vary depending on the filter in question. However, you can rest assured that each air filter we sell, has been designed to achieve high air flow while providing superior filtration.

Both air flow and dirt protection are critical to engine performance. For this reason a consumer should always evaluate an air filter based on both its filtration efficiency and air flow capabilities. It is very easy to design an air filter that exhibits high airflow simply by reducing its filtration to unacceptable levels. As the “look” of a K&N air filter has become popular, many companies have begun offering products that copy that “look.” While imitation is said to be the sincerest form of flattery, our own testing has shown that many of these look-alike products do not provide a safe level of engine protection.

There are few areas more confusing than identifying dirt retention requirements when it comes to air filters. Most vehicle owner’s manuals remain silent on the point. In fact, few air filter manufacturers publish any information as to the filtration efficiency of their filters. This stands in marked contrast to oil and fuel filters where there is a relatively large amount of information regarding filtration requirements and capabilities. Studies have shown most engine wear is caused by particles 10 to 20 microns in size. K&N air filters, like most quality disposable air filters, provide excellent filtration of these particles.

To ensure our air filters provide a high level of dirt protection, we regularly test our air filter designs using the testing procedure described above. Those tests demonstrate K&N air filters generally achieve overall filtration efficiency in the range of 97% - 98%, while some of our air filter designs have achieved levels as high as 99%. The fact that our air filters at times reach overall filtration efficiencies as high as 99% while maintaining high airflow is a testament to the quality and capabilities of our oil impregnated cotton air filter medium.

On occasion we see “new” air filter media’s developed and sold under the premise they provide increased levels of dirt filtration. More often than not, as opposed to quoting specific efficiency numbers, this “increased protection” is described as increased dirt retention capacity, meaning the filter can hold more dirt before requiring replacement. Remember, K&N air filters have always provided a service life in excess of disposable filters and then only require cleaning and oiling for re-use.

We encourage customers to do their homework and be aware of the filtration capabilities of an air filter before they buy. Our own testing has revealed wide differences in filtering capabilities. We were surprised to see some disposable paper air filters with an overall filtration efficiency as low as 93%. We hope we have provided enough information to ensure consumers know what they are getting when they buy a K&N air filter.
----

those are just 2 quotes and alittle information on the 2 types of filters.

i hope this helps with any new people in their decision for the intake purchase for their car.

[/B]

*2008* Ford Focus Intake's

[B] Well, with the growing number of Duratec performance members, owning and bringing in the 08 for Performance Mods, usually everyone typically starts with an Intake.
As of Right now, there are very limited options, and I will go through them below:

_____________________________________________

---K&N Replacement Filter---

Often these Go also by Drop-In filters, as they require NO modification to be installed.
2008 has an advantage over the earlier Model duratecs, as the earlier models have a 100k non-serviceable filter from the factory.
Wheres in 2008, they have a serviceable filter, which allows it to be replaced by a "drop-in" filter


K&N’s replacement air filters are designed to increase horsepower and acceleration while providing excellent filtration. We make over 1,200 different replacement air filters for virtually every vehicle on the road. These filters are washable and reusable and are custom designed to fit into your existing factory air box. Their drop-in design means adding performance is simple. With most vehicles you simply remove the disposable air filter and replace it with a K&N. See applicable instruction sheet for details. Our stock replacement air filters for street vehicles are covered by our famous K&N Million-Mile Limited Warranty™ and will be THE LAST AIR FILTER YOUR VEHICLE WILL EVER NEED.

33-2401 Product Specifications
Product Style: Unique Air Filters
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.76 oz (23 ml)
Height: 1 in (25 mm)
Outside Length: 8.5 in (216 mm)
Outside Width: 7.813 in (198 mm)
Weight: 1 lb (0.4 kg)
Product Box Length: 11.69 in (297 mm)
Product Box Width: 10.38 in (264 mm)
Product Box Height: 1.88 in (48 mm)

33-2401 Price: $42.19, and usually typically net around 3 to 4hp.


---K&N 69 Series Typhoon Kit---


Built for performance and show, the Typhoon™ Air Intake System is a free-flowing mandrel-bent aluminum tube induction system designed to fit many sport compact performance vehicles. Typhoon intakes come in one of three designs; cold air intakes (CA), short ram intakes (SR), or complete cold air (CCA) intakes which can be configured as either a cold air intake or a short ram intake. Some Typhoon's have high quality finish options including polished aluminum (part ends with TP), powder coated blue (part ends in TB), powder coated red (part ends in TR), and powder coated silver (ends in TS) among others. K&N intake systems replace your vehicle's restrictive factory air filter and air intake housing. K&N intakes are designed to dramatically reduce intake restriction allowing more air flow to your engine. More air means more usable power and acceleration throughout the engine's RPM range.

69-3513TTK Product Specifications
Product Style: 69 Series Typhoon Kits
Estimated Horsepower Gain: 5.24 HP @ 5400 RPM
Color: Textured Black
Replacement Filter: RU-4950
CARB Exempt: No
System Type: Short-ram intake system
Weight: 7.2 lb (3.3 kg)
Product Box Length: 19.3 in (490 mm)
Product Box Width: 14.5 in (368 mm)
Product Box Height: 8.4 in (213 mm

69-3513TTK Price: $321.04 - 5.24hp


---Steeda Short Ram Intake---

Steeda calls it a Cold Air Intake on their website, but infact, it really is a short ram intake.


Steeda's new high flow air intake for the 2008 2.0L Ford Focus is 2 intakes in one all inclusive kit!

Our high flow cold air intake includes an insert allowing you to use it as a direct bolt on intake kit with no tuning required, or remove the insert to for even more airflow and combine it with a custom tune for the most powerful kit on the market for your Focus.

Steeda's cold air intake kit is also designed to use your stock air induction system, helping to take in cooler outside air!

Steeda's high flow intake also features a stainless steel heat shield and high flow cone style air filter for great airflow. Low intake air inlet temperatures can be accomplished with the heat shield and a provision to re-use your factory Ram air. Improved gas mileage will also be noticed!

We got an easy 7hp and 12ft/lbs of torque in mid range RPM's with peaks around 6hp and 5ft/lbs with the insert in place. More to be had with no insert and custom tuning.

$239.95




To read Specifics and information directly related to the filters these 2 use, please check out

http://www.knfilters.com

or for the Steeda

http://www.sbfilters.com



Next is the Fuel Economy thread:

All information was taken from:

Fuel Economy.Gov

Well with a certain and obvious (with gas prices) reason to talk about economy, I have decided to help out, and make a more singular source for the economy enthusiasts.

or MPG-Mongolars. lol

So here it goes!

----

All the information Sourced on this Post is from www.fueleconomy.gov, but feel free to add information, remember this is a discussion thread on Fuel economy, so please add all that you can!

Next I will List some helpful tips, on how to obtain and increase fuel mileage!


Drive Sensibly
Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and braking) wastes gas. It can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town. Sensible driving is also safer for you and others, so you may save more than gas money.
Fuel Economy Benefit: 5-33%
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.20-$1.31/gallon

Observe the Speed Limit
While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds), gas mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph.
You can assume that each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.30 per gallon for gas.
Observing the speed limit is also safer.
Fuel Economy Benefit: 7-23%
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.28-$0.91/gallon

Remove Excess Weight
Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your MPG by up to 2%. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones.
Fuel Economy Benefit: 1-2%/100 lbs
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.04-$0.08/gallon

Avoid Excessive Idling
Idling gets 0 miles per gallon. Cars with larger engines typically waste more gas at idle than do cars with smaller engines.

Use Cruise Control
Using cruise control on the highway helps you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, will save gas.

Use Overdrive Gears
When you use overdrive gearing, your car's engine speed goes down. This saves gas and reduces engine wear.

Note
Cost savings are based on an assumed fuel price of $3.96/gallon.



Next is a quick excerpt that can easily help in day to day life!



Combining errands into one trip saves you time and money. Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a longer multipurpose trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm. Trip planning ensures that traveling is done when the engine is warmed-up and efficient.
With a little planning, you can avoid retracing your route and reduce the distance you travel as well. You'll not only save fuel, but also reduce wear and tear on your car.

Commuting
If you can stagger your work hours to avoid peak rush hours, you'll spend less time sitting in traffic and consume less fuel.
If you own more than one vehicle, drive the one that gets the best gas mileage whenever possible.
Consider telecommuting (working from home) if your employer permits it.
If possible, take advantage of carpools and ride-share programs. You can cut your weekly fuel costs in half and save wear on your car if you take turns driving with other commuters. Many urban areas allow vehicles with multiple passengers to use special High Occupancy Vehicle (HOV) lanes.
Consider using public transit if it is available and convenient for you. The American Public Transit Transportation Association has links to information about public transportation in your state.


Traveling
A roof rack or carrier provides additional cargo space and may allow you to meet your needs with a smaller car. However, a loaded roof rack can decrease your fuel economy by 5 percent. Reduce aerodynamic drag and improve your fuel economy by placing items inside the trunk whenever possible.
Avoid carrying unneeded items, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 lbs in the trunk reduces a typical car's fuel economy by 1-2 percent.



And heres the section that we all love! Maintaining your vehicle properly!



Keep Your Engine Properly Tuned
Fixing a car that is noticeably out of tune or has failed an emissions test can improve its gas mileage by an average of 4 percent, though results vary based on the kind of repair and how well it is done.
Fixing a serious maintenance problem, such as a faulty oxygen sensor, can improve your mileage by as much as 40 percent.
Fuel Economy Benefit: 4%
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.16/gallon

Check & Replace Air Filters Regularly
Exempt except for 08+
Replacing a clogged air filter can improve your car's gas mileage by as much as 10 percent. Your car's air filter keeps impurities from damaging the inside of your engine. Not only will replacing a dirty air filter save gas, it will protect your engine.
Fuel Economy Benefit: up to 10%
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: up to $0.40/gallon


Keep Tires Properly Inflated

You can improve your gas mileage by around 3.3 percent by keeping your tires inflated to the proper pressure. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires. Properly inflated tires are safer and last longer.


Fuel Economy Benefit: up to 3%
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: up to $0.12/gallon


Use the Recommended Grade of Motor Oil
You can improve your gas mileage by 1-2 percent by using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil. For example, using 10W-30 motor oil in an engine designed to use 5W-30 can lower your gas mileage by 1-2 percent. Using 5W-30 in an engine designed for 5W-20 can lower your gas mileage by 1-1.5 percent. Also, look for motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.
Fuel Economy Benefit: 1-2%
Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.04-$0.08/gallon



Note: Cost savings are based on an assumed fuel price of $3.96/gallon.


Also! just because People advertise MPG this and MPG that! here are a couple quick facts about that marketing:

EPA tests are designed reflect "typical" driving conditions and driver behavior, but several factors can affect MPG significantly:
• How & Where You Drive
• Vehicle Condition & Maintenance
• Fuel Variations
• Vehicle Variations
• Engine Break-In
Therefore, the EPA ratings are a useful tool for comparing the fuel economies of different vehicles but may not accurately predict the average MPG you will get.
To find out what you can do to improve the fuel economy of your car, see Driving More Efficiently and Keeping Your Car in Shape.


and a quick question that I'm sure is on a few people's minds.

Question: What's up, and down, with gasoline prices lately?

EIA analysis of the petroleum market points to the cost of crude oil as the main contributor to the large run up in the first half of 2008 and the recent decline in retail gasoline prices.
The cost of crude oil accounts for about 74% of the gasoline pump price (see graphic on gasoline price components). The cost of crude oil for U.S. refiners reached a record high in early summer 2008 (as did retail gasoline prices) due mainly to high worldwide oil demand relative to supply. Other contributing factors included political events and conflicts in some major oil producing regions, and other factors.
EIA believes that the high prices for petroleum products and relatively weak economic conditions in the U.S. and other countries has helped to reduce demand and prices for crude oil. This has contributed to the recent decline in crude oil and retail gasoline prices.



I hope this clears up some questions, But I mainly did this to help center all of the Mileage and fuel threads to one local area, so that way we don't all have to go through a lot of different threads!

Good Luck on saving fuel, and keep posting!

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Old 03-25-2009, 06:59 PM   #3
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Ok, with the question of hydrolock on alot of people's minds ALOT, i thought i would make a Quick Thread on Informational Facts:

HydroLock Definition:

In automotive terminology, a hydrolock (short for hydraulic lock) is the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair.

Causes

It is relatively common when driving through floods, either where the water is above the level of the air intake or the vehicle's speed is excessive, creating a tall bow wave.

Hydrolocking is often a concern when consumers modify their engines with aftermarket intake systems (e.g. Cold air intake). A cold air intake typically locates the filter near the bottom of the engine compartment to gain access to colder air, which can also increase its chances of ingesting water should it be submerged.

Another reason for it to occur is in the event of the head gasket cracking or "blowing", which causes the radiator coolant to mix inside the combustion chamber.

Treatment

Regardless of the cause, treatment is the same. Removal of the spark plugs will allow access to the combustion chamber. By inserting an irrigation syringe fitted with a flexible plastic tube on the end, you can suck out the liquid that infiltrated the combustion chamber. Once all the fluid is removed, the chamber should be sprayed with a liberal coating of a water displacing lubricant such as WD40[citation needed], and allowed to sit until the remaining water has evaporated. Once the water or coolant has been removed, inspect the combustion chamber for rust. The best option would be to remove the head, but a borescope or small flashlight and mirror will also work. Light surface rust will be normal, but if you see any heavy corrosion, it should be gently removed, and vacuumed out of the chamber. After inspection, pour a tablespoon of assembly lube (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) or clean engine oil into each combustion chamber. Attach a socket to the crankshaft, and slowly rotate the engine through a few revolutions. (Make sure that you turn the engine in the proper direction, see a service manual for proper rotation direction.) If you hear any clanking, or harsh scraping, you should bring the engine to a competent mechanic. After verifying that the remaining systems are free of water (electrical, fuel delivery, air intake, distributor, etc.), re-install the spark plugs and wires, and attempt to start the engine.

Courtesy of Wikipedia

_________________________________________________________________


Hydrostatic lock, hydraulic lock or hydrolock occurs when liquids, typically water, enter an engine cylinder. This can occur from a coolant, oil or fuel leak, but the chief cause is drawing water into the engine through the air induction system (airbox & filter, ducting, throttle body or carburetor, intake manifold). Internal combustion engines (spark or compression ignition) operating on a two-stroke or four-stroke cycle must employ a compression stroke to compress the charge (usually an air/fuel mixture). Liquids are incompressible; the presence of a liquid in the engine cylinder during the compression stroke generates destructively high cylinder pressures.

Abnormally high cylinder pressures can bend and break pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, crankshafts and ruin bearings and can crack or break cylinder heads and engine blocks. Small amounts of liquids may pass through an engine cycle without damage, but volumes exceeding 40cc (1.4 fluid ounces, <3 tablespoons) will cause many engines to develop cylinder pressures well in excess of 1000psi. A larger volume of water, up to the combustion chamber volume (usually 60cc to 100cc), will generate increasingly high cylinder pressure during the completion of the compression stroke. Volumes of water which exceed the combustion chamber volume will "stop" a running engine through true hydrostatic lock. Something expensive always bends or breaks when this happens.

Hydrolock may occur while the engine is running, the work of the compression stroke being supplied by engine's rotational inertia. Or a liquid may leak into the cylinder while the engine is being stored; the work of the compression stroke will be supplied by the starter motor.

Hydrolock is not a new problem, but it only affected certain applications. Older American made cars, particularly with V-configuration engines, often employed an air intake location which was high in the engine compartment. Because of the reduced tendency of these older American cars to hydrolock, it has not been in the forefront of design consideration and is not a household term.

Most newer, fuel injected cars have the air intake located low in the engine compartment. The objective of this low air intake is to draw cool air into the engine. Unfortunately, when driving through sufficiently deep standing or splashing water, engine vacuum from the intake stroke will suck water into the engine, particularly if the intake is submerged.

The cost to repair hydrolock damage begins at about $1000.00, and only goes sky high from there. Repair bills in excess of $35,000 have been reported in high-end passenger cars. Racing engines can cost twice that amount. Many new cars have been recognized as having poor designs to prevent hydrolock. Even some Four-Wheel-Drive pickup trucks and SUV's have been identified as having particularly high incidence rates of hydrolock. Manufacturers' warranties do not cover hydrolock engine damage, stating that the cause of operator error. One SUV manufacturer states the maximum vehicle speed through standing water to be 5 mph; hydrolock occurring at speeds in excess of 5 mph is judged to be operator error. The repair may be covered by a vehicle's Collision/Comprehensive insurance.

Don't take our word for the causes and consequences of hydrolock. To the left are links to authoritative websites and individual tales of woe.

Courtesy of Prepsparkplugs.com

AEM has a Bypass Valve in production, here is excerpt from their site about the AEM Bypass Valve:

AEM is in the process of including diagrams in its Cold Air Induction System (CAS) instructions for Air Bypass Valve placement. In the mean time, if you receive a system without this information and are unsure as to where the Air Bypass Valve installs on your CAS, please contact AEM customer service at (310) 484-2322, extension 300 and we will provide information on proper placement of the valve.

Generally, the Air Bypass Valve installs along the upper section of the induction pipe, close to the throttle body. Do NOT install it too close to the Inlet Air Temp sensor, and NEVER install an air bypass valve in between a throttle body and Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). Be sure to check for clearance for the width of the Air Bypass Valve during installation, and to use the provided template that comes with your Air Bypass Valve to remove the proper amount of material from the induction pipe.

NEVER use an Air Bypass Valve on a forced induction vehicle as it will damage the valve and could lead to engine damage.

_________________________________________________________________

SO, with that said, there isnt a Logical place to install the Bypass valve in the duratec intake system...

Best tip for avoding hydrolock is to drive smart, and drive safe.

If it seems too deep, then dont drive threw it, also throttle control, If you have to go threw a deep puddle or one that'll create alot of water under the front of the car, drive into it with enough momentum to allow you to lift the throttle and allow the engine as little vaccumm as possible to avoid sucking up water.

I hope this helps people in the informative facts and information on Hydrolock.

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Old 03-25-2009, 07:04 PM   #4
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Hilbish Ford is also an authorized Steeda dealer. Mike can get you good prices on Steeda parts.
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:15 PM   #5
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holy crap thats a lot...pretty much if someone asks anything aftermarket wise about the dura...this is the thread...

btw Saleen's came with momo seats?...hmmmmm
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:18 PM   #6
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sticky

also, the hps intake for reference can be found approx $130 on ebay... its pretty much always listed by multiple people and the f2 is available now.
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:19 PM   #7
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its in the stickie thread, i already updated it.
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:21 PM   #8
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Wow this is amazing now I have something to read when I get more of a chance! Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:53 PM   #9
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Wow Good job yet again honhon. If any one asks a question about any thing I will refurr them to this page.... I just had my GF read it because she asked me what I want for dinner...lol

Then I asked her a question...
ME:" What did the five fingers say to the face....?"
HER: " IDK.. what?"
ME:....*SLAP*
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:43 PM   #10
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so you dont have a gf anymore? lol
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