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Old 03-02-2013, 08:43 PM   #1
gtferrari
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Exclamation Having aftermarket headlight problems?

Dont get stranded due to your projectors not working.

Recently i had to replace a relay on my harness from theretrofitsource for my projectors when i noticed my headlights didnt turn on after unlocking the car. Checked the fuse for the car first then the harness both were ok. Checked the relay and from the outside there was signs of trouble. The clear relay was now dark from rust. A check look at the relay for the high beam revealed the same. Went to pull it off and found a terminal had rusted off. Pulled the other relay to find the same terminal had broken off due to corrosion too. A quick run to the parts store and two $6 generic relays later back in business. For a few days ar least.

Most recently i have been driving without high beams. When i would go to use them the solenoids would click the filter would drop then my lights would turn off. Turning off the high beams made the lights come back on. A check for any loose wires returned nothing. Checked the relays -nothing. What could it be this time? Removed the harness and switched to the opposite side of the car. Same problem. unplugged the solenoids from the harness and tried the lights -still not working. Now im getting even more agitated. A quick look at the wiring diagram showed me the routing of the factory wires and of course it passes thru the smart junction box (the diagram just shows the wires entering the box then leaving- no decription of what takes place- maybe black magic). This makes me a bit worried that the box might be to blame. Not the most affordable thing to replace. Better do a little more digging.

So i pull the harness out all together and plug in my old h13 bulbs. Everything works fine. at least im getting some where. So i cut the relay bases off (an unnecessary mistake) and placed insulated female terminal ends on and plugged the relays back in. A quick test revealed nothing changed.

Better attack the black octopus. What coupd be going on under all off that plastic shielding? Cutting it off revealed a lot off corrosion and sludge that was permiting shorting between the circuits.everything is covered by shrink wrap but in all of the connections there are three wires coming together with just enough of a space for moisture to seep in. Cutting back the shrink wrap reveales soldered splices which is nice. I was expecting just to see some wires twisted together.

I should cut everything apart and trim back to clean copper, re solder, and shrink wrap, but it is late so i will most likely just dry everything out and wrap in electrical tape put back on the car and test.

Some pics to follow when i get to a computer.

Moral of the story -moisture sucks. I had the harness high and dry but what little moisture found its way there wrecked havoc. It might have not been so bad if the plastic sheath was split down the side to permit drainage. Or if they had staggered the splices so they were not side by sideon all of the wires


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Old 03-02-2013, 09:27 PM   #2
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Update. Still without working high beams. They still shut off my ballasts when the solenoids are energized.

Im going to reach out to trfs for some help on this.

Untill then, anybody have an idea on what could be going wrong?
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtferrari View Post
Update. Still without working high beams. They still shut off my ballasts when the solenoids are energized.

Im going to reach out to trfs for some help on this.

Untill then, anybody have an idea on what could be going wrong?
Have you tried, with the bulbs out, hitting the highbeams and testing with a meter? Or just a general loss of power when hitting highbeams?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:02 PM   #4
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Factory harness works as it should. Plugging the original h13 bulbs in works. With the h13 when high is on low is off. This is to darken the area immediately in fron of the car forcing your eyes to focus farther up the road where the highs are aiming.

Ive tested and i have 12volts where i should and good grounds with no resistance (not open or ol).

There was a wierd thing on the harness about half the size of a resistor or a diode but un labeled and only had one lead. I believe it was on the ground circuit. It must have feed back to the low side power circuit but rusted away.

Most likely i will end up having to replace the harness and relays as i doubt there is any warranty on them
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:12 AM   #5
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Yep, kinda had the same problem with my eagle eyes with the passenger side not wanting to work sometimes. Playing around with the connector usually fixes it temporarily, so i dont think my problem sounds as complicated as yours
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #6
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I didn't really read, I am tired and just skimmed. If you hit the high beams and the lights cut out completely, you have the same problem I had.

It was the relay box on the nice wiring kit they give you.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/trs..._harnesses.php

It's a gold relay box shown towards the bottom of the page. The first one I got didn't work for high beams and I messed around with everything trying to figure it out. Called them and they sent me a new one for free.

Been good for months ever since!
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:32 AM   #7
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Both my retrofits with all TRS parts and going great. 2 years on truck and 1 year on car.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:30 PM   #8
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From trfs

Thanks for your email and patience waiting on a response here. I'm sorry to hear of the issues with your harness recently.

There is a diode installed from the high-beam to the low-beams that keeps the ballasts on when you select high-beam, so that was likely either burnt out or removed somehow.

If you prefer wire in a diode, it's a 1N5404 that goes with the stripe facing the low-beam wire coming from the relays
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #9
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with the condition of the wires i will just replace the harness instead of trying to clean everything up, finding a new diode and resoldering it in.

now they have a module that replaces the pair of relays. makes me wonder if they were having problems with the old set up. they did go from 80amp relays with green leds to 40amp relays with red and now have replaced them all with a nice looking morimoto black box that matches the look of the ballasts

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=14029

for $35 why not?
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:15 AM   #10
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Every time I hear about people having any sort of issue with their HID's from TRFS I get nervous about doing a retrofit. That is until someone says they fixed the issue with the older equipment.
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