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Old 03-19-2013, 08:54 PM   #1
AMMO-Duke
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Not your average Turbo Build

I have been planning/designing/collecting parts for this build over the last year and I finally finished it a couple of weeks ago. I know people usually post their build as they go, but i have no patience to get on the computer in the middle of something that involved. So I managed to take pics during the build and I will now post the whole story from the beginning. If you want pics of anything that I missed, just ask. If I dont have it already, I will take a snapshot and load it up for you. I want everyone to enjoy this as much as I did. Also, feel free to ask any questions.

The car:
My car is heavily modified, I will try to stick with talking only about things that pertain to this build
Weight-exactly 2,500 lbs with 1/2 tank of gas
2005 ZX4 Duratec 2.0 MTX75 trans
Engine is internally stock
Before the turbo, I ran a custom header that I made
Stock IM
Tumble Flap/IMRC system delete
EGR delete
PCV delete/crankcase and valve cover vented to atmosphere
Fuel evap system delete
Battery relocated a long time ago
Frame cut out of hood for clearance/weight reduction (also a long time ago)

My Idea:
First I want you to remember that my entire setup is with the intention of putting in a built 2.3. I did not want to have to change anything when I swap motors. Also, I want something different than anyone else has. I am very much into exhaust tuning(made my own header because I dont like the ones made for our cars) so I wanted to see what I could do with a turbo setup.

THE PARTS:

Turbo:
T04B V-trim compressor 8-blade (63 trim)
Inducer: 55mm
Exducer: 70mm
T4 turbine (57 trim according to my measurements)
Inducer: 74mm
Exducer: 56mm
.48 A/R exhaust housing
Bought the turbo used but in excellent condition. Supposedly made by Comp. I got in touch with their tech and sent pictures. They verified it was one of their earlier turbos basically made with Garrett parts(nowadays, they custom make all their own parts). I rebuilt it myself with a new center housing/bearings/upgraded 360 thrust bearing. All specs are perfect/no measurable wear on the shaft, no blades have ever touched the housings.

Dont get yourself all worked up about this turbo being "too big". I have been driving it for 2 weeks and I love the way it spools, even on the stock 2.0. More on that later.

Wastegate: 46mm brand new, picked up for cheap, guy had it laying around the garage for years. Dont know what brand, may be a knockoff. I took it apart and it is high quality/bench tested it/works flawlessly. You'll see pics later on.

BOV: HKS style SSQV. I also thought this was a knockoff, but after researching, I dont know. It has the purple anodized center and all the parts are legit. I took it apart also and it is high quality/bench tested it/works flawlessly. See pics later.

Intercooler: Air to water intercooler setup from Frozenboost.com.

60lb injectors
Stock MAF sensor
3in MAF tube with insert, more details later
MAFia, have not used yet, more details later
Tuned with SCT PRP by myself mostly(overall, I do not recommend this for the average person). I have had some issues on decel with the 60lb injectors and have got help from Tom at Focus-Power(great guy)
Various other parts that you will see as we go

That's enough for tonight, I will start posting pics/story of the build tomorrow.


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Old 03-19-2013, 09:06 PM   #2
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Nice!! Seems you have all figured out...but we need pics LOL
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:13 AM   #3
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pics definitely. and one thing I noticed. why such a small ex housing?
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:44 AM   #4
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Dont know why such a small ex housing. I bought this turbo used and I believe it was made for an SVT. Since I have been driving it, it does not seem to be a restriction. I have no loss of power when out of boost compared to when I was NA. I like the spool. At full boost the wastegate opens up so it does not seem to be a restriction there either since the exhaust is bypassing the turbo. I guess with a larger housing, the wastegate would open later so it seems to me you would have the overall same exhaust flow either way. After driving this, I am not sure I would want a bigger housing. Maybe on a bigger engine it will become an issue?

Patience my friends. Lots of pics are coming. I am trying to do this in chronological order.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:41 PM   #5
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I spent a lot of time thinking about this build and I decided that I wanted the turbo located directly above the transmission next to the engine. I wanted this to look good as well as perform good. I hate having the turbo stuffed behind the engine where you cant see it or work on it. There are pics on the internet where F2 made a twin turbo focus with the turbo's located in this manner, that is basically what I wanted to do, except for the twin part.

This idea presented many challenges that had to be dealt with before I could even think about the turbo itself. Here is the list:

1-Relocate battery
2-Relocate fuse box
3-Relocate brake reservoir
4-Relocate fuel line
5-Figure out oil drain for turbo in this location

Since these are all major projects in themselves, I completed them separately over a period of time (one per weekend). I will try to cover them briefly here so we can get to the good stuff more quickly.

1-Relocate battery
I did this a long time ago. The battery is a motorcycle battery, X2Power X2-15. It weighs 11 lbs I think. It is located inside the drivers side fender directly below the headlight. I will point it out in a pic later on in this thread.

2-Relocate fuse box
Probably the worst project of all time, I would rather rebuild a transmission! I think I will create a separate post on how to do this in the Duratec Perf section. It is just too much for this thread. For now, you just need to know that the fuse box in now located beneath the drivers side dash where the plastic door that holds CD's used to be.

3-Relocate brake reservoir
This also turned out be be a big pain. There are 2 lines off the brake reservoir, one to the master cylinder and one to the clutch master. Luckily, I did not need to remove the line to the master cylinder, It just swings around to the other side perfectly without even removing it. I had to make a new line to the clutch master cyl. This is tough to do because no one make aftermarket lines for this stuff. After much research, I used a polyethylene tubing found at many hardware stores. This is supposedly one of the few things that can handle corrosive brake fluid. So far it works great, but I keep an eye on it just in case.

Here is a pic with the fuse box gone before moving brake reservoir


After moving brake reservoir. That is my NA header behind the engine and my CAI up front

4-Relocate fuel line
In the above pic, you will also notice that the factory fuel line is now gone. Sorry, I did not take pics of this specifically. It was pretty straightforward. I used the factory plastic connectors and just cut off the factory line and replaced with 5/16 high press fuel injection hose and routed around the left side of engine. I had to cut back the stainless line behind the engine and used a compression fitting to attach to the stainless line.

5-Figure out oil drain for turbo
I racked my brain on this one for a long time. I finally figured out that there is a large hole with a plug on the drivers side of the head just above/behind the coolant housing. This hole is PERFECT! I could not believe it. It just opens up into the oil drain passages in the head where the oil goes down to the pan. There is no standing oil in this area...perfect.

Here is a pic of the coolant housing and drain plug removed

In order to get access to this hole, I had to cut off the useless shelf on top of the housing.

Before


After


Project ready for turbo


Thats all I have time for now, we'll get to the good stuff tomorrow!
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #6
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Very Nice I cant wait!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:12 AM   #7
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Very interesting. I'm curious to see how you route your exhaust in/out to the turbo in that location.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:24 AM   #8
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I'm a big fan of a nicely bent header
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:08 PM   #9
AMMO-Duke
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Thanks for the comments everyone.

The next step was to mock up the turbo exactly where I wanted it located based on the oil drain. Here is my high-tech solution.




From this location, I built the turbo mount. It is bolted to the 2 lower exhaust flange bolts next to no. 4 cylinder. In the below pic, you can see the turbo mount bolted to the flange. This setup is my header jig that I used when I built my NA header. Basically, it replicates the spacing of the head flange/valve cover/exhaust flange to the rest of the exhaust system. The idea is that you build the exhaust on this rig and then it will fit perfectly to the engine. There is a lot of measuring involved, but works perfectly.



Below is a close up pic of how the turbo is mounted. The mount is bolted under the oil drain flange on the center housing using the oil drain flange bolts.

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Old 03-21-2013, 08:23 PM   #10
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Nice hood stick. You can upload more.....
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