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Old 04-23-2008, 07:36 PM   #1
CaysE
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Clunking rear shock mounts: Solved?

I believe I may have stumbled on the reason that the rear shock mounts clunk when replacing the dampers:
Overtightening the top shock nut.

That's all. The top nut is a crush nut, meaning it will hold its place no matter how far down you tighten it... but when most people replace the shocks, they tighten them all the way down, crushing the inner sleeve of the rubber bushing and putting the steel plate almost in contact with the dust boot clips that stick out. Over time, suspension travel continues to damage and crush the inner sleeve and the steel plate contacts the dust boot clips, causing clunking.

I also understand now why Ford designed them this way in the first place: low speed comfort. On the highway, shock travel occurs quickly, leaving the top bushing mostly out of the picture. On the backroads, shock travel occurs slowly, leaving the top bushing to do all the work. Now that I put the delrin shims in, the rear feels VERY stiff when driving down my street, but feels great on the highway. Clunking is gone.

I may get new top mounts and replace them, leaving the shims out. The inner sleeve of the rubber piece is pretty messed up from the overtightening, otherwise I would just try it with the ones I have now.

Anyone with clunking top mounts want to try it out? You should only need to tighten the top nut down before the steel washer starts moving downward in the rubber bushing.


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Old 04-24-2008, 12:34 AM   #2
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i never crank really hard on them....especially the fronts....I have KYB AGX...def not trying to snap off the adjustment tab.
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Old 04-24-2008, 02:03 AM   #3
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You are exactly right CaysE.
I overtightened mine before, and it caused a clunking noise.
So I loosened them up, and no more clunking.
Good post!
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:49 AM   #4
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P-51 on fj used to make shims that you can put inside the rubber piece below the washer. No clunking, and solid action.
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Old 10-17-2008, 04:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Egz View Post
P-51 on fj used to make shims that you can put inside the rubber piece below the washer. No clunking, and solid action.
On a side note, anyone know if its still possible to get these? Or if anyone else makes something similar?
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:07 AM   #6
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LOL in case you missed it, I put the shims in, and will be ordering new top mounts to install without them.
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:00 PM   #7
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Any shock that has a shaft that uses a single nut and bushings above and below the upper shock mount should never be fully tightened. That fully compresses the two rubber bushings which can cause noise and doesn't let them do their job correctly. The top shock mounting shaft has to be able to move and not be bound up. Most install directions that come with shocks clearly indicate how much the top bushings are to be compressed. Most of the time there's even a graphic. In most cases you're suppose to "slightly" compress the bushings and then stop tightening.
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Old 10-12-2008, 11:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
In most cases you're suppose to "slightly" compress the bushings and then stop tightening.
Again, Its a question of judgement/experience (of which I am lacking on both counts). I put my rear top shock nuts on and as Geezer said, only enough to "slightly" compress the bushings. There is only about 1/4" of thread showing over the nut. When I bounce the car up and down I can see the bushing plate flex a bit. Did I do it right?
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
Any shock that has a shaft that uses a single nut and bushings above and below the upper shock mount should never be fully tightened. That fully compresses the two rubber bushings which can cause noise and doesn't let them do their job correctly. The top shock mounting shaft has to be able to move and not be bound up. Most install directions that come with shocks clearly indicate how much the top bushings are to be compressed. Most of the time there's even a graphic. In most cases you're suppose to "slightly" compress the bushings and then stop tightening.
That sentensed confused me that's why i asked.Geezer is saying that it has to move.
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:50 PM   #10
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This has been an issue for years now; I'm surprised noone has brought this up.
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