will a 450 Nm impact wrench remove the crankshaft pulley bolt on a 1.6 zetec SE petrol engine?
I have tried breaker bars, chain wrenches, rubber loop wrenches, long handle spanners, tapping with hammer and heat treatment, plus release oil; all with no effect at all except to bust the timing slots in the camshafts (with a timing bar). Spent endless hours on this scenario and its beginning to wear me down!!! ~ How the hell do I shift this bolt? I have also tried two very very strong men pulling in opposite directions which didn't work (except for causing one of them great personal injury!).
Advice please....
cheers, many many thanx!!!
PS: the pulley itself is smooth and flat with NO holes for a holding tool to insert. It's actually a double pulley with the larger one nearest to the block and a slightly smaller pulley in front of it.
I found the photo of your referenced tool kit and it appears that the "locking" pin is shorter than the "locating" pin which makes sense because I believe that the locking pin has to be contacting the crank web/counterweight in a different location because you'll be trying to rotate the crank in a counterclockwise direction when loosening the pulley bolt, as opposed to a clockwise direction when locating the crankshaft for timing the cams. My concern was because of these photos in post #4 here: http://passionford.com/forum/techni...se-the-zetec-camshaft-timing-locking-kit.html
so how do I use the crankshaft locking pin, as opposed to the timing pin? i.e. at what point does the crank need to be set (if it's different to the timing setting)?
NOTE: I use the shorter timing pin in the kit; the photo illustrates the longer of the two timing pins http://passionford.com/forum/techni...se-the-zetec-camshaft-timing-locking-kit.html ~ therefore my crankshaft is somehow different to the one in the photo, but yet in the kit you get two timing pins but only one locking pin so both variants of crankshaft use the same locking pin length despite the fact that they have different timing pin lengths.
my engine code is: FYDB1/SCAD LC
I did ring my local ford main dealer/agent and they said that this information is not available to the general public!! "Outrageous or what?"
As far as "locking" the crankshaft for countertorque purposes it doesn't matter what the location of crankshaft will be at, EXCEPT that you want to be using the correct pin, and it sure would be nice to know what the pin is supposed to be contacting on the crankshaft. The timing pin in the photo is used to locate the crank with the #1 piston at TDC (on the power stroke for cam timing purposes) by slowly rotating the crank clockwise until it (the machined flat) contacts the end of the pin as seen in the second photo. For countertorque you obviously have to have the crankshaft contact the socalled "locking" pin in the counterclockwise direction. I wonder if we are being fooled by the terms "locking" and "timing", and are these terms being used interchangeably? As you have suggested is it possible that the shorter pin in the kit is simply used with a different crankshaft/engine varient for "timing" purposes? How about the flywheel lock?
The timing pin in the photo is used to locate the crank with the #1 piston at TDC (on the power stroke for cam timing purposes) by slowly rotating the crank clockwise until it (the machined flat) contacts the end of the pin as seen in the second photo
Absolutely not! ~ there is a distinct difference in the robustness between the timing pin and locking pin/tool and they have different catalogue part numbers and they each serve a different purpose and task. They may also be of different lengths as you suggested previously?
Another method is to pressurize the cylinder.
If you have a compression test adapter (long hollow tube) you can get a fitting for an air compressor that threads into the tube to make a half-assed leak-down tester.
Fill the cylinder with air pressure, more the merrier, and that will help hold it in place. Far safer than using the starter (though I've done it that way too).
Just make sure the cylinder is at BDC, it'll center itself if it's anywhere but exact TDC so no real worries there.
When/if you fill the cylinder with air pressure you'll not be able to hold the piston anywhere but BDC. The pressure will force the piston down.
If you want to keep the timing close you can pressurize either #2 or #3. Can't recall which but the valves on one will be closed and you'll be able to keep #1 at TDC.
"When you fill a cylinder with air pressure you'll not be able to hold the piston anywhere but BDC, the pressure will force the piston down" ...."it'll center itself if it's anywhere but exact TDC so no real worries there."
I expect that you've already sorted this out, but if not.......if you're satisfied that this "locking" pin is the correct one then rotate the crankshaft to a location where you can install it (fully seat it) and then slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the crankshaft contacts the pin. Just as a trial/test I would back out the pin while applying ccw force to the crankshaft and see how many turns out (or threads) it takes before the crankshaft clears the pin. Hopefully it'll take several turns before the crank clears the pin. You should not have the pin "hanging on" by only a thread or two. If you're satisfied, then seat the pin, snug it up, and rotate the crank CCW again until it hits the pin. Ensure that the crank is seated against the pin when you go to loosen the pulley bolt.
today I received the locking pin (by post). The shaft is exactly the same length as the timing pin but A LOT thicker with a longer thread.
The flywheel locking tool has a list on the back of the pack which states ALL suitable models of ford/focus engine; my engine code is NOT in the list, therefore I conclude that it is unsuitable for my engine?
So looking like it's going to be the pin for next attempt. A ford garage near me has the original ford OEM part/tool (which is the same as mine) and they say that they use it all the time for cracking off crankshaft pulley bolts ~ plus a large breaker bar that delivers obscene amounts of torque!! [headbang]
Don't you hate it when a simple job turns episodic. Glad you found someone at a dealer that would talk to you. I'm not even doing the job and it gave me a headache. Just watch those knuckles! EDIT.......Damn just saw your latest post. If you look at the aformentioned photo of the timing pin installed and the crankshaft position with the #1 piston at TDC look at the position of the crankshaft web/counterweight of #2 cylinder which has the piston at BDC. It sure looks to me that with the piston just above BDC that if you intall the pin and then rotate the crank counterclockwise that the "large" part of the web/counterweight (rear) will come in contact with the installed pin. Don't you think? Seems to me that there has to be a location on the crank that'll come into solid contact with the pin.
Don't you hate it when a simple job turns episodic. Glad you found someone at a dealer that would talk to you. I'm not even doing the job and it gave me a headache. Just watch those knuckles!
It just "ramped" off the machined flat. But I can't see how the opposite side of the crank web/counterweight as seen in the photo won't rotate around (when rotated CCW) and hit the damn pin? It just hit me........that the crank web/counterweight position will be about where the FRONT web/counterweight position of #2 cylinder is at BDC as in the photo (they alternate/are staggered between cylinders). Look at the position of the pin and compare it with how it looks in relation to the adjacent web/counterweight (the front one for #2 cyl. and just on the other side of the bearing) and you can see where the pin should/will contact the crankshaft. I appears that if you rotate the crank CW so that #1 piston is just above BDC, install the pin, rotate the crank CCW until it hits the pin. Back out the pin to see if you've got a good "purchase". Also......can you not see the crank through the bolt/pin hole and check to see what the end of the pin is actually contacting? There are so many Zetec engine varients on your side of the pond. DO NOT put the piston at TDC. Are you sure that the short pin is not the correct one?
It just "ramped" off the machined flat. But I can't see how the opposite side of the crank web/counterweight as seen in the photo won't rotate around (when rotated CCW) and hit the damn pin? It just hit me........that the crank web/counterweight position will be about where the FRONT web/counterweight position of #2 cylinder is at BDC as in the photo (they alternate/are staggered between cylinders). Look at the position of the pin and compare it with how it looks in relation to the adjacent web/counterweight (the front one for #2 cyl. and just on the other side of the bearing) and you can see where the pin should/will contact the crankshaft. I appears that if you rotate the crank CW so that #1 piston is just above BDC, install the pin, rotate the crank CCW until it hits the pin. Back out the pin to see if you've got a good "purchase". Also......can you not see the crank through the bolt/pin hole and check to see what the end of the pin is actually contacting? There are so many Zetec engine varients on your side of the pond.
no I can't actually see in there at the mo, maybe with a torch and a mirror of some kind?
Whilst I was screwing the pin in and out (back and forth) it did hit "something?" at about the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions (on the crankshaft pulley)? But after it gave way the first time I used the breaker bar I didn't pursue it any further; I didn't keep turning with the breaker bar any further to see what would happen next, I simply removed the pin and left it at that and came straight back to the forum with my new dilemma?
I DID put the piston at TDC!
The shop manager assured me that the locking pin carried the code of my engine BEFORE he broke that one item out of a complete ford timing kit (for all ford engines).
The flat area above your red arrow........just above the step. I believe that the pin should be only put under a compression load, not a shear load. You should be able to "feel" for that area by threading the pin out/in while rotating the crank back and forth when the piston is about at BDC. When you can locate/feel that step you want to have the pin fully seated/torqued so that the end of the pin hits that flat area just "above" the step. If you can feel the pin bending (not a nice solid feel) at any time when attempting to break the bolt free........stop.
"you want to have the pin fully seated/torqued" ~ I can tighten this up but as I said before "the pin only fully inserts at TDC" i.e. when fully tightened at this position (the step) there WILL BE still about 3mm of thread showing outside the block! ~ OK?
-You don't have an air compressor.
-You have an automatic transaxle or you don't have a way to put the transaxle in gear with the brake on to hold the crank from rotating.
-Your locking pin doesn't seem to be doing the trick.
-You don't want to tow the car to the garage.
Ok - how about locking up the piston in the cylinder, head still installed?:
- I read, someone here uses thin rope inserted into the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place when changing out the valve guides/seals. Insert rope on the compression stroke, rotate the crank until the piston stops. Undo the crank bolt, but without cracking the head.
OR -
- Again on the compression stroke, fill the cylinder with motor oil and rotate the crank until the piston stops. You should have enough time before oil bleeds past the rings. (What about the head gasket?)
I haven't figured out what the conversion is for 'PSI to ft-lbs' in a 1.6 liter engine. Assuming you could, but don't exceed the rated compression of your cylinder the 'oil method' would give you a better distribution of force across the cylinder. (Insert compression gauge in spark plug hole if uncertain )
It might be messier than the 'rope' but the 'oil' would eventually flow past the rings. It doesn't appear you are in a hurry. You might get a little smoke when you start it up - again, depending on how long you let the oil drain past the rings. Don't really want to blow it out the exhaust - unless the neighbors need to be shown a little respect !
Insert Legal disclaimer here.......
Nope - won't work, bolt isn't reverse threaded. ....... Ah - Bring the piston 'back' from the combustion stroke when filled with oil at BDC.
-
Ok - how about locking up the piston in the cylinder, head still installed?:
- I read, someone here uses thin rope inserted into the spark plug hole
OR -
- Again on the compression stroke, fill the cylinder with motor oil. I haven't figured out what the conversion is for 'PSI to ft-lbs' in a 1.6 liter engine. Don't exceed the rated compression of your cylinder. You might get a little smoke when you start it up - again, depending on how long you let the oil drain past the rings?
the rope and the oil are worthy of consideration, thanks for that one! Let's just say I can't afford to rush or hurry this process; I'm not "throwing caution to the wind" ~ LOL.
This is fun? ~ this made me laugh, thanks for injecting a little humour into this scenario [popcorn] LOL.
No, I don't like that. The pin is made out of good stuff I'm sure, but I wouldn't put a big side load on it. It looks like the side of the counterweb should rotate CW (with the piston moving up some from BDC) enough to allow clearance to fully seat the pin......but a photo isn't the same as the real thing, and we don't know the Zetec varient in the photo. I hate quessing. Have you tried the short pin? You can't find a nice small, bright LED torch (or MAG light), and mirror, and have a peek? No Euro Zetec experts around? So the flywheel lock definitely isn't useable?
I don't know the shape/profile of the counterweight in the zetec SE "FYDB" engine and I would like to see a picture/diagram or [outline] drawing of this component if anyone has one or can even draw one? It almost feels like the sides of the counterweight are NOT flat/straight but curved diagonally from top to bottom [with no abrupt angle surfaces] i.e. a smooth curve?
You are right! ~ the picture may not be the "FYDB" derivative of the zetec SE engine at all? And I also don't like quessing either - LOL! Don't fancy having to take the sump off to get a bent pin out! Lol. Oh dear this is really bad. I feel intimidated and apprehensive about attacking the crank bolt with that pin now, whatever its position maybe! Could it even break part of the counterweight off with the side loading perhaps? Sounds worse than bumping the starter against the floor? LOL! Scratch head [idea]
The locking pin is the same length as the timing pin. There is also a longer timing pin that is chamfered at the end [like a point]. Three 'pins' in total, there is no shorter pin?
The flywheel tool? I'm just going by what it says on the pack [i.e. the engine codes] - mine isn't listed [FYDB].
Posted via FF MobileThat rope trick mentioned.... I`ve done it on motorcycle engines... 1/4 " rooe worked.... if all else fails... get enough into cyl. on compression stroke that piston stops well b4 top - better leverage for locking... reduces head pressure ... lots of leverage against head if it stops just b4 tdc - thats why more rope is good...
I don't think that you want to be either holding a piston, or hydraulicing a cylinder when applying maybe 300 ft/lbs of torque to this four banger's crank. I know of engines (admittedly long stroke radial and inverted aircraft engines) that could suffer a bent connecting/link rod (and they are made out of "really" good stuff!) when the engine was simply cranked over with the starter, and coming to a quick halt because oil in a lower cylinder (with time oil tended to drain past the piston rings to the top of the lower cylinders after shutdown) had not been cleared out prior to cranking it over. I don't think this would happen here for a couple of reasons, but I wouldn't risk it.
the_doc735.......If you can rotate the crank so that the piston is around the BDC position, and if you can get a look through the pin hole to see if you can find that (or a) vertical, flat surface on the counterweight that is directly in line (must be perpendicular) with the hole, insert a rod/stick/anything and make a mark inline with the outside surface of the block at the hole. Use that measurement to cut/grind the pin to length. I suppose you could also just get a length of "good" steel rod with a diameter just smaller that the hole thread and if you can find the appropriate perpendicular flat surface maybe it would be possible to "solidly" backup/jam the outside end of the steel rod solidly (and square) enough to hold the crank. I'm a nervous nelly as well thinking about the load on the block sidewall/hole threads etc. when applying the huge loosening/breakaway torque that this puppy appears to require.
I don't know the shape/profile of the counterweight in the zetec SE "FYDB" engine and I would like to see a picture/diagram or [outline] drawing of this component if anyone has one or can even draw one? It almost feels like the sides of the counterweight are NOT flat/straight but curved diagonally from top to bottom [with no abrupt angle surfaces] i.e. a smooth curve?
You are right! ~ the picture may not be the "FYDB" derivative of the zetec SE engine at all? And I also don't like quessing either - LOL! Don't fancy having to take the sump off to get a bent pin out! Lol. Oh dear this is really bad. I feel intimidated and apprehensive about attacking the crank bolt with that pin now, whatever its position maybe! Could it even break part of the counterweight off with the side loading perhaps? Sounds worse than bumping the starter against the floor? LOL! Scratch head [idea]
Posted via FF MobileFamiliar with the aircraft scenario, WWII aircraft often had engines hand cranked B4 starting to "clear" cylinders... The damage scenario in my understanding was from a quick fire on one cyl. then hydrolocking on another.... Current procedure to prevent is cranking with mags off before starting... So - not to worry as no cranking with plugs & wires hooked up right? (on those radials, hydrolock or a timing misfire (early) could sometimes blow a jug right off!)
If this bolt is as torqued on there as it appears (after rereading the whole thread) and assuming it ain't a LH thread, then maybe it's time just to grind the head off the bolt. This might be a better option than possibly doing more damage. That'll release the torque/get the pulley off.......removing the threaded bolt shank from the crank shouldn't be a problem (famous last words).........Sailor......supposedly starter torque could do it. I started working for a mid-sized airline in the late '60s and for about the first four years we still owned a DC3 (in an otherwise all large jet fleet) that was only used every so often for pilot training and prospective new pilot checkouts. Sometimes we got to "play" (prep for flight/runups). The "old guys" were paranoid insistant on always hand rotating the props (first, check both mags off) so many revolutions (twin row, geared prop) to ensure cylinders clear. Starting.......starter sw. ON......count so many blades before mags on/prime.......mixture rich, followed by some wonderful sounds/smoke. A large fire extinguisher always at the ready. But......thank goodness for gas turbines.
If this bolt is as torqued on there as it appears (after rereading the whole thread) and assuming it ain't a LH thread, then maybe it's time just to grind the head off the bolt. This might be a better option than possibly doing more damage. That'll release the torque/get the pulley off.......removing the threaded bolt shank from the crank shouldn't be a problem (famous last words).
or did you mean to just remove the outer edge of the bolt head and form the centre into the shape of the the bolt shaft so that there is something to hold on to with the locking grips? [to get it/'the shaft' out]?
how about using a dremel rotary tool with a thin carbide cutting disk where the bolt head 'rear face' meets the crank pulley pressure washer and make a grove right round the back of the bolt head? This would have the effect of making it look as though the bolt had not been fully tightened up in the first place i.e. about a 1mm gap between the bolt head and washer; do you see what I mean? This would surely relieve the torque/pressure? Then it would be a lot easier to turn with the breaker bar! ~ yes? [idea]
I can't re-use the bolt anyway - it's junk!
I have a dremel and an angle grinder. [popcorn]
...crowds now gather for every scheduled attempt. I'm hoping for a round of applause if I ever get the sodding thing out!!
I don't think that the factory would use threadlocker.....but maybe someone else did if you haven't owned the car from new. Grind the head off so that what's left is the shank dia. of the bolt......the pulley ain't held on by the bolt anymore. There should be quite a good "stub" left after the pulley comes off. The washer should help prevent pulley damage during this process. I know that access may not be easy. I would just start by cutting the hex points off and working inwards......unless you've got room to come in from the side and groove under the head (which would release the torque on the bolt as you've suggested). Make damn sure that you use a face guard!! Ignore the sidetalk on hydraulicing cylinders (a jug is a cylinder on an aircooled engine......the attach studs sometimes pulled out of the Al/Mg crankcase).
I don't think that the factory would use threadlocker.....but maybe someone else did if you haven't owned the car from new. Grind the head off so that what's left is the shank dia. of the bolt......the pulley ain't held on by the bolt anymore. There should be quite a good "stub" left after the pulley comes off. The washer should help prevent pulley damage during this process. I know that access may not be easy. Ignore the sidetalk on hydraulicing cylinders (a jug is a cylinder on an aircooled engine......the attach studs sometimes pulled out of the Al/Mg crankcase).
I don't like this. I found a UK website that had a PDF copy of a factory service manual section for "in car service" for Zetecs. The pulley bolt torque is supposed to be only 80-85 ft/lbs. I'm now wondering if someone has used Loctite/threadlocker on the damn bolt........with or without it I can't believe that yours is hanging on like it is. If it's been Loctited then you are going to have a major issue with removing the reminant of the bolt if you grind/shear the head off. And.......on another website someone had used Loctite because he couldn't hold the crank secure enough to get the required torque, so if you don't know the history of the car........maybe it is a possibility. Are you absolutely satisfied that you've impacted this sucker with enough oomph?? Can you have the car with the wheels on the ground and still access the pulley bolt? It's a manual tranny car, right?.......I'd sure like to see another try of impacting this sucker......put it in 4th or 5th gear......block all four tires on the backside, each with a standard brick (and parking brake on), and have another go at it with a good pneumatic impact gun (rent the compressor and gun if you have to). There will be some "windup" of the driveline, but it's unavoidable, but you shouldn't hurt anything but the bolt or yourself. Impact it until it breaks loose (be patient, it may take a LOT of "impacts".......but it's gotta come loose. On another UK website some chap stated that he figured it took about 250 NM (about 200 ft/lbs) to break his pulley bolt free.
I don't like this. I found a UK website that had a PDF copy of a factory service manual section for "in car service" for Zetecs. The pulley bolt torque is supposed to be only 80-85 ft/lbs.
I know about the 80-85 ft/lbs torque. That is why the guy at machine mart said the 450Nm impact wrench I bought would shift it with no problem, he was really surprised when I rang to say that it had no effect what-so-ever! [except to slightly round off the bolt hex head].
I'm now wondering if someone has used Loctite/threadlocker on the damn bolt........with or without it I can't believe that yours is hanging on like it is. If it's been Loctited then you are going to have a major issue with removing the reminant of the bolt if you grind/shear the head off.
There are 3 previous owners of the vehicle, it's a 2002 reg. The first one had it for a year and did 30,000 miles. The second one had it for about 3 weeks and hardly used it; he passed it on to his son who had it from 2003 - 2010 and clocked it up to 108,000 miles. The son assured me that he had never had the cam/timing belt changed, nor authorised any garage to remove the crankshaft pulley for any reason what-so-ever; he stated that the crankshaft bolt therefore should still be as it was when first manufactured by the Ford plant! Obviously I don't know if he was lying to me?
And.......on another website someone had used Loctite because he couldn't hold the crank secure enough to get the required torque, so if you don't know the history of the car........maybe it is a possibility.
.......I'd sure like to see another try of impacting this sucker......put it in 4th or 5th gear......block all four tires on the backside, each with a standard brick (and parking brake on), and have another go at it with a good pneumatic impact gun (rent the compressor and gun if you have to). There will be some "windup" of the driveline, but it's unavoidable, but you shouldn't hurt anything but the bolt or yourself. Impact it until it breaks loose (be patient, it may take a LOT of "impacts".......but it's gotta come loose.
Well now; only the front right wheel was raised, the rest were on the ground, the hand brake was on, the car was in 5th. gear, 'wheels choked', a spanner on each cam shaft [to lock], old timing belt still fitted, spark plugs in, a device holding both cam shaft pulleys steady [i.e everything I could think of totally locked up!]. I applied CCW force with the breaker bar on the crank bolt and applied CW FORCE on the pulley with a rubber strap wrench, but after a couple of seconds the rubber strap wrench slipped, the crank timing sprocket and pulley moved and jumped about three teeth on the old timing belt, the spanners shot off the cams and hit the under side of the bonnet with extreme force and speed and the cam retainer sprang out of position. I thought that I had applied 'one hell of a force' to that bolt? ~ which made no impression what-so-ever, just like the 450Nm impact wrench; i.e. no bolt movement [backwards or forwards].
I suppose I could try a chain wrench instead of the rubber strap wrench?
......the guy at machine mart said the 450Nm impact wrench I bought would shift it with no problem, he was really surprised when I rang to say that it had no effect what-so-ever! [except to slightly round off the bolt hex head]. I can't afford the 1000 ft/lbs air impact wrench. I can rent an air compressor but I would have to buy the air impact gun - and good quality ones aren't cheap! i.e. prohibitively expensive! [ÂŁÂŁÂŁÂŁ].
It's as if the bolt head is bloody well welded to the washer/pulley. I guess all you'll end up doing is rounding the bolt head off (more) before it loosens off or shears, or hurting yourself.......that's one helluva good bolt. Even with high strength threadlocker, with enough torque/a good impact wrench, and assuming solid countertorque and a good purchase, a bolt should still loosen off, or shear. I guess it's Dremel time.
It sheared! Dremeled a couple of mm right round the back of the head of the bolt & applied release oil. Borrowed a 1000 ft/lbs air impact wrench and compressor which had no effect! Re-inserted locking pin as advised 'here' and got 'a good purchase' applied 3 foot breaker bar yet again [in opposite direct /ccw] and it sheared off the head [of the bolt]. Pulley 'still!' looks pretty solid to me! As there are no lugs or holes in it to grab hold of I figure the only thing I can use is a regular three leg puller on the outside edge? The way this is going I figure that I could end up breaking the pulley or puller whilst it stubbornly and defiantly refuses to move [come off]! Also the locking pin will not come out; the more I try to unscrew it - the tighter it gets! Does this mean it is bent now? If I try to screw it out I think I will simply strip the thread in the bloke? So what now?
Oh yer I forgot that I had check the cam position with the flat timing bar, so as you might guess, this chipped off the small piece of both cams that form part of the timing slots; the lower more substantial part is still in tact and therefore I can still lay the timing bar horizontally across the 'timing flat of both cams' and the flat of the top of the head [in a straight line] for timing purposes.
Damn........I thought that the decision was that you were going to Dremel the head pretty much right off, or groove around the back of the head to relieve the torque, thus not requiring much/any countertorque? How did you ever get any grip on the bolt when you had ground the corners off? Unfortunately from square one the camshafts timing bar should not have been installed during any attempts at breaking the pulley bolt loose. The washer is off, right? The pulley is keyed to the crank with a Woodruff key which may be mashed over and holding the pulley on there......it may take a good pull to get it off. If the pin is bent enough causing it not to want to come out, then the only way I can see to resolve that, is to drop the sump, unfortunately.
I DID "groove around the back of the head to relieve the torque, thus not requiring much/any countertorque". I wrote: Dremeled a couple of mm right round the back of the head of the bolt & applied release oil. But by the fact that it still resisted massive countertorque seems to imply that the bolt shaft itself is totally jammed? i.e. the shaft resisted 1000 ft/lbs air impact - followed by a manual breaker bar and rather than begin to move [unscrew] it simply sacrificed it's own head instead [the point of LEAST resistance?]. I may have an immovable crankshaft pulley bolt shaft in there?
I didn't "ground the corners off" ? ~ I grooved it.
The washer is not off. I'm beginning to wonder if it is a washer or simply part of the pulley design [part of the mould/part of the cast]; when the bolt head is on it looks like a washer but now I think it is an integral part of the pulley itself by design [i.e. it just resembles one [a washer] in shape]
Woodruff key? You mean Allen key/grub screw?
I half heartedly used my 3 leg puller and the pulley didn't give way, [then again it wouldn't if there is a grub screw in the side holding it on - I'll have to look for that]. The trouble with the puller is that the central screw 'foot' has a larger diameter than the pulley bolt thread would be- so it won't pass through the centre of the pulley - only press up against it; and as the shaft of the bolt is still in the crankshaft pulley thread hole I can't feed anything into that hole in order to protrude out of it so that the central 'foot' of the 3 leg puller has something to push against. The central 'foot' of the 3 leg puller really needs a thinner rod extension that can pass through [the pulley] and push against the remainder of the crankshaft bolt thread. Can't find anything like that on the web but then again I don't know what to search for?
dropping the sump means having to put the engine mount back in as it is supported from underneath with a scissor jack and wood. Jack up the other side, remove oil, remove bolts and a new gasket to seal upon refitting the sump. How would I bend the locking pin back into shape to get it out of the block?
There should be a washer under the head of the bolt, so if the washer is still "hanging on" then it'll keep the pulley from coming off. You must still have some bolt head material "mushroomed" over the washer.
Grind the bolt head/shank flush with the surface of the washer until it comes off or you can see a distinct line indicating the bolt outside diameter/washer inside diameter. If it still "sticks" just get a sharp/flat podger under the washer and pry/pop it off the pulley. Is there rust?
I'm now not sure what you've done, but you have to lop off the head of the bolt. In other words, all you should have left is the end of the shank diameter of the bolt. If you grind it flush with the washer (photos of a 1.6 on a UK website clearly show the loose washer under the head of a removed pulley bolt) and reasonably flat it might help if you have to use a puller. The washer should be protecting the pulley during all this grinding. You won't see the keyway (groove) until the washer is off.
which UK website is that please? I'll take a look!
Obviously I can't see the back of the washer yet, but the front is NOT manufactured 'FLAT' - IT IS A DOME SHAPE!! i.e. a slight curve, highest point in the centre where the bolt head was previously situated!
^^^ Grinding until you see round circle is necessary to remove ALL of the bolt head...
If you still see "hex" in the grinding area some head remains...
(No more side notes on aircraft, gets too confusing for ya - (Grumpy knows his [][][][][][]t on that...)
As to worries about removing the stub, once tension is off removal is generally MUCH easier - if locktite was used, a little heat to melt it could be applied - being careful of rubber nearby of course...
No! ~ I mean the stub end has taken the shape of the hex head because I dremeled along the back of each of the hexs' 6 flat sides. The head is 8mm thick - I don't think there can be any head left on the front of the crank? ~ but it may well have 'mushroomed' with the heat generated by the dremel cutting? What would have been the original depth of the bolt head 8mm? 9mm? 10mm? 12mm?
front
side
back
back outlined
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Focus Fanatics Forum
5.8M posts
189.1K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Ford Focus owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about SVT performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!