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Very frustrated!

16K views 104 replies 24 participants last post by  agentmaroon108 
#1 ·
[:(]
ok so I have a 2000 se sport so carfax calls it...2.0/ 16 valve zetec / DOHC/ power windows, door locks and mirrors...it has an issue no one can seem to figure out...first of all it throws absolutely no codes.....it has a MAJOR hesitation, bucking, jerking problem under 2000 rpms...once past that point runs fine..If the A/C is on, it will stall out if going slow and will stall if at an idle....I've changed the tps, spark plugs, fuel filter, Ign. coil, cam shaft sensor and crank shaft sensor.....what could it possibly be?...The fuel delivery module was replaced as per the recall....gas mileage is still pretty decent...the alternator went and I just had it replaced and I was hoping by some miracle that may have been the problem...this issue has been going quite some time and I don't think I can go another summer with no A/C here in GA where it's already in the 90's...i was told maybe the Idle Air control...any thoughts on that part or anything else it could be?...I've already put way more into the car then I paid for it and can't keep doing it [bigcry]...hoping it's something so simple everyone just over looked it…
Thanks in Advance....Colleen

one other thing I forgot to mention...if I put it in drive , keep my foot on the brake and step on the gas, it sputters and pops and backfires under the hood..Not sure if this issue is related to the one above or something totally different. [bigcry]
 
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#5 ·
What brand sparkplugs?
Motorcraft are recommended and tend to be the best option.

I wouldn't think anything you've replaced would have any bearing on the problem. Not sure who told you to replace all those things but, I would have more caution listening to them.

Has the A/C been serviced?
If not, it might have some bearing of the 'sputter'. Low system pressure can cause the compressor to cycle more often. Possibly often enough that the IAC can't compensate fast enough.


Backfiring and such sorta sounds like you may have a vacuum leak or the cam timing may be off. Has the timing belt been done?
It's possible whoever did the work didn't get it quite correct. This is something you can check yourself rather easily. Simply bring #1 to Top Dead Center, remove the valve cover and see if the slots in the drivers side of the camshafts line up. If they don't, cam timing is off and will need to be fixed.

Also, one of the sponsors has a scan tool loaner program that you might want to look into. 1turbofocus is his screen name and there is a thread floating around about his program, Xcal loaner program in the search box should turn it up. It's free professional help and well worth your time.
 
#9 ·
By fuel issue you meant fuel filter? Since it is under 2,000 rpm's...

A local mechanic who I've been going to for years changed all that stuff for me...AND he changed the timing belt for me...but I don't remember having this problem right after he changed it a few years back..this has been going on now for the past year...anyway, I will get second opinions from now on....I do remember someone saying it could be timing but then I also heard if it was the timing it would run bad all the time...UGH!! I AM SO CONFUSED! especially cause I really don't know much about cars....I will print out your response and see if my brother can check it out for me...first though, I will try the easy approach and clean the IAC if I can find it...I have to try and find a picture of where it is... <sigh>....thanks
IAC is on the bottom of the intake manifold although I don't think that's the culprit.
 
#8 ·
A local mechanic who I've been going to for years changed all that stuff for me...AND he changed the timing belt for me...but I don't remember having this problem right after he changed it a few years back..this has been going on now for the past year...anyway, I will get second opinions from now on....I do remember someone saying it could be timing but then I also heard if it was the timing it would run bad all the time...UGH!! I AM SO CONFUSED! especially cause I really don't know much about cars....I will print out your response and see if my brother can check it out for me...first though, I will try the easy approach and clean the IAC if I can find it...I have to try and find a picture of where it is... <sigh>....thanks
 
#10 ·
Posted via FF Mobile Ya check the PCV hose, those are a known issue. Was the battery changed or checked? Maybe check your battery connections. Make sure your intake system is clean. Take out the MAF sensor and spray it with MAF cleaner. Make sure the connection is good too. I assume its had an oil change. If non of that works, maybe run a carbon cleaner through your fuel tank and your engine, like Seafoam. Keep us updated Colleen. The focus really is a goodcar and so much fun to drive. People love them, we would love to help and see you driving your car.
 
#11 ·
@DrkKnight614...Just had the alternator and a brand new Interstate battery put in yesterday...I have the oil changed on schedule...and I actually, cleaned the MAF sensor myself ( yay for me)...I will try a carbon cleaner through the fuel tank and engine as you suggested...here's another thing, when the A/c is on, I said while driving slow it will stall or if it's at an idle it will stall but it will run fine with the A/C on in Park...as soon as i put it in drive with a/c on, it will jerk, sputter and stall.....anyway, I will try what you suggested and I do like my zippy little car as I call it but lately, not so much....
 
#12 ·
Posted via FF Mobile Does the engine act the same way when your driving? Weird that it be fine in park but not while driving. Thats awesome you cleaned it yourself...you must have some mechanical abilities lol. You dont have any codes thrown or anything? Like a check engine light?
 
#13 ·
Nope , no check engine light, no codes....I am not sure what an XCAL is but I put the word out for any fanatic in GA that has one..don't think I will have much luck with that...so , now after I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, the car is now idling rough..it always did idle smooth....boo hooo...wonder if I sprayed to much stuff on it.....guess I will just have to drive it like this till it dies...I can't put another penny in to it...it's draining my bank account dry....
 
#14 ·
Posted via FF Mobile You have to let it dry after spraying the cleaner on it. Shake it around and then let it sit for a while. You also need to disconnect the battery when doing this cleaning as well. If you didnt disconnect the battery the car thinks there is a problem that the sensor disconnected. Leave the battery disconnected for at least 15 minutes. The XCAL is a tuner, but it also acts as a code reader to see if you have any thrown codes. You dont need an XCAL to check for codes.
 
#19 ·
Disconnecting the negative (black) cable is safer. When you do the positive first, it lets out quite a bit of sparks and can even ignite fumes if they are present

Tom suggested finding someone in your area to let you borrow it so he can see what's going on.

Have you tried testing the Idle Air Control valve yet? Idle is supposed to raise when the A/C switch is turned on, otherwise it will kill the engine as it sounds like it is doing. If it is in the wrong position (IE letting too much or too little air into the system) it can also cause a sputtering condition from an off-idle acceleration.
 
#20 ·
Posted via FF Mobile I always thought positive because that is the one that goes to all the electronics. But yes I do realize that if it touches a metal part of the car you can have a short. So yes maybe negative is better.

Btw this might help as well.


Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and performance. To begin this process:

1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.

2. Put the gearshift in P (Park) (automatic transaxle) or the neutral position (manual transaxle), turn off all accessories and start the engine.

3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.

5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.

6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.

• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.

• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned.
 
#21 ·
Posted via FF Mobile Found some other threads that may help.

According to this thread your ECU also controls the voltage that is being used depending on what is running. Like A/C on, increase voltage. So yea maybe there is something up with the ECU. Try reseting it, follow the relearn instructions posted above and see if that works, hopefully it does. Easy fix.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4195402#post4195402


Also found this about the IAC.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262990
 
#22 ·
I am going to try everything you have said and also, I have to find someone to check the IAC because I think you have to lift the car to get to it....hey I see you are from Long Island...I am originally from Long Island...Patchogue, in Suffolk County..
 
#24 ·
I had this same prob in my focus it would die if the rpms got too low or stopped at a red light i would have to kick it in neutral and rev the engine to keep it from dying. I bought a tuner from sct and used its stock tune, car idles way better hasnt shut off on me yet. But I also was in a accident which caused the timing to be off a bit. I havent messed with data logging but from what I read can show you what's the prob...


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=37.671201,-121.034428
 
#28 ·
I know someone who can check the IAC, timing and sparkplug wires for me...Hoping it's just a dirty IAC...(saying prayers)

As far as moving to the deep south, I am a single mom who when her parents moved down here would have lost her babysitter...we went halvsies on a house so my parents, my son and myself all live together...besides, most of the rest of my family is down here..just a brother still in Patchogue and a sister in Orlando...
 
#29 ·
I'm voting IAC. My car never threw a code and anytime I came to a stop sign or light I would have to give it a little gas while holding the brake to keep it from stalling. I wasn't able to turn the A/C on either cause it would stall almost instantly if I wasn't moving. Like Mike said if you turn on your A/C and your rpms don't raise up, and your car stalls instead. I'd say it's your IAC. You can reach it by jacking the car up but it's up in there and tricky to get to. Good luck.
 
#30 ·
That's what I am going to do...first have the IAC checked but let me ask you this: would the IAC make the car pop, sputter and backfire under the hood when putting car in park with foot on brake and stepping on the gas ( like power braking I guess) ...it does all that really bad when you do that...
 
#32 ·
u need to replace the mass air flow only part on the car that would cause so many problems plus the old saying it the mass air flow never tells on it self (meaning no code) unplugg the mass air flow car suppose to idle but will have no power try cleaning but its a 50/50 shot it may help
 
#35 ·
Update:: bought a new IAC ..not the problem..next in line is to check the timing and then the MAF which was cleaned but didn't help.....all I can think about is how much $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ this car is costing me!!! I think I might put a few bullets to it and put it out of it's misery..
 
#36 ·
Somethings just won't stand out clearly to fix! My only experience similiar to your problem goes back to an old points and carbuerated ('74 Maverick) that had need of points adjustment and poorly gapped plugs. But that doesn't translate so well to a computer controlled fuel injected car.
You might want to go through pulling the coil off and inspecting the plugs and assume the gap on the plugs is wrong. Clean all contacts and make sure you apply new dielectric grease on all connections. Check the ground connections as well, or run a supplimentary ground wire. Also verify your voltage. Some computers can get very finicky when running on marginal voltage levels.
Its hard (for me) to come up with a likely suspect that wouldn't throw a code. Of course some codes don't light the MIL.
 
#38 ·
Thanks...the guy that has the car now said that after changing the IAC and it not solving the problem, he was determined to find out what the problem is...I will print this out and show it to him to see if he checked all the stuff you mentioned....but I think everything has been checked and rechecked...money is now becoming a major issue[facepalm]...if he can't figure it out...it 's time to sell it as is or just put it out to pasture for a future date...will keep y'all posted..
 
#40 ·
I don't have much experience working on newer cars so I can't comment on the codes and whatnot, but I had similar problems on a 78 vet and 88 jeep. My tuning was a little off. Loosen the distributor with the car and a/c on and turn it a tiny bit in either direction. See if the idle improves. It sounds like its firing abnormally. Sounds like you checked the plugs and wires, but I really think this is a problem with abnormal firing so check the distributor.

This may seem intimidating but it's a 5 minute job which may fix the problem. Locate the distributor (I'm sure there are pictures on line somewhere. There is a bolt which holds the base of it down. Loosen this and turn. When you find a good spot tighten it back up. You can also do this with a timing light but I never understood all that. I've gone with trial and error and it works pretty well.

Good luck

P.S. If anyone reads this and feels I have mislead her please let me know. It's possible I'm way off, but I figured it's worth a shot.

Also, check and make sure all the wires and tight on the distributor. Got my car back from the mechanic one day and he told my engine was shot. Running real bad. Popped the hood and one of the distributor wires wasn't on all the way [:(!]. I'll try not to vent about my hatred for that mechanic
 
#42 ·
Posted via FF Mobile How much have you spent? Maybe would of been better of buying a new engine?[/Q

I bought this car used a few yrs ago because my 99 ford ranger 3.0 v6 used to much gas going back and forth to work especially I think after putting bigger tires on it....I figured I would get a little economical commuter car...I paid $1900 for it ...I think within the last 2 yrs, I've probably spent well over that on crap for that car....I was really wanting to keep it going because my Ranger is in excellent condition and just turned 91k miles..I try to use it sparingly...depending on the outcome of this major issue with the car, I may just have to use my beloved Ranger as my primary vehicle ....I really like my zippy little car but .......enough is enough......
 
#43 ·
Sounds like classic ignition issues to me, and I'll third or fourth the suggestion about plug wires.

Intermittent misfires don't always cause Check Engine Lights or throw codes. You said the plugs and coil pack were replaced, the plug wires SHOULD have been replaced right along with them.

Chances are good now that your continued misfires from bad plug wires have damaged your new plugs, and possibly your new coil pack.

My suggestion - buy 4 new plugs and a NEW set of wires and replace them all at once, start fresh. Pray the coil pack isn't damaged (they are generally a little more robust than the other parts, so you might get off OK).
 
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