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Replace master cylinder clutch

206K views 157 replies 66 participants last post by  luing 
#1 ·
Well i just replaced my master cylinder clutch and would have loved for more indepth information and some pictures. So here are pictues and step by step information to go along with it.

1. First of this will be alot easier if you take out your front drive seat. Unplug battery as well.



2. start by removing the panal under your steering wheel.



3. Remove Hood release cable and your diagnostic cable.



4. You are going to need to remove your starter safty switch (black)



5. Continue by removing these 3 things
1- Speed control deactivation switch (Green) Turn left and lift small clip.
2- Stop lamp switch (Grey) turn right and lift clip
3- Clutch Position Switch (Red) turn left and lift clip.
They do not need to come off in any order what ever is easiest for you. When removed you will need to put these cables in a safe spot. I put them up by my steering wheel.



6. You will now need to remove both bolts that hold your master cylinder clutch in place. they are 10mm. (note do not pull master cylinder clutch out of compartment until you have drained most of your fluid out so you dont get a pond in your car.



7. after you take those bolts out you will now take off your clutch pedal and spring. (in picture the master cylinder is still on there)



8. You will now remove the pedal assembly so when you put your master clutch cylinder back on you do not snap the white rod like i did :/. There are 4 bolts.



9. In the engine compartment you are going to need to take out your battery and move your fuse box a little atleast i did on my 2004 focus.



10. Drain your clutch/brake fluid. you can use a turkey baster in this occasion.



11. When your fuse box is out of the way you will be able to see where the green rods come through into your engine bay as seen below.



12.There are small butterfly clips on the green parts you can use a small ice pick in order for you to get them out easily. be careful not to loose them there are new ones with your new part but its nice to know you have an extra one if you happen to loose one. (cover the lines with paper towel you do not want to get dirt in them!)



13. Now remove previous clutch master cylinder and install the new one in the previous order. connect all the lines and refill brake/ clutch fluid. Use dot 3 brake fluid. picked it up for about 5 bucks at my local autozone.

14. Heres the rough part it took me a good 45 minutes to find the bleed plug for my clutch you are going to need to bleed your clutch, and maybe your breaks. I did not need to bleed my brakes i left just enough in the reservoir to not need to do that.



You will need to pump your clutch multiple times. YOU WILL NEED TO PEOPLE to bleed your clutch and or brakes.

Goodluck! [ffrocks]
 
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#3 ·
You will need to pump your clutch multiple times. YOU WILL NEED TO PEOPLE to bleed your clutch and or brakes.
Personally, I hate people. That's why I have a vacuum bleeder kit. It's the fastest way to bleed brakes, and the most efficient. This is a pic of the Acutron version. A company named Miti-Vac has both plastic and metal versions. The Acutron looks a little heavier duty for about the same price as the cast metal MV. I use a cheap $20 plastic body Miti-Vac for brake jobs. It's done it's job for many years now.

 
#5 ·
GREAT pictures NotoriousOne - i just did mine last saturday and i'm wishing that these were up last week to help me out! for anyone who will be doing future CMC replacements, i also found that it was convenient to remove the drivers side front wheel to access the lower green rod.
 
#6 ·
thanks and when i was replacing mine i going wow i really wish i had some step by step with pictures so i made this hopefully it helps out some people!
 
#12 ·
you would need the mighty vac if you did it by yourself you cant bleed the cylinder without another person. It took me probably about an hour or 2. It was a multi day project for me i took it apart ordered part waited installed the part and bled it. If you have any questions feel free to PM Me.
 
#15 ·
Does anyone know is this set up is the same for a 2006 ZX3? I have the replacement part for it, and I'm gonna change it tomorrow, I won't lie, I'm kinda scared to do this. I'm really hoping the set up is the same as this. If anyone has any tips for me to make the job easier, I would truly appreciate it. Thanks everyone.
 
#17 ·
Follow the directions to bench bleed the unit before you install it. Make sure you have something to catch any leaking hydraulic fluid. Don't remove the reservoir cap until you are ready to bleed. Definitely remove the reservoir cap before bleeding, and fill to slightly above max. Rent or purchase a vacuum bleeder for bleeding. Clean up all your hydraulic fluid.
 
#19 ·
great detail, best i have found

I am new to this forum and thanks for the excellent write up. I just have one question. I am planning doing this myself this weekend after I was quoted $400 from a local repair shop. I am confused on the bleeding process. I am looking at your picture and do I need a hose to connect while a friend pumps the clutch??? If you have time and are still watching this post as it is a few months old I would appreciate any futher explination.

Thanks
 
#20 ·
I am new to this forum and thanks for the excellent write up. I just have one question. I am planning doing this myself this weekend after I was quoted $400 from a local repair shop. I am confused on the bleeding process. I am looking at your picture and do I need a hose to connect while a friend pumps the clutch??? If you have time and are still watching this post as it is a few months old I would appreciate any futher explination.

Thanks
The hose will help to keep the brake fluid from just spilling all over your transmission. I use a small zip tie to keep it on the bleeder valve. Put the other end into a container. If you dont have the Mighty Vac. You will need assistance.
Once you are all done following these excellent how to pics. You fill up the brake/master cyl reservoir . I have found it much easier to bleed by doing the following. Open the bleeder, have your buddy slowly push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. Close the bleeder and raise the pedal. Keeping an eye on the reservoir, dont let it get low. Do that how ever many times it takes to get a good stream of fluid. Then pump the pedal the old fashioned way. Pump, pump ,pump , hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleeder.Close the bleeder and raise the pedal. You will do this until no more air bubbles come out with the fluid. Keep an eye on the reservoir . If it empty`s you will have to start over, as there is now air back in the system. And lastly, before you go to drive the car, pump your brake pedal until it is good and firm. This way if you take off , you wont do the panic pump and e brake pull to stop. Just in case you got air in the brakes. They use the same reservoir...Let us know how it turns out. Or you need more help...
 
#25 ·
I changed the master cylinder last Saturday (03/20/2011). The clutch now feels a bit more firm as expected. The biggest difference is that now my clutch pedal is not slick with hydrolic fluid and no more fluid is dripping into my car. This took me about 3-4 hours to replace, keep in mind I am not experineced is auto work, this is the largest repair I have done on my own. I am sure it can be done faster by an experienced mechanic.

My biggest concern going into was where to find the bleed valve. But once I removed the battery and the battery housing (as instructed and using the photo as reference), the valve is easy to spot and and easy to get to.
 
#27 ·
Sweet write up[thumb], its much better with pictures. I was driving home thinking "Wow, my clutch is soft" then pulled in my driveway and my foot slipped off the pedal, sure enough, drip drip drip. I'll have to do this tomorrow, if i can get parts. How much for the clutch master cylinder?

My local ford never stocks parts for foci, would it be alright to limp around on a leaky clutch cylinder, just a couple days? What are the chances of catastrophic failure? My body guy was planning on taking it this Friday to install some stuff and I am not sure if I should let him drive 30 minutes in traffic with it.


thankyou
 
#28 ·
Well if it blows. in your car the fluid will run out and your car wont be able to get in or out of gear and you wont have brakes. cause the clutch fluid and the brake fluid are together. But thats worst case scenario. I got my master cylinder from advance auto parts had to order it online it cost me about 30 bucks. took about 2 days to get here.
 
#29 ·
I got mine from Autozone for about $47, they had it in stock. Depending on how bad it's leaking you might be able to limp it along for a bit, but you'd have to keep adding to the fluid reservoir. Might not be a good idea if it's literally dripping in front of your eyes, mine was a slow leak.

+rep to Notoriousone, I wish I'd had these pictures to help me out a month ago, would have made things much clearer and faster. Good write up man.
 
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