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Old 03-27-2012, 08:26 AM   #1
Yanner
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Yanner's 2012 stereo install

First off, big thanks to those who have posted info and pictures and answered questions in the other threads.

I wish I would have taken more pictures but I'll try to get a couple more.

The car:

2012 Ford Focus SEL 5MT with leather, moonroof and 17 inch wheels



The gear:

Polk 6.5 inch components for the front, and 6.5 inch coaxials for the rear





Alpine V60 5 channel amplifier



Audio Control LCQ-1 Sound Processor



Pioneer 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer



The install:

I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels. I just bent one of the tabs back that held the factory tweeter and expoxied the new tweeter in after having scuffed its sides with sandpaper. I installed the Polk speakers in the doors using the included mounts. I also installed sound deadening on the door skin directly behind the speaker and a bit around the mounting surface of the speaker. On the rear doors, I also added some sound deadening on the bottom surface of the door, taking care not to interfere with any possible water drainage paths.

I ran the power wire from the battery towards the passenger side on the engine side of the firewall (60A fuse). Went thru the grommet to underneath the glovebox and ran along the trim at the door sills. Removed the rear passenger cubby/trays for the final bit into the hatch.

I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again.



I used a small power distribution block to split power between the amp and the sound processor. I'll be tapping into it here as well when I add my tow wiring. New holes for grounds were easy to make, made one for each of the above.

I made the box (my first ever) out of 3/4 inch MDF (no 5/8 available locally in small sheets) and modeled it after commercially available version from Pioneer. It is 0.5 cubic feet internal volume. I still have to clean it up a bit and carpet it.

Test assembly of the box:



Test of the wiring:



Amplifier and sound processor hidden underneath floor:



Current state:




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Old 03-27-2012, 09:15 AM   #2
FordBass
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Very nice.
No worries on amp overheating?
Why specifically the shallow mount subwoofer?
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:08 AM   #3
Yanner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordBass View Post
Very nice.
No worries on amp overheating?
Why specifically the shallow mount subwoofer?
I'll be keeping an eye on the amp but I think it will be ok. It's a class D amp with two levels of thermal protection, and it's bottom rests directly on the sheet metal of the trunk.

I got the shallow mount sub because for versatility. I originally wanted to do a side mount sub, but went with the flexibility of a stand alone enclosure for now since it always quick complete removal. I like the down firing shallow design because you don't have to worry about putting stuff around or on top of the sub.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:24 AM   #4
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The top part of the amp is the heatsink and the bottom disperses very little heat.
I had a MRP-M500 and it never got hot anyways... so it should be fine.

I'm just a bit cautious of electronics in cars because i know a few people who have had incidents with amps not in ideal places.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:34 PM   #5
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Nice work man.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:24 PM   #6
mitchv
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Wait where is the subwoofer actually going?
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:29 PM   #7
Yanner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchv View Post
Wait where is the subwoofer actually going?
In the hatch, as in the last picture. It's a down firing sub, so you can't see the driver.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:21 PM   #8
voipguy
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You Said
"I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again."

So im not confused the wires you tapped into go to the LOC correct? for Front Right and Left and Rear Right and Left? Did you use the existing speaker wire??

I wonder what the steps are to remove the plastic side panels to run the speaker wire on the right side and the power wire on the left side?

Thanks
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:24 AM   #9
Yanner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voipguy View Post

So im not confused the wires you tapped into go to the LOC correct? for Front Right and Left and Rear Right and Left? Did you use the existing speaker wire??

I wonder what the steps are to remove the plastic side panels to run the speaker wire on the right side and the power wire on the left side?

Thanks
I went from the factory speaker wires under the shifter to the LCQ-1 (it's quite a bit more than a simple LOC) with 4 new 16 awg speaker wires, then from the LCQ-1 to the Alpine amp with RCA's, then back to the factory wiring beneath the shifter with another 4 new speaker wires. From there, the amplified signal uses the factory wiring to the doors.

The power wire was easy to run under the trim, but that was for 4 awg. I took the direct approach through the tunnel because I felt that going the long way round would have been a very long run, and that a bundle of 8 16awg might have been tough to get in the trim. Another member who posted put their sound processor in the glovebox, which I think is a great idea, but in our case, we find that the car has so little storage to begin with.

That being said, getting the wires from the rear of the centre console through the tunnel was no easy feat. The rear seat bottom cushions had to be removed if just to get some extra working room. I wound up having to use the spring from an old wiper blade (basically a flat piece of flexible metal) so that it would bent up and down but not side to side. I also had to make a small cut in the factory carpet, under the rear seat near the mounting bolt to get me some extra working room to pry the carpet up with a very long screw driver when trying to drive the first wire through with the wiper blade spring.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:35 PM   #10
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awesome
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