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Old 11-29-2007, 01:31 PM   #31
MattMarks
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Definately would work - but I think that you'd really be lacking enough spring up front to control body roll/contact patch - what you gain in the rear you'd lose at the front.

There is a new set of springs - M-5560-ZXM - out for this year that are a replacement for the multimatic springs, but drop the car another 1/2 inch or so more than the multimatics. Also may be a touch stiffer as well. I'm putting them on my car. I think they are around $200 or so, so picking up a set to mix and match with your current springs is definately do-able and cheap. Not sure if they are available yet, but should be available by Jan 1. Check with Capaldi, McNews, CFM, or any of the other sponsors on the board.
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:55 PM   #32
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the anti-roll bars arent limited to being unmodified, only that they are under a certain diameter, i wonder if it matters if they are hollow or soild? also i could weld in an adjustment bar, and calculate the different roll stiffnesses and figure out the balance of front to rear roll stiffnesses, i think that becuase its a spec suspension we need to figure out a way to optimize it... would it be out of the rules to put small washers between the upper strut mount and the shock tower to corner balance the car? ive heard of someone doing this before with good results, however im not entirely sure about the legallity in our series. or maybe imthinking to hard and i should just build the car and have fun. anyways just random ideas.. have you driven on the R888's? ive heard they stick harder than the RA1's which i have driven on.... i think that i could analzye the exhaust system and header on wave and fluent, along the the cold-air intake, and optimize them and maybe come close to the power i want. if you can tell i like expirementing and figuring stuff out, im on the FSAE team at UTA, we are in the process of building our 2008 car and im getting inspired with some of their ideas

Matt
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:56 PM   #33
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Or you can just purchase one of our cars that is for sale and it is turn key ready to go.......

As for the Cossie manifold there is a lot of data that shows you lose torque with the manifold...even if you tune the car with all of the parts you will still see lower torque numbers than compared to stock. To see what I am talking about take a look at the FS turbo kits with stock and cossie manifolds. Again please note this manifold is a great product but ideally works better and flows best above 8,000 rpms.....




Even though these cars will be used through out the year these cars are also for sale. With the addition of a 2008 Sedan and another 08 later in the year we figured we would put this out for someone that might want to purchase Spec Focus Race Cars.

One is a 2003 (w/05 Front End) and the other is 2001 Focus, both are ZX3's with Full cages and race seats and nets on window and right side seat net. Below is a brief list of the items each has....

2003 Focus:
2.3L Duratec Engine
5-speed with Torsen
Full Cage w/fire system
Tow hooks front and rear
Built to full spec rules.....
AIM Digital Display
Sparco Seats and OMP steering wheel
Toyo R888 tires
Lexan Driver and passenger windows
Still can be driven in the street as it is still registered
Car has 12,000 miles


2001 Focus:
2.0L Zetec Engine w/racing head
Full cage with w/fire system
complete ac system still working
aftermarket radio still works
Sparco Seats and Sparco Racing wheel
Toyo R888 tires
The car has a salvaged title but still street driven
Car has 54,000 miles
Tow hooks front and rear
5-speed with Torsen and Ring and pinion
Built to spec rules.

Both cars are ready to race for next season and are also ready for sale. The best option for a turn key race car that you can still drive on the street for a bargain price given everything you are getting.

Both cars a available for $8500.00 each (firm on the price), by far the best bargain for the dollar! Please call us at 562-698-3000 or e-mail us at ricardo@f2usa.com.....thanks and take care.
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:11 PM   #34
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well that deffinatly sounds like an option, ijust need to get rid of the MR2

Matt
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Old 11-29-2007, 03:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walshka07 View Post
the anti-roll bars arent limited to being unmodified, only that they are under a certain diameter, i wonder if it matters if they are hollow or soild?
Solid or hollow doesn't matter. As long as the front 21mm or less and the rear is 25mm or less, you're good.

Quote:
would it be out of the rules to put small washers between the upper strut mount and the shock tower to corner balance the car? ive heard of someone doing this before with good results, however im not entirely sure about the legallity in our series
As I read the rules, there's nothing wrong with doing this - you just need to trade off the the change in ride height vs. the better balanced car. My thought is that this would be overthinking the solution. The ride height is high anyway.

Quote:
or maybe im thinking to hard and i should just build the car and have fun.


Quote:
have you driven on the R888's? ive heard they stick harder than the RA1's which i have driven on....
Ford's report is that they stick better - will know in February

Quote:
i think that i could analzye the exhaust system and header on wave and fluent, along the the cold-air intake, and optimize them and maybe come close to the power i want. if you can tell i like expirementing and figuring stuff out, im on the FSAE team at UTA, we are in the process of building our 2008 car and im getting inspired with some of their ideas
Yup - if you can solve this one and make reliable power - you'll have a line of customers lined up, starting with me ;-)
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Old 11-29-2007, 03:08 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focusperform View Post
Or you can just purchase one of our cars that is for sale and it is turn key ready to go.......
I'm with Ricardo - ALWAYS cheaper to buy a car than to build your own. Ask me how I know.

FWIW - I had my car shipped from San Diego to Virginia - cost was just under $600
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Old 11-29-2007, 04:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattMarks View Post
Solid or hollow doesn't matter. As long as the front 21mm or less and the rear is 25mm or less, you're good.



As I read the rules, there's nothing wrong with doing this - you just need to trade off the the change in ride height vs. the better balanced car. My thought is that this would be overthinking the solution. The ride height is high anyway.



Ford's report is that they stick better - will know in February



Yup - if you can solve this one and make reliable power - you'll have a line of customers lined up, starting with me ;-)
the front sway bar is 22mm limit... im guessing that you cant change the pick-up point for the sway bar in the rear, rules mention nothing to say you cant? because you could make the car rotate much better, you have to have a huge rear sway bar because of the terrible placement, but if you could shift it out an inch or two, the rear sway would be i would imagaine it would be 50-60% more effective, making the car turn in and rotate rather easily

the ride height difference would be about a 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch difference, so i dont find it to be unreasonable, also i drove a good freind of mines spec miata before and after corner weighting... huge difference.

i could deffinatly work on the exhaust, i figured out an exhaust for my WRX and it picked up 13whp 14lb-ft of torque, and it only weighed 9lbs, then i sold the exhuast because some guy loved it, i didnt really like the sound anyways, but i could deff build one for the focus, im thinking 2.5in with a mangnaflow flow-though race muffler but ill so some more research.

Matt
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Old 11-29-2007, 05:37 PM   #38
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Here's the swaybar rule:

Rear anti roll bar diameter may not exceed 25 mm. Rear end link and bushing material may be changed but must mount to the anti roll bar and subframe in the original manner with a through-bolt and sandwiched, non-adjustable flexible bushings
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Old 11-29-2007, 05:40 PM   #39
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so it must mount to the subframe in the same manner, but the pick-up point along the control arms can be changed im guessing as it is not defined as a limitation, my guess is that you could easly make the rear sway bar more effctive in this manner

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Old 11-30-2007, 01:35 PM   #40
MattMarks
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I think you'll run afoul of the of the "no other changes are permitted" that aren't specifically allowed catch-all rule. See section 18 of the rules.
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