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Window Regulator Replacement Guide

82K views 71 replies 41 participants last post by  MarcL 
#1 ·
Hello! First off, I want to thank everyone for giving me the confidence to perform this task. I had initially thought the window regulator would be too hard to replace. After reading several posts, most stated that it was very easy to do. I decided to follow the various descriptions and instruction to successfully install the new regulator. Several posts had requested pictures and a guide for the job. I decided to document the process and make a PDF for it. Hopefully others will find this guide useful and give them the confidence to save some money and gain a greater appreciation for the inner workings of their car. Any feedback and comments are welcome. Thanks again!

PDF Download
 
#3 ·
hey danovotny.......I guess you had trouble with your windows then since you're a sedan.... tell me, did they even work and all that? like, did the motor work? I've got that problem where both rear windows don't open and all that; tried to replace the motor, but there's not enough power going to it, if any. I'll look at the how-to of course [thumb]
 
#5 ·
front regulators should be the same, except I think there's one less torx screw in the panel, and of course it's all backwards......the rest should be the same :)
 
#6 ·
did they even work and all that? like, did the motor work?
In my case, the motor was still functional, but the cable had come disconnected from the clip. When I would press the button to roll the window up and down, I would hear the motor turn over, but since the cable was broken, the white clip and the window would not move at all.

Any tips for doing the front regulators?
I can't speak from experience, as I have only done the back ones. I would make the same assumption that mikebontoft did, that they shouldbe the same.
 
#7 ·
ah yeah see.....when I try, I get nothing... thankfully to a school funded alldata pro subscription, I can figure out what it is :)
 
#8 ·
So, I had my replacement job fail me today. When I tried to roll down the window, the track went down, but the window didn't follow. I had made certain that the window was tightly fitted into the white clip. Did I miss something like a clip or bolt that attached the window to the clip? There was no pin joining the regulator clip and window as I have heard described in other posts?
 
#9 ·
yeah Haynes manual says there's a pin of some sort, so you might want to investigate that and probably get a replacement [:p]
 
#13 ·
I got the part from a Ford dealership, so I don't know the part number off of the top of my head. I'm sure if you called a dealership and told them your car info, and which door it is for, they would probably be able to get you the info, even if you don't wind up buying it from them.
 
#14 ·
manual windows?

first off good job with the pics and directions....

if you could help me out i'd greatly appreciate it. my car has manual windows. there is a knob that runs off of what the manual version of the window regulator is. this know goes through the door panel, through a plastic spacer and into the handle used to roll up and down the window. APPERENTLY... a clip holds this "knob" into the handle that rolls up and down the window.

after pulling on that handle pretty hard the knob broke in half. i am going to try and gets some jb weld and see how it holds up, but i highly doubt that it will work.

is the piece that i need to replace (what is called a window regulator for a car with power windows. maybe even for a car with manual ones not sure) the same with the exception of the handle on mine and the electric on yours?
 
#15 ·
Hhhmm....

I don't have any experience other than my own car on this topic. I would imagine that they would be two completely different part numbers, as the electric regular I put in had zero interaction outside the inner door panel. However, I would assume that it would still be called a "window regulator" for both manual and power windows.

Anyone with manual windows around to help out?
 
#18 ·
i just changed my tonight. not kidding about that stupid pin. that was the hardest part. i lined that up with the ovalish hole in the the door structure which you might be able to see. the cable is kind of in the way but a small screw driver or pick will move it out of the enough to get it started. part number for the right rear regulator is 6s4z=5427000-a and has core price of $30.00 and the spacer part number is xw4z-5423a44-aa. and the two pieces come attached...so you might to use a file or sand paper to smooth the machine edge after you seperate the two pieces as mentioned in the how to above. run the window up and down before you put the door panel back together, too.
 
#20 ·
I doing this project as well...and expecting the pin to be quite a pain to deal with. I've removed the old broker regulator...and the pin remains in the window.

Do you guys think I can use that same pin, if I can find a way to remove it? I think removing it might be a tough problem, as it has the two pieces.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to remove the existing pin? Preferably in such a way as to re-use it?

Thanks for reading and your help.
 
#19 ·
am amazed that the window just sit on the regulater and that spacer gizmo holds the window there...appears the the piece that holds the cables together is not that strong not or a good design because that broke and allowed the the cable to unravel from the motor pulley. on airplanes we clevis, rod ends, and etc. not sure what ford used to keep the cable ends to together. hope this helps
 
#21 ·
I have a question. The regulators for ZX3 is not the same as the sedan is it? I need a drivers side one and I am keeping an eye on the scrapyard. ZX3's are rare around here.
 
#22 ·
I recently changed out the rear passenger door's power window regulator on a 2000 SE sedan. Is there a trick to getting the spacer back in? I was only able to get it to go in about 60% of the way. What I did was I reached my hand inside the door and first pushed the sleeve through (the sleeve went in without a problem), then I put the center-pin in and pushed on it. But I could only get it to go in about 60% of the way. Is there a trick to this or a special tool perhaps? Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks!
 
#23 ·
I'll be doing this soon, won't go up but pulls down...

As for the two piece pin, my shop manual says for the rear Windows you put the pin in the glass-center, then lower to guide, and gently Tao glass too seat..., let know id works...

As for cross fit, I think the ZX3 is probably different, but all first and second gen should cross relative to door position, I believe all ZX5, sedan, wagons use same doors....
 
#27 ·
Hoping I have reached the right forum for this. My 2001 se wagon's rear pass. power
window broke something inside. I can't figure how to release the glass from the transit on the power unit. Looks like maybe a job for a special tool but impossible to see exactly how to release the plastic pin that goes thru the glass. The cable came off the guides and something near the top of the unit appears bent. Apparently easy enuf to remove the whole power unit if you can release the glass. Gotta get it out to inspect before looking for parts! I did find a small piece of plastic inside the door that looks like it broke off the bracket that guides the part that holds the glass. Meanwhile have a small clamp applied to hold the window up. Any way to get some kind of a pictorial guide?
 
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