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Old 04-25-2013, 03:26 PM   #1
2k2wranglerx
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powerstop brake package... any thoughts?

My front brakes are starting to vibrate. I have 30k miles on the car and i'm guessing that they're either a little warped or they have hard spots on them...

anyway, it's a company car. we usually pay our mechanic to do this type of work. i'm SURE paying him for cutting the rotors and new pads would cost close to the 280 bucks that new powerstops all the way around would cost.

So I might order a full set (front and rear) with their ceramic pads and toss them on myself.

http://www.buybrakes.com/p-849-power...brake-kit.aspx

I just wanted to see if anyone out there had tried them yet and how they liked them.


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Old 04-25-2013, 03:29 PM   #2
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I wouldn't pay extra for slotted/drilled rotors, you won't see a benefit.

However, I loved my Powerslots that I had on my Subaru (Brembos).

I have a hard time believing that generic pads and rotors aren't out there for cheaper.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:36 PM   #3
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I liked my powerstops I had on my old Nissan... I just ran normal ceramic pads...

I think i'm going to order them. normal ceramic pads shouldn't squeal like the hard compound EBC's...
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #4
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ordered em up. 282 bucks shipped seemed reasonable
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:51 PM   #5
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I've been hearing terrible reviews on powerstop lately.....guys are saying the rotors don't last even 5k miles before warping.....
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurtinfocus View Post
I've been hearing terrible reviews on powerstop lately.....guys are saying the rotors don't last even 5k miles before warping.....
depends entirely on vehicle and use. you'll warp any rotor going from 90-0 for instance.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:54 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by thejordan View Post
depends entirely on vehicle and use. you'll warp any rotor going from 90-0 for instance.
I figured the stock ones warped in 20k miles (been vibing for a while). figured i'd try these.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:07 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by thejordan View Post
depends entirely on vehicle and use. you'll warp any rotor going from 90-0 for instance.
The most important factor in warpage is the rate of temperature change, not total maximum temperature. And a lot depends on the temp of the brake before the hard stop, or even moderate speed reduction begins. Winter time in cold climates is ripe for warping rotors. When I lived where it got cold, I would always preheat my breaks by dragging then slightly before know exits and braking areas along my daily commute. I still to the same thing when exiting the highway here in AZ, just drag the brakes slightly to give them a chance to heat up before you apply them for the stop at the end of the ramp. I have had no problems with warped rotors on any of my last few cars with this simple technique.

I have also looked at the same Power Stop setup and would like to hear some feedback. Seems reviews and opinions go both ways.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:14 AM   #9
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The most important factor in warpage is the rate of temperature change, not total maximum temperature. And a lot depends on the temp of the brake before the hard stop, or even moderate speed reduction begins.
Interested in a technical way, rate of change causing warpage in rotors...
Race cars? Do they change them after every race?
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:49 AM   #10
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Interested in a technical way, rate of change causing warpage in rotors...
Race cars? Do they change them after every race?
Sorry, I was thinking one thing and typing another. Rate is part of it but the bigger part is "delta T" or the total change in temperature. In the race environment, the brakes usually fluctuate between hot and very hot, never getting a chance to completely cool off like they can on a personal vehicle going down the highway getting ready to exit and come to a complete stop from highway speeds. Going from winter time cold to very hot at the bottom of an exit ramp is a prime way to warp some rotors. That is why I mentioned the preheat technique.
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