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SVT Performance (2002-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L SVT DOHC Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 02-24-2008, 08:54 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pelotonracer2 View Post
I used an MSD coil, not the Screamin Demon. Like I said before there is a noticeable difference in voltage between the MSD and stock coil (but it's not like thousands of volts). You can also "visually" see a difference in the quality and strength of spark by grounding the plug against the block and firing it. Perhaps my stock coil is out of spec (I didn't test two different stock coils) and I don't have a shop manual to verify the range. What I do know is the car runs fine with the stock stuff, but once you modify the electrode (which also facilitates a wider gap and a radically different ground electrode) the engine runs erratically, misses and idle quality is no good. With the MSD coil and wires it runs just fine. The actual power gain using the mod and indexing the plugs is approximately 2-3% which is about what I expected since I've done this mod to alot of different cars. Typically you see 1-2hp per cylinder depending on combustion chamber design, compression and intake/exhaust valve/port efficiency. It's not alot but it's still something... and on these cars every little bit helps!

I can see this working better than using an open style spark plug like Brisk for instance because even though it is "open" it still uses 4 points for the negative electrode, which means if the path of least resistance is the negative electrode on the back side of the plug, the actual extended length electrode of the longer plug becomes a restriction. With a standard plug with a single point electrode, you can actually point the plug directly at the exhaust port (the whole point in indexing plugs in the first place).

Yes, I have plenty of dyno runs of before and after and then back to stock again (12 pulls in all). The only mod I had at the time was a K&N panel filter in the OEM SVT airbox. I saw 148hp and 137 pft at the front wheels (average of first four runs). After swapping out the parts (which took 15 minutes), the average went to 152hp & 141pft (four runs total). Back to stock again and 20 minutes later we did 4 more runs and the average was 147hp & 135 pft. Pretty consistant I'd have to say. This power increase was pretty consistant from around 2500 to red line so yes it did add some power under the curve (and 4-5hp peak)

I plan on doing dyno tests every time I make a change. I don't have access to a scanner at the moment so you'll just have to take my word for it for now. However when I'm completely finished with this project (maybe spring/summer of 2008) I will make all my documentation available for everyone to read (including the results of removing as much weight as possible).

so where's this write up?
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:12 PM   #92
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so where's this write up?
"when I'm completely finished with this project (maybe spring/summer of 2008) I will make all my documentation available for everyone to read (including the results of removing as much weight as possible)."

It's still winter (Febuary) and I have limited time to work on the car. As stated above I'll probably be done in May or June. I only just finished the N/A build on the car and need to do a follow up dyno after all the mods. I'm still looking for another SVT to buy to make my daily driver (I have kids and need back seats).

But since I posted in this thread last, I've swapped out my entire suspension (springs, shocks & sway bars), put 215/35-18s on my wheels, installed a FRRP short throw shifter, removed the shifter counterweight, installed a lower engine mount, installed HFC, 3" exhaust system, 3" flexpipe and a custom tune from Tom. Some cosmetic mods as well. Haven't had time to do much more with it but as it warms up a little I'll start working on the weight reduction....

I'll take a few pics of the plug mod sometime later this week with a digital camera. You can try it with your stock wires and coil. Since the plugs don't use crush washers, you will have to purchase 4 boxes (or 16 plugs) to find four that will face the exhaust port on each cylinder. It is sorta a PITA, but it works and if it yields 1hp per cylinder on average then I think it's worth the time and extra expense.
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:45 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pelotonracer2 View Post
"when I'm completely finished with this project (maybe spring/summer of 2008) I will make all my documentation available for everyone to read (including the results of removing as much weight as possible)."

It's still winter (Febuary) and I have limited time to work on the car. As stated above I'll probably be done in May or June. I only just finished the N/A build on the car and need to do a follow up dyno after all the mods. I'm still looking for another SVT to buy to make my daily driver (I have kids and need back seats).

But since I posted in this thread last, I've swapped out my entire suspension (springs, shocks & sway bars), put 215/35-18s on my wheels, installed a FRRP short throw shifter, removed the shifter counterweight, installed a lower engine mount, installed HFC, 3" exhaust system, 3" flexpipe and a custom tune from Tom. Some cosmetic mods as well. Haven't had time to do much more with it but as it warms up a little I'll start working on the weight reduction....

I'll take a few pics of the plug mod sometime later this week with a digital camera. You can try it with your stock wires and coil. Since the plugs don't use crush washers, you will have to purchase 4 boxes (or 16 plugs) to find four that will face the exhaust port on each cylinder. It is sorta a PITA, but it works and if it yields 1hp per cylinder on average then I think it's worth the time and extra expense.
What suspension stuff did you go with?

I would have expected you to go with a nice light weight 16in wheel like an OZ or rota (what I'm looking for for autoX) instead of an 18...
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:00 PM   #94
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What suspension stuff did you go with?

I would have expected you to go with a nice light weight 16in wheel like an OZ or rota (what I'm looking for for autoX) instead of an 18...
Why? I weighed my O.Z. Ulteggeras before I mounted them and they only weigh 16.7 pounds each. That's lighter than most 16 or 17" wheelsets, unless I were to get some ugly Gramlights or whatever. They are advertised at 16.5 pounds, but none of mine were quite that light, but close none-the-less. I like the looks of the 18s and went with the lightest wheels I could find in that size. The 215/35-18 tires I went with are sub 20 pound tires (19.3 pounds each) which isn't bad at all considering the size. My 215/40-18s weighed 23.5 pounds each. I mainly went with those in the beginning to fill in the fender gap until I lowered the car.

Certainly if my intent was to build an auto-x car then I would have gone with a 13-14 pound 16x7 wheel.

I went with Eibach Pro full suspension, including springs, shocks & sway bars. It has a much nicer stance and handles a whole lot better! I wasn't looking for a slammed look or a tooth rattling ride.
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:40 PM   #95
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what the hell is going on in this thread.....

it's like great info in the wrong thread.......
Im enjoying it....
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:01 AM   #96
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I like my double knock-off Excel F-1's....17Lbs each...and for $105 each, that works for me

only thing is they make themselves look small the way they look.......other than that, they take any hole in the road with my BFG tires on them
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:55 AM   #97
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I have a set of 5 Euro Focus (not EAP) 6 spoke rims sitting in my garage right now.

They weigh 12.8 lbs a piece. I cannot wait to get tires for them. They are 17 inches in diameter.
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:29 PM   #98
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I have a set of 5 Euro Focus (not EAP) 6 spoke rims sitting in my garage right now.

They weigh 12.8 lbs a piece. I cannot wait to get tires for them. They are 17 inches in diameter.
I found that the 215/45-17 tires weighed a few pounds more than the 215/35-18s.

I was really looking for a certain look with the 18's, but I didn't want a heavy wheel. I really like the gunmetal Enkei RSV 18x7.5s. Unfortunately they weigh like 27 pounds each.. (laughs) so they weren't going to be a good choice for me. The 7.5" width of the RSV gives the 215/35-18 tire sidewalls that nice rounded tuck look I love that you just don't get with the 7" width wheels. I'll definately get a set for my 2nd SVT (daily driver)!
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:37 PM   #99
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I would love to throw R-Compounds on these wheels and only use them for Show and track use but at 240 a tires that is more than I want to spend. I have other bills. so i guess i will go with an Eagle F1 GS-D3. i was actually think of going with a slightly smaller sidewall height to try and save a little more weight. Plus these wheels will more than make up for the extra amp I added to the audio.

Current rims are 20lbs a piece now so they are slightly more than the factory Setup. unless you had an EAP of course.
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:58 PM   #100
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Everyone knows a while back I stripped my fofo when I started dragging it. Pulled out two layers of DynaMat, the 10K system, passenger seat, back seat, head liner, even cut out extra metal from the trunk and under carriage, everything not neccasary came off or out. With me in it at the dump it weighed 2490, I am 190-200 depending on lunch.

The most stripped focus I have ever seen belongs to TParker so you would have to ask him for his weight. He was the guy that showed me where to remove extra sheet metal and what not.
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