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Old 03-08-2013, 10:20 PM   #1
forddiesel1
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2005 ST 2.3 Rod Knock

Hey guys,
Here's my story, I just bought my car in August with 100,000 miles on it. I was a happy camper, but I've slowly been dumping money into this thing. PCV valve replacement, new CAI (stupid Ford non-replaceable design), etc. Tonight I went to change oil and I found several small metal flakes in the bottom of my drain pan. From reading (and searching) the forums here it looks like I too have fallen to the infamous rod bearing experience. I have no reason to believe this car was beat on prior to my ownership. The exhaust was all stock, wheels and tires were all stock. ZERO modifications at all, so I am guessing that the car probably was low on oil at one point and has started this vicious cycle.
Here are my questions. What do I need to do this job successfully? Pulling the pan looks straight forward enough. Is there a pan gasket or do I just use RTV? Also I have found some "heavy-duty" rod and main bearings from clevite for $150. That sounds like a fair price to me. Torque specs for connecting rods? I have reason to believe that the Haynes manuals are pretty much useless for the 2.3 engine. Does anyone have a Ford manual for sale? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I'm handy with a wrench so I'm not daunted by this undertaking, I just want to make sure I do things the right way the first time.

Cheers,
Jeff


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Old 03-08-2013, 11:49 PM   #2
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to. You are right 'bout the prior owner ran low on oil. CFM= central florida motorsports & Fwerk's have the parts your looking for. I beleive it is $159, for a set of rods. Your going to have to resized the rod's. Since your there, I'd at the least dingo ball the cylinder's & do ring's. Since your there a great cheap mod is pulling the balance shafts out & plugging the oil feed hole for the balance shafts.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:17 AM   #3
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Thanks, but wouldn't I need to pull the crank and the head to completely pull the pistons? Why would I need to resize the rods? I'm thinking just make sure I caught this before the damage got into the crank journals, put in new main and rod bearings and go again. Is there anything else I need to know that I don't already? I've thought about the BSD, but I don't need this car to be any more buzzy or vibrational than it already is. It's my DD and not much else at this point.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:33 AM   #4
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Removing the ballance shaft does not make he engine vibrate more. I did the BSD and lower poly motor mount at the same time and everything vibrated like crazy! Found out my upper mounts were bad. I changed those out and the car runs smoother than it ever has. The BSD is a cheap mod and it allows you to run an extra quart of oil. The car is not buzzy or vibrational and I drive 90 miles a day.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:23 AM   #5
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Another question for those in the know. Do I have to pull the Balance Shaft to get to the bottom of the con-rods? If so it doesn't appear that balance shaft can be successfully reinstalled because it's timed. Therefore, if I am installing main and crank bearings a BSD is a pre-requisite right? I ask because although I like the idea on an extra quart of oil, I don't like the idea of finding surprises on a limited time/financial budget.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forddiesel1 View Post
Another question for those in the know. Do I have to pull the Balance Shaft to get to the bottom of the con-rods? If so it doesn't appear that balance shaft can be successfully reinstalled because it's timed. Therefore, if I am installing main and crank bearings a BSD is a pre-requisite right? I ask because although I like the idea on an extra quart of oil, I don't like the idea of finding surprises on a limited time/financial budget.
Yes you'll have to pull out the balance shaft's. You could possiblely get away w/ just the bearings. Theres no surprises of doing a bsd. Just be surprised of the weight of it. Less rotating mass & a 1.5 qtr of oil can't hurt. Don't forget the static mass also. 18-19 lbs.
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:36 PM   #7
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All the bolts down there are torque-to-yield. Hayne's doesn't have the torque data, neither does Ford. Ford just replaces the entire engine instead of repairing.

That said, if you were planning on removing pistons, they have to come out the top, but the crank can stay in place if you choose. However, to get the head off, you need to remove the timing chain cover to get to the guides, since they bolt to the head and block. Its a real pain in the butt to R&R with the engine in the block. The easiest would be to do the conrod bearings, and use something like 60 ft-lbs + 90 degrees for a torque. I'm just guessing, I've always used aftermarket parts when rebuilding Duratecs.
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:08 PM   #8
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Somewhere else I saw a torque figure for the 2.3 Ranger engine of 26ft-lbs followed by 90 degrees. I really don't intend on doing a full rebuild right now. I won't know for sure though until I tear into it. I'm thinking BSD since it looks like I'll have to pull the balance shaft anyway and it really can't be re-installed, plus a set of rod and main bearings and I'll be set to go again. If I see that the crank journals are scored up I'll have to explore other options, but I'm hoping for the best at this point.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:37 PM   #9
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Welcome to the club, my rod knock started at under 30k and got progressively worse. Ford claimed they couldn't hear it so I just had to deal with it. Never affected driveability. At about 50k I pulled the pan and found the #1 bearings were shot. The whole time I had metal flakes. I actually did replace the #1 bearings with Clevites and it went away for a very short time. And then came back, presumably because the crank journal was out of round. I have a thread on here somewhere that includes pictures of the bearings. As for the whole crank thing, everything I read suggested that the crank would be out of round too and would need to be replaced. I ended up replacing the whole engine with one with 14k. Oh, and I did the BSD at the same time I replaced the bearings since I had the pan off anyways and yes, it did come with increased vibrations. I don't remember where I found what the torque specs were for the rod ends but I did and the 26+90 seems familiar. Or at least the +90 does. Sorry not much help but I will dig through my favorites and see if I find the link.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:44 PM   #10
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Welcome to the club, my rod knock started at under 30k and got progressively worse. Ford claimed they couldn't hear it so I just had to deal with it. Never affected driveability. At about 50k I pulled the pan and found the #1 bearings were shot. The whole time I had metal flakes. I actually did replace the #1 bearings with Clevites and it went away for a very short time. And then came back, presumably because the crank journal was out of round. I have a thread on here somewhere that includes pictures of the bearings. As for the whole crank thing, everything I read suggested that the crank would be out of round too and would need to be replaced. I ended up replacing the whole engine with one with 14k. Oh, and I did the BSD at the same time I replaced the bearings since I had the pan off anyways and yes, it did come with increased vibrations. I don't remember where I found what the torque specs were for the rod ends but I did and the 26+90 seems familiar. Or at least the +90 does. Sorry not much help but I will dig through my favorites and see if I find the link.
Thanks for the help. I'm mentally preparing myself for an engine replacement or maybe a rebuild, but as I'm sure you found the 2.3 engines aren't exactly cheap or plentiful. It looks like at the least I'm looking at a grand for a pulled engine and probably close the same (850 or so) for a rebuild. I can do the labor myself over the summer. Best case scenario: $150 or so for bearings. Worse case scenario?? We'll see. Thanks in advance for any links or archives you can provide. I really appreciate the warm welcome thus far.
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