Clunking rear shock mounts: Solved?

[S0C0nFused]

Originally Posted by Geezer

In most cases you're suppose to "slightly" compress the bushings and then stop tightening.

Again, Its a question of judgement/experience (of which I am lacking on both counts). I put my rear top shock nuts on and as Geezer said, only enough to "slightly" compress the bushings. There is only about 1/4" of thread showing over the nut. When I bounce the car up and down I can see the bushing plate flex a bit. Did I do it right?
Thanks

[S0C0nFused]

Originally Posted by WD40

On my recent Koni damper/spring install, I tried something completely different.
I ditched the factory parts and used poly bushings.
No noise, and nice and tight.

I don't have a pic, but this is what I used.
From top down:
1) Koni supplied lock nut
2) Washer
3) Poly bushing
4) Car body-shock mounting hole
5) Poly bushing
6) Koni supplied washer

The bushings are compressed about 1/8 inch each when torqued to 20 ft-lb.
I'm really liking this setup so far.
It got rid of a bunch of funky noises I had out back, and as mentioned, the suspension is really tight now.
It reacts very quickly to steering inputs.

If/when I can find a pic, I'll post it up.

Can this be done with the FR shocks? Get that pic yet WD?
I have been trying all afternoon to get the upper mounts adjusted correctly. Its not happening.

[CaysE]

You need to play with it a bit. Too tight or too loose and it'll clunk.

[S0C0nFused]

Originally Posted by CaysE

You need to play with it a bit. Too tight or too loose and it'll clunk.

Ref what you said about the upper arm bushings. I had the SPF adjustable upper arms installed. Wunder if they got those in right and tight? Sick of dorking with the shocks. Made a rubber mount but want to go with WD40 idea. Only where do I get the bushing and washers?

[S0C0nFused]

Update: I made some temporary semi-solid shock mounts. These got rid of a lot of the problem, and allowed me to find one major one which I don't know how to fix. There are tailgate 'snubbers' on each side of the hatch. The drivers side def shows where the snubber is contacting the body (as it should). The passenger side however does not appear to be working at all, and that is where the noise seems to be coming from, especially if I hit a moderate dip. The OEM snubbers are non-adjustable. How should I deal with this? The body/hatch alignment is perfect on the outside.
Thanks

[WD40]

Not sure about your hatch problem...

But...
Made a rubber mount but want to go with WD40 idea. Only where do I get the bushing and washers?
The bushings I used for the rear shocks came off some Rancho shocks I had on my Bronco.
Any parts store should stock them.
Just ask for poly shock mounts, and get the diameter that will fit your shocks.

[S0C0nFused]

Hmm. Ya! Thats why I wanted a pic WD40. The Ford shocks (for me year anyway) have a plastic cover at the very top that has plastic clips that come through the top mount and serve to center the shock. I played with some bushings and cannot see a way to incorporate them (not enough threads left). The mounts I made have a 5/8" hole in the center to clear these clips. Thats pretty big for a standard bushing.
Hatch problem I know how to fix, just was hoping someone had done it before so I don't have to hunt up the parts (which can take a long time).

[S0C0nFused]

Update: The rear hatch snubbers ARE adjustable. All better now! (Do I get the 'i am blind' award?)

[macdiesel]

Isn't the oem spec on the rear upper shock bolt like 13 ft/lbs or something insanely low?

[WD40]

^^^You got it...13ft lbs.

Originally Posted by S0C0nFused

The Ford shocks (for me year anyway) have a plastic cover at the very top that has plastic clips that come through the top mount and serve to center the shock.

Humph...no plasticy things on the earlier years.
But...you may not need them.
These are what I used:

That "shoulder" if you will (raised portion on the bushings on the left) is exactly the same size as the hole in the car body where the shock goes through.
That in itself centered the shocks.
I used the existing lower washer, and new uppers that I had with the bushing.
Note:
You will have to measure the hole in the body to make sure you get bushings with the same size shoulder.
I just happened to luck out, and what I had lying around from the Bronco fit perfectly.