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Old 06-16-2008, 05:25 AM   #21
theWorst
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add a wire to the ecu bracket that attaches to the engine bay on the right side...

:)
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Old 06-16-2008, 06:48 AM   #22
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i made my own kit when I had a spec V. i just bought 4 GA amp wire from circuit city. I didn't do this for the hp gains. Just like everyone says, my car did feel more responsive after I was done with it.
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:04 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
Brad, Do me a favor. Go to a run that is about a foot long and measure the resistance in Ohms. Most likely if you test what you have and various other brands they will be fairly close, as in close enough to not register as different on a normal DVOM.
Thank you, exactly what I was hoping to get out of this post, someone with technical knowledge to keep me straight. I'll have my meter out after work today. And will be checking out the sites you linked. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:05 AM   #24
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ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by aTm [:)
;2179351]i made my own kit when I had a spec V. i just bought 4 GA amp wire from circuit city. I didn't do this for the hp gains. Just like everyone says, my car did feel more responsive after I was done with it.
im doing this . what can it hurt
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:06 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by theWorst View Post
add a wire to the ecu bracket that attaches to the engine bay on the right side...

:)

Will do, I've seen that mentioned somewhere before and forgot about it.

Thanks for the reminder!

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Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
FYI, shielding on a ground wire does absolutely nothing, and is a 100% false statement. To "shield" a wire you have to have a way of grounding stray current (in the simplest of terms). Being it is a ground, where would you ground the shield to? Get my point.
I need some clarification on this point. I buy shielded Cat 5E or 6 cable for networks all the time. Those cables are not grounded. It is my understanding that the "shielding" is simply to reduce the amount of stray signals (electromagnetic interference) picked up or radiated by the cable.

From Wiki:

"A shielded cable is an electrical cable of one or more insulated conductors enclosed by a common conductive layer. The shield may be composed of braided strands of copper (or other metal), a non-braided spiral winding of copper tape, or a layer of conducting polymer. Usually, this shield is covered with a jacket. The shield acts as a Faraday cage to reduce electrical noise from affecting the signals, and to reduce electromagnetic radiation that may interfere with other devices. The shield minimizes capacitively coupled noise from other electrical sources."

Isn't this the same type of shielding we're referring to regarding these cables?

I'm not trying to argue with you, believe me my knowledge level of automotive wiring is worse than a two years olds. But shielding, as described above, make sense to me.

Brad
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:05 PM   #26
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Isn't this the same type of shielding we're referring to regarding these cables?

I'm not trying to argue with you, believe me my knowledge level of automotive wiring is worse than a two years olds. But shielding, as described above, make sense to me.
Yes, that is shielding, but if the wire you're using as the shield is grounded to the car ground, then it's going to experience the same noises as the ground. So if the ground sees a spike, the shield will see the spike too, since they would be at the same potential to each other at all times. Thus, the shield is not truly electrically isolated from the ground wire it's supposed to protect. It would be effective for high frequency noise, but not all types of noise.

In theory, you could wire the ground shield to the earth by dragging a wire on the ground and attaching the ground shield to that. But who would do that? :)
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:11 PM   #27
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It has to do with what direction the electrons are moving. In a positive charge they want to move to the outside of the conductor. With a negative charge they move inward. With things like CAT5 or simple RCA cables you have a positive and negative charge moving down the same multi conductor cable. To keep the signals from interfering they are encased in a shield. This is done to reduce interference from the cable itself. Say you have 100' of CAT5 your are running through the ceiling of a building, you only need 80 for the run, you get to the destination and roll u the remaining cable and tie it in a big loop. If that cable where not shielded that big loop would cause interference in itself, the resistance would go up and the data loss would probably be affected because the server would have to push harder on the data.

Now in an automotive single conductor situation you don't have to be that protective of signals. There really isn't any multi signal wires or long overlapping runs. Yes you will have positive and negative running side by side, but at the low amperage they operate there is no electro magnetic interference created. As a general rule EMI will increase with amperage in the same cable size, increase the cable size and the EMI goes down.
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:58 PM   #28
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Thank you gentlemen, I think I can wrap my pea brain around that info. How about another question. Some instructions for doing this say to daisy-chain the grounds starting at the battery negative post and then off of each ground to terminate on the opposite side of the chassis (hope that made sense). And I've seen instructions that want you to run each individual ground back to a single termination block and run one ground from that block to the battery negative post.

Any thoughts on that one would be appreciated also. Just a note, Sun's directions indicate daisy-chain. If you look at my 1st post here you'll notice that I've actually got a combination of both going on right now.
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:36 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradWhite View Post
Thank you gentlemen, I think I can wrap my pea brain around that info. How about another question. Some instructions for doing this say to daisy-chain the grounds starting at the battery negative post and then off of each ground to terminate on the opposite side of the chassis (hope that made sense). And I've seen instructions that want you to run each individual ground back to a single termination block and run one ground from that block to the battery negative post.

Any thoughts on that one would be appreciated also. Just a note, Sun's directions indicate daisy-chain. If you look at my 1st post here you'll notice that I've actually got a combination of both going on right now.
I'm not really a power electronics expert, but I did take an intro course on it in college. I think both techniques have the same goal -- prevent current loops.

When current runs in a loop, the inside of the loop is subject to changing electric fields as current flows and stops. So if you carefully arrange your grounding to avoid these loops, you won't have big fields going through the sensitive electronics. For example, your car audio might sound a little cleaner.

Either technique has the same goal -- take out loops and make tree like structures instead.
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:55 PM   #30
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^^Correct. But the only way daisy chaining grounds will be more effective than just using the body is if the grounds total resistance is lower than the body, which it should be being you are using copper instead of steel.

To me it just seems like a lot of leg work for very minimal gains, though I'm kind of surprised by your mileage increase. That in itself has me really pondering, lol.
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