Im curious how are you all doing it?

[focuzed1]

ok.. it seems that every time i try to take my car down the track even coming out of the hole kinda easy i break either the lower dog bone mount or the bracket the the dog bone mount mounts to. my best 60' was 2.43 and i broke the mount on that run.. even coming out really soft then nailing it in 2nd i break the mount.. i have tried the steeda mount the mac mount poly inserts in the stock mount and they all fail eventually.. what are you all doing to get your 60's down so low without breaking the mount? if i could get my 60's down that low and run my high setting i think i could get my car into the 11s.. on that run that i did a 2.43 on my low setting with a broken mount i ran a 13.86 at 114.7mph... but i am tired of fixing my car every time i want to take it to the track

[Sponsor]

[chris-13]

First do you have all three after market motor mounts installed.
front lower stress bar by FSWerks
Front Energy Suspension control arms bushings
I prefer to have Koni adjustable shocks at the rear and put em on full stiff
if you see my vids on my Flickr page you will see my car has no movement at all on take off

[SMITHBOY76908]

Originally Posted by chris-13

First do you have all three after market motor mounts installed.
front lower stress bar by FSWerks
Front Energy Suspension control arms bushings
I prefer to have Koni adjustable shocks at the rear and put em on full stiff
if you see my vids on my Flickr page you will see my car has no movement at all on take off

Ditto.

I have all of this minus the Koni shocks. I'm hitting 2.0 60ft on drag slicks without issues. I was getting 2.2-2.1 60ft on street tires with no problems. The control arm bushings and lower stress bar worked wonders for wheel hop.

[chris-13]

Finally someone that agreees with me on the control arms bushings and lower stress bar, it pretty much eliminates wheel hop.

[focusmaniaczx3]

dude there just has to be something with it making it break those mounts. i landed 2.0 60ft times on a bone stock car except for some 18x7.5 rims with street tires. that is mounts and everything. the only thing i can think of that would cause that is that perhaps your motor/tranny is trying to twist weird somehow and that is what is causing the breakage. that bracket and mount will take an incredible amount of force when that force is just from the motor pulling against the subframe trying to spin itself around in the engine bay. but if you add a little bit of lateral twist to that force it will break it much much easier because the mount and bracket wasnt designed to be twisted. it could be one of your top motor mounts is too soggy to take the punishment. i found out that if you have a poly mount on the driver side and on the tranny and a factory on the passenger side that the poly mount (the metal mount itself) will break on the driver side the first time you snag a gear too hard. its like the soggy mount is letting the motor twist and give on that side but since the other side is so hard it doesnt give and all that pressure being exerted ends up breaking the mount. perhaps you have something similar going on. i really dont know though, im just grasping at straws here pretty much.

[focuzed1]

i do have all the mounts and the ingalls stiffy.. i do not have the other stuff that you are talking about though. and i can say when i have to change it after it breaks it is a job and a half.. it doesnt want to line up very well at all..

[sporadic]

With your kind of power I'd just use 3 solid mounts and poly control arm bushings.

I run 2 poly mounts and one solid mount with some poly isolators and get absolutely no wheel hop.
14 runs the other day on drag radials, including a few 5K RPM with no clutch slipping and still no wheel hop (just some spinning).

But seriously with your torque I'd run 3 solid mounts with no isolators.
I think you will easily contort the poly material and allow engine twisting.

[WitchCitySVT]

Originally Posted by sporadic

With your kind of power I'd just use 3 solid mounts and poly control arm bushings.

I run 2 poly mounts and one solid mount with some poly isolators and get absolutely no wheel hop.
14 runs the other day on drag radials, including a few 5K RPM with no clutch slipping and still no wheel hop (just some spinning).

But seriously with your torque I'd run 3 solid mounts with no isolators.
I think you will easily contort the poly material and allow engine twisting.

I agree. I know you DD yours, but if your breaking them constantly, then you may want to get a solid mount to swap out for when you go to the track or for the season. You'll still be changing them on a regular, but atleast you you won't have to keep buying mounts.

[focuzed1]

i know i have messed up every poly mount on the lower dog bone mount i have used.. but the only problem with the solid mounts is i drive this car daily.. wouldnt that be too harsh for daily driving?

[sporadic]

Originally Posted by focuzed1

i know i have messed up every poly mount on the lower dog bone mount i have used.. but the only problem with the solid mounts is i drive this car daily.. wouldnt that be too harsh for daily driving?

Yes it will be harsh, but you also have a 400whp FWD car and need to properly control that power.