|10-01-2008, 06:05 PM||#1|
Amsoil Dual Remote By-Pass Filter Installation
Amsoil Dual Remote By-Pass Filter Installation (original by TeamFocus)
Please read through the instructions before beginning.
Tools and supplies needed:
1. 3/16 in. drill bit
3. ¼-20 NF starter tap
4. ¼” Stainless Steel flat washers
5. ¼” Stainless Steel lock washers
6. Thread Sealant (Permatex High Temp. Sealant)
7. Extra Hose (approx. 8 foot more than what comes with the installation kit)
8. 45 degree and 90 degree adapters (these come in a kit with two each)
9. Floor jack and jack stands if available
10. 7/8 inch open end wrench
11. 6.5 quarts of synthetic oil (I used Amsoil’s Series 2000 0W-30, which of course can be purchased from me).
12. Crescent wrench
13. Needle nose pliers
Note: First, if you do not know what drill and tap means, please seek the help of someone that does. It’s not difficult but if you have never done it before either get someone to do it for you or show you how it is done. Second, DON’T skimp on the quality of the flat and lock washers. They can be found at most hardware stores and automotive stores. I would recommend against the zinc coated type, get the genuine stainless steel type. Finally, use a high quality thread sealant NOT a thread locker. Amsoil’s instructions do not call for the use of a thread locker; rather they state the use of a thread sealant.
You will need two (2) 45 degree and two (2) 90 degree adapters and extra hose. In most applications the hose that comes with the kit (approx. 8 feet) would be enough. However, given the mounting location for the by-pass system, almost six feet is needed just for one hose and there are two that will be run.
I would highly suggest once you get the by-pass mount mounted, make a practice run with the hoses to see where they are going to route and to make sure you have room, clearance and no extreme bends will be in the hose. The hose is not all that flexible and you will need to ensure that there are no bend radiuses less than three inches. As well, you will need to ensure that the hose will not be in contact with something that will rub against it and cause the wearing of a hole in the hose or other type of damage, it is after all carrying your oil supply and it won’t take long for all that oil to run out.
The weakest point in the whole system is putting the hose adapters onto the hoses themselves. Botch the job here and you’re just asking for a leak. Take your time and do it properly and save yourself the headache down the road. Done properly and according to Amsoil’s instructions, you have nothing to worry about. The hoses fit to the adapters very snugly and very securely and will give you trouble free use if connected properly.
Finally, be prepared when you go to put the full flow adapter on and connect up those hoses. This is the adapter that will take the place of where the filter would normally be. It is a cramped space and will require patience. If you can get the car onto jack stands it becomes CONSIDERABLY easier to work in that area. I HIGHLY recommend the use of jack stands. At the very least use a floor jack so that you can get the car up high enough to work in this area. Plan ahead a little too as to where you will jack up the car at as it may be in the way if don’t choose a good location.
STEP 1: Disconnect side marker lamps electrical connections from the bumper cover. Also disconnect the fog lamp electrical connectors if equipped.
STEP 2: Remove the front bumper cover assembly. There are three bolts on the left and right sides of the bumper cover near the wheel wells. There are also two retainers in the front center of the bumper cover just behind the upper grille area.
STEP 3: Drill holes for the mounting bracket. The kit comes with two brackets that must be used for adequate support. The larger bracket supports the by-pass unit from the top, the smaller supports it from the bottom. You will need to use the larger of the two brackets to determine where the holes will need to be drilled. Only three holes will need to be drilled since I used an existing slot in the frame for one bolt location. See Figure 3 for the bolt hole locations.
There are raised areas on the frame. As a result you will need to use about three flat washers for each bolt, placed behind the mounting bracket in order to keep everything fairly flat and even. Also, if you are able to do so, you could drill a hole in the bottom side of the frame about 1-1/8 to 1-1/4” in diameter to give you access to the bottom two bolts of the mounting bracket. If you can do this, there will be no need to drill and tap the bottom two holes. You can instead just drill a 1/4” hole and install the bolt and nut like the top two bolts. This would also have the benefit of more stability and support for the whole assembly. The frame metal is not very thick and is not typically ideal for doing drill and tap, but it was the only option available at the time and will work if you are careful. If you drill and tap the bottom two bolt hole locations, the top two bolts will become more of the load bearing bolts and will need to be especially secure. I used a flat washer on the bolt head, and a flat washer and lock washer on the nut side to provide extra assurance the bolts would adequately support the by-pass unit alone if the bottom two bolts were to come out. I drove approximately a week with just the top two bolts installed on the by-pass unit with the filters mounted and there were no problems.
The holes will be about 3-3/8” from the front side of the frame. See Figure 4. Using the ‘slot’ in the top of the frame (See Figure 3) use a bolt and nut to mount the bracket and once you have the bracket level and straight, use a permanent marker to mark the location of the other three holes. Then drill hole #2 with a 1/4” drill bit. If you do not drill an access hole on the bottom side of the frame then you will need to drill holes #3 and #4 with a 3/16” drill bit then tap them with a ¼-20 tap.
See Figures 5 and 6 to get an idea of how the bracket should look once it has been mounted and secured.
STEP 4: With the mounting bracket securely mounted, you will now need to mount and bolt up the by-pass filter mount assembly. Please note that the bolts used holding the by-pass assembly to the mounting bracket are installed upside down. If this is not done, the filters will not have sufficient clearance and will rub up against the bolts and may not fully seal (See Figure 7)
Before you mount the by-pass assembly, be sure to install the plug (See Figure 8) using thread sealant. The by-pass kit comes with some thread sealant that can be used or you can use Permatex High Temperature thread sealant. It is imperative that you use thread sealant where the supplied Amsoil instructions call for. Failure to do so may result in a leak.
STEP 5: Once the by-pass assembly has been mounted and secured you will need to install the inlet/outlet fittings. You will also need to use thread sealant on these fittings. See Figure 9 for the location of the inlet/outlet fittings. There are four fittings like those pictured that are included with the kit. Two have ‘O’ rings and two do not. The two WITH the ‘O’ rings are the ones used at the inlet/outlet fittings pictured in Figure 9. The two without the ‘O’ rings are the ones that will be used on the oil filter adapter plate.
You MUST use thread sealant on these fittings and ENSURE they are tightened down properly otherwise oil can leak from the fittings.
STEP 6: After the inlet/outlet fittings are installed you will need to install the 90 degree adapter fittings. Since the adapter fitting swivels, you will need to hold the fitting with a crescent wrench while tightening the fitting with a 7/8” open end wrench. You want the fitting pointing straight downward when it is secured. Be careful to not damage the thread of the fitting with the crescent wrench. The fitting needs to be tight, but take care not to over tighten as damage can occur to the fitting. Do this for both inlet and outlet ports.
DO NOT use thread sealant on the 90 degree angle adapter fitting. DO NOT use thread sealant unless it is explicitly called for in the supplied Amsoil instructions. See Figure 10.
STEP 7: Next you will need to install the fittings onto the hoses themselves. Again, care must be used to ensure that the fittings are installed correctly in order to prevent any leaks. See Figure 11 and Figure 12 for examples of the right and wrong way to cut the hose.
STEP 7, CONT.: After the hose has been cut properly you will need to install the fittings onto the hoses. There are four hose adapter fittings supplied with the kit. Each is a two part fitting consisting of what I termed the hose end ‘cap’ and the hose adapter fitting (See Figure 13). The supplied instructions suggest using a vice to do this process but it can be done by hand. The hose end ‘cap’ is an extremely snug fit so be patient. Insert the hose into the hose end ‘cap’ and turn the hose COUNTER CLOCKWISE until it is flush with the top of the hose end ‘cap’. DO NOT apply oil to the outside of the hose prior to installing the hose end ‘cap’.
STEP 7, CONT.: Once the hose end cap is installed you will need a crescent wrench and a 7/8” open end wrench to install the hose adapter fitting into the hose end ‘cap’. You will need to either dip the threaded end of the hose adapter fitting into oil or apply oil liberally to the threaded area of the hose adapter fitting before screwing the adapter fitting into the hose end ‘cap’. Be patient as it will take time to get the adapter fitting screwed completely into the hose end ‘cap’. ENSURE that the bottom of the hose adapter fitting is snug against the top of the hose end ‘cap’ per the supplied instructions.
See Figure 15 for the completed installation of the hose adapter fitting and hose end ‘cap’.
STEP 8: Once the hose fittings have been properly installed you will need to attach the hoses to the inlet/outlet fittings. I would recommend that you do not tighten them down completely. This will allow the hoses to swivel as they are routed over to the oil filter adapter assembly. You do not want the hoses twisted or to have a radius that is too sharp. Amsoil’s supplied instructions call for a bend radius of no less than three inches and give you instructions on how to ensure you do not bend the hoses too sharply.
STEP 9: Now you will need to route the hoses over to the oil filter so that they can be cut to length and the fittings installed to attach to the oil filter adapter assembly. Unfortunately I cannot get clear pictures of the path I used to route the hoses. However, I can tell you that I routed them under the frame where the by-pass unit is installed, up in front of the transmission and then in between the battery box and the motor. Then along the firewall over to the oil filter. I would highly recommend taking the time to look things over to determine the best path for your application. I did see what could be some other possibilities but at the time of installation I wanted to maintain as easy access to everything I could in case I ran into any issues with the installation.
You want to route the hoses in such a manner that there are no bends exceeding the minimum bend radius. You also wan to avoid being close to things that give off excessive heat such as the exhaust. You also want to leave enough slack so that engine movement does not strain the hoses or connections. This is most critical in the area near the oil filter adapter assembly. If you suspect that the hoses might be rubbed against by some other part in the engine bay, then use a sleeve around the hoses to avoid direct contact. In general, with the importance of the hoses and the results if one were to break open, if you think it might happen, try and take steps to prevent it.
I used zip ties to secure the hoses mainly in the area where the hoses go under the frame and up in front of the transmission. I would also suggest that you use a split wire loom sleeve on the hoses along the areas that it is against the firewall since the exhaust is just 6 – 8” below the lines and then zip tie them so that they wont come in contact with the exhaust. The hoses are fairly stiff and wont move much once connected, but still take some precautions.
STEP 10: If you have not already done so, now is a good time to either jack up the car with a floor jack, or if possible, jack it up and put it on jack stands. Trust me; you want to do one or the other. As well if the motor is still warm or hot, you may wish to wait until it cools off more.
At this point remove the oil filter. Then clean the filter mounting surface as best you can. Use a clean cloth to wipe down filter mounting surface.
STEP 11: After the oil filter has been removed, you will need to prepare the oil filter adapter for mounting in place of where the oil filter used to be. The by-pass kit comes with four thread adapters. Three of them are painted, one is not. The one with no paint is the one you will need, see Figure 17.
You will notice on the thread adapter to be used, one end has been ‘knurled’. The knurled end is the end with ridges like you would find on a coin. See Figure 18. You will need to apply thread sealant to the thread end of the thread adapter. See Figures 18 and 19. Thread the thread adapter into the filter adapter assembly as tight as you can by hand. Then use a set of needle nose pliers on the knurled end of the thread adapter and screw in the thread adapter and tighten down. See Figure 20.
Once you have the thread adapter installed and tightened you can go ahead and install the filter adapter ‘O’ Ring. The kit comes with two O rings and an adapter plate. The adapter plate and the O ring for it will not be used.
STEP 12: Next you will need to install the filter adapter assembly adapter fittings. If you recall, earlier you installed two adapter fittings (Step 5) to the inlet/outlet ports of the by-pass mounting. Those two had ‘O’ rings. You will now need the two that DO NOT have ‘O’ rings. If you are left with two adapter fittings that have O rings, you installed the wrong fittings into the by-pass mounting and will need to correct this. See Figure 21 for the correct fitting to be used in the filter adapter assembly.
You will need to apply thread sealant to one end of the fitting. DO NOT apply thread sealant to the shorter, tapered end of the fitting. This is the end the hose will connect to and does not require any thread sealant. See Figure 21.
Install the adapter fittings to the filter adapter assembly. See Figure 22. Tighten the fittings down but use caution as over tightening the fittings could cause the filter adapter assembly to crack. Do this for both the inlet and outlet ports on the filter adapter assembly. Take note of the red paint on one of the ports (See Figure 22). Pay particular attention to this as the paint identifies visually the OUTLET port of the assembly that MUST be connected to the INLET port of the by-pass mounting assembly. The inlet and outlet ports are identified with engraved arrows on the by-pass mounting assembly. See Figure 23 for the completed filter adapter assembly.
Note: I tried to take as many pictures as I possibly could to thoroughly document the procedure for installing the Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass unit. However, under the car pictures were difficult to do so I do not have any pictures after the filter adapter assembly was installed.
STEP 13: Install the filter adapter assembly to the motor. Be SURE to apply a thin coat of oil to the filter adapter assembly gasket (‘O’ Ring) seen in Figure 20. In normal practice you would put on an oil filter and tighten it just past hand tight. I would recommend that when installing the filter adapter assembly that you use a wrench wedged between the two fittings to tighten more than hand tight. Take extra care to not leverage too much force on the fittings and crack the adapter assembly. But try and get it about a half a turn past hand tight if not more.
STEP 14: Once the filter adapter assembly has been installed, you will need to install the 45 degree fittings to the filter adapter fittings. You want the 45 degree fittings installed in such a way that they face the driver’s side and at a slightly up angle. If you notice in Figure 24 when my filter adapter assembly was tightened down the fittings were at about a 45 degree angle. If yours tightens down like this then it will make for an easier hose connection.
Route the hoses over to determine the length you will need. BE SURE to add at least a couple of inches to the length to account for engine movement. Once I had the length determined and where I would cut the hoses I wrapped that location with a piece of electrical tape so I could pull the hoses back out and install the hose end cap and the hose adapter fitting onto the hose. If you have not already done this then do so per Step 7.
Once you have the hose end cap and adapter fitting installed, route the hose over to the filter adapter assembly again. Again, find the hose connected to the INLET of the by-pass mounting assembly and connect it to the 45 degree fitting on the OUTLET of the filter adapter assembly, the one painted red. It will be easier to do this one first given the confined space since it has the visual cue. Unfortunately with the confined space in this area it may be a bit of a challenge, but it can be done. If you have the vehicle up on jack stands it will be considerably easier. At the very least I recommend you have the car jacked up with a floor jack.
You will need to hold the 45 degree fitting with a crescent wrench while tightening the hose fitting to the 45 degree fitting. This will keep the 45 degree fitting from moving while the hose fitting is being tightened down. Once the outlet hose is tightened down and secure do the same for the other end of the hose attached to the by-pass mounting assembly. Once you have completed one hose, go ahead and connect and tighten down the other hose at both ends.
Once you have this done double check ALL connections. Make sure everything is tightened down. I would pay particular attention to the filter adapter assembly, the 45 degree fittings and the hose connections since a leak here will most likely require the car to be jacked up again to gain access to this area. Once you are certain all connections are tight and secure inspect the area the hoses are routed along. Look for ANYTHING that will rub against the hoses or that may pose an extreme heat exposure to the hoses. Remember, this is carrying all of your oil supply. A break in the hose will dump your oil supply in a matter of seconds and leave your motor unprotected. As well a break in the hose near a heat source could potentially cause a fire. DO NOT skimp in the inspection process, it is CRITICAL that hoses not be exposed to excessive heat or items that would rub against them. If you suspect that a hose may be subject to items that will rub against them then use split loom wire harness to cover the area for added protection.
In the routing of my hoses they ended up about 8” away from the exhaust pipe. This is sufficient space to prevent excessive heating. However, if you are concerned then use a heat shielding material. Additionally, you can use zip ties to secure the hoses in place to prevent them from moving closer to anything. Take special care to not over tighten the zip ties. My rule of thumb was to just snug them down enough to hold the hose in place. If you cannot move the hose through the zip tie with at least a little bit of effort, then it is probably too tight. If you over tighten a zip tie on to the hose, it could cause the hose to collapse and thus cut off your oil supply.
Once you are satisfied the fittings and connections are tight and the hoses are secure from heat or moving surfaces/parts then if you have not already done so, lower the vehicle and drain the oil pan of the existing oil. Now, there are two ways to approach this. First, if you want to see proof the by-pass system works, you could leave in your oil and then add just enough to account for the extra filter capacity (approx. 2 quarts). You will after just a short time of driving see it clear up just as if you had done an oil change. However, doing this means that the new filters have had to pull out all the contaminants that were in the oil and thus reduce the time before you need to change them out.
The other way to approach this is just to drain the oil pan and fill everything back up with fresh oil. I've seen the by-pass filter in action before so I needed no such proof that it worked. I refilled with 6.5 quarts of new Series 2000 0W-30 oil. Once you have oil in the crankcase go ahead and install the filters onto the by-pass mounting assembly. The filter mounts are of a different size so the full flow filter will only go on one mount, the by-pass filter on the other. Be sure to coat the gaskets of both filters with oil and tighten only a little past hand tight.
I would recommend over the next few days to check each day for any leaks. They will show up quickly if there are any. I developed a leak that the fitting that connected the hose to the outlet port of the by-pass mounting assembly. The fitting was not tightened enough and I lost about ¼ quart of oil before I could correct it. Once the fitting was tightened down there were no further leaks.
Once you are satisfied with everything I would pour in about 5 quarts of oil into the crankcase. Start the motor for about 30 seconds and check the level again. If you feel brave you can at this point loosen the filters one at a time VERY carefully and VERY slowly to ensure the oil is getting to each of the filters. If it is, the pressure will force the oil through the top and you will see it seep out. Again, if you loosen them too fast or too much you will have a big mess so be careful. It takes a while for the pressure to be relieved but eventually the pressure will equalize and you can remove the filters or disconnect lines should it become necessary.
After you have ensured an oil supply to both filters, the oil has been refilled to the proper level and everything is tightened, secured and protected you can re-install the front bumper cover. Clean up, pick up, start ‘er up and enjoy the added protection of more oil, better filtration and less time changing out your oil due to the longer drain intervals. Of course that has the side effect of reducing your overall maintenance costs which should make you really happy. Oh, and lets not forget that you no longer have to be a contortionist to get to your oil filter.
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