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Im curious how are you all doing it?

4K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  forcedfocus 
#1 ·
ok.. it seems that every time i try to take my car down the track even coming out of the hole kinda easy i break either the lower dog bone mount or the bracket the the dog bone mount mounts to. my best 60' was 2.43 and i broke the mount on that run.. even coming out really soft then nailing it in 2nd i break the mount.. i have tried the steeda mount the mac mount poly inserts in the stock mount and they all fail eventually.. what are you all doing to get your 60's down so low without breaking the mount? if i could get my 60's down that low and run my high setting i think i could get my car into the 11s.. on that run that i did a 2.43 on my low setting with a broken mount i ran a 13.86 at 114.7mph... but i am tired of fixing my car every time i want to take it to the track
 
#2 ·
First do you have all three after market motor mounts installed.
front lower stress bar by FSWerks
Front Energy Suspension control arms bushings
I prefer to have Koni adjustable shocks at the rear and put em on full stiff
if you see my vids on my Flickr page you will see my car has no movement at all on take off
 
#3 ·
Ditto.

I have all of this minus the Koni shocks. I'm hitting 2.0 60ft on drag slicks without issues. I was getting 2.2-2.1 60ft on street tires with no problems. The control arm bushings and lower stress bar worked wonders for wheel hop.
 
#5 ·
dude there just has to be something with it making it break those mounts. i landed 2.0 60ft times on a bone stock car except for some 18x7.5 rims with street tires. that is mounts and everything. the only thing i can think of that would cause that is that perhaps your motor/tranny is trying to twist weird somehow and that is what is causing the breakage. that bracket and mount will take an incredible amount of force when that force is just from the motor pulling against the subframe trying to spin itself around in the engine bay. but if you add a little bit of lateral twist to that force it will break it much much easier because the mount and bracket wasnt designed to be twisted. it could be one of your top motor mounts is too soggy to take the punishment. i found out that if you have a poly mount on the driver side and on the tranny and a factory on the passenger side that the poly mount (the metal mount itself) will break on the driver side the first time you snag a gear too hard. its like the soggy mount is letting the motor twist and give on that side but since the other side is so hard it doesnt give and all that pressure being exerted ends up breaking the mount. perhaps you have something similar going on. i really dont know though, im just grasping at straws here pretty much.
 
#6 ·
i do have all the mounts and the ingalls stiffy.. i do not have the other stuff that you are talking about though. and i can say when i have to change it after it breaks it is a job and a half.. it doesnt want to line up very well at all..
 
#7 ·
With your kind of power I'd just use 3 solid mounts and poly control arm bushings.

I run 2 poly mounts and one solid mount with some poly isolators and get absolutely no wheel hop.
14 runs the other day on drag radials, including a few 5K RPM with no clutch slipping and still no wheel hop (just some spinning).

But seriously with your torque I'd run 3 solid mounts with no isolators.
I think you will easily contort the poly material and allow engine twisting.
 
#8 ·
I agree. I know you DD yours, but if your breaking them constantly, then you may want to get a solid mount to swap out for when you go to the track or for the season. You'll still be changing them on a regular, but atleast you you won't have to keep buying mounts.
 
#9 ·
i know i have messed up every poly mount on the lower dog bone mount i have used.. but the only problem with the solid mounts is i drive this car daily.. wouldnt that be too harsh for daily driving?
 
#10 ·
i have been designing a new bracket made from steel that mounts all the way around to the front of the tranny mounting to about 6 bolts that all mount to the block.. then finding a new mounting point on the k member.. i figured if i just ran the steeda upper mounts and the solid lower mount with my new bracket it wouldnt be too bad.. and i doubt very seriously that i will break the bracket i am making. i just dont understand how so many other people are launching alot harder than me and not breaking stuff.. but i dont think i am breaking it on the launch. i think i breaking it on my 1st-2nd gear shift and i getting too much wheel hop.. i would love to get some traction bars i know they would help but i would have to remake my down pipe if i did that.. its in the way of the middle bar for the lakewood traction bar setups.. i am thinking of when i get the money back up i will go to topspeed and get them to make me a custom set of traction bars..
 
#12 ·
yeah i guess your right.. i wonder if i can fabricate a mount that mounts to several points that i can put several ingalls style shock absorbers.. or even something that allows me to lock it down when i take it to the track.. hmmm... now you all got me thinking..
 
#13 ·
You're working at this all backwards.
If you want to play at the track, you have to FIRST have a proper suspension setup and then add power.
You've added a ton of power and now you're trying to band-aid pieces here and there.
 
#14 ·
what do you mean suspension pieces.. i have the h&r cup kit full suspension with upgraded sways.. quaife diff.. are you talking about the poly control are bushings?
 
#15 ·
Sorry I wasn't clear. When I say suspension, I mean ALL pieces not connected to the frame.
Anything that flexes, contorts, squats, twists etc. of its own accord when you stomp the throttle.
This includes the engine/drivetrain and suspension.

Can you fabricate your own parts?
If not, I may be able to help.

This is my solid mount:
 
#16 ·
i could probably do something like that.. i might have to try that.. is it really bad driving it like that? my question is.. i have poly upper mounts the steeda kit.. you saying thats not good enough for my car?
 
#17 ·
I'm saying that without a doubt your current mounts are allowing excessive engine movement.

The solid mounts will add a considerable amount of vibration and amplify the exhaust sound too.
Your car will be noisy, loud and have tons of vibrations.
Everything in your rear view mirror will be blurry.
 
#18 ·
everything is already blurry...lol.. and its not a quite car.. thats why i have loud stereo..haha.. although it rides pretty nice.. like a mix between a race car and sport compact..
 
#19 ·
All I have done for motor mounts is the passenger side steeda and a Cfm dogbone and the traction bars. I pulled a 1.906 60ft leaving soft
 
#20 ·
i want the traction bars.. bad.. but i would have to modify them to make them work.. i bet that would fix my problem.. i agree im getting alot of flex and not really sure why..if i could do 1.9s on the 60' i would be running 12s on my low setting..
 
#22 ·
my down pipe is right in the way of the middle bar.. and i dont want to change my down pipe.. the way it is run i have cold ac and good spool time on the turbo.. i love the way it performs.. its perfect in my opinion.. just need more traction..and it would be cheaper for me to modify the traction bars..
 
#23 ·
so what do you do to get it out of the whole that quick and not break stuff.. you not too far behind my power level.. and i have broken these parts on the low setting which you are higher than my low setting.. i mean i preload the drive train and that seems to help a bit but it still breaks.. alot.. i think its mainly when i go from 1st to 2nd..
 
#24 ·
Honestly on my 1.9 60ft I didn't preload or anything. I let the clutch out slow until I feel it grab and then let it out pretty fast. My next dragstrip I will be much more aggressive and on the 2-step
 
#25 ·
breaking the bracket might actually be a blessing. that part was made to be the weak link for a reason. thats why it is so cheap to replace. im not saying that $40 doesnt add up after awhile but you need to think. if you strengthen that to a level to where it is literally unbreakable then what is the next weak link in line? the transmission case itself. im pretty sure that costs more than $40 to replace. your idea about using half a dozen places around the engine and tranny to brace it might work fine if it evenly distributes the load but i would be careful with that. im not sure if i would go quite that far just yet.

ive been thinking about this a pretty good bit since yesterday. there has to be something causing the engine/tranny to twist more than it should. especially since you have already verified that people with nearly identical and higher power numbers than yours are going out and launching harder and pushing their cars harder without breaking that part. there is something specific to your car that is not right and is causing this problem and adding more parts to the car that are not present in other setups that work probably wont solve it. im not saying that traction bars wont help but i doubt they will stop it completely. you know you have a small amount of adjustment with the top motor mounts where you can scoot the engine around the bay an inch or two in any direction... maybe they arent aligned properly. or another possibility might be with the dogbone mount itself. you said you have torn up the bushings in the dogbone on several occasions and that they are poly bushings. has one or both of the bushings in the dogbone been torn up every time you've broken the bracket? if so then the engine would have about an inch or two of free play where it can snap back and forth along a break/crack in the bushing and that snapping motion would be most severe on a hard launch or when changing gears hard. i did this on one occasion and it was the only intellectual solution i could draw because after i fixed the mount i never had the problem again. get into contact with top speed. they are developing solid motor mounts. see if you can snag a solid dog bone from them and try it then. if you still break the bracket then at least you know that isnt your problem and im sure if you wanted you could turn around and sell the mount for as much as you have in it. there are always people on here who are asking for solid motor mounts.
 
#26 ·
While I agree with the engine play part, I disagree with only making the dog bone mount solid.
All three mounts are to blame. The dog bone mount happens to be the one to break first, which means the other two must have a significant amount of play to allow for the additional flexing when the dog bone mount breaks and he's able to keep driving.

If he only makes the dob bone mount solid with the other two squish and they permit flex, then he'll just bust the bracket again and again.

Make all 3 solid and don't look back.
Don't leave a weak link.
 
#27 ·
Guys not everything breaks parts will hold up to the power and be perfectly fine. but see if you can get a in car view of how you drive, might be a problem might not
 
#28 ·
i have always thought that my alignment of my motor is incorrect due to it is so hard to get the dogbone mount to line up to change it.. but even with the dog bone mount out i can not move it by hand.. now when it is broken i cannot get on it due to the whole engine and everything shakes really bad so i have to baby it to get it home.. and maniac i disagree with it being a blessing.. here is the way i see it.. the probelm is still to weak of other problems with other things.. i am pushing close to 5x the power out of this car than comes stock right.. so my goal is to make the parts so that the parts can handle the power.. otherwise what is the point of having that kind of power.. that is the reason i didnt push the power higher.. i cant hook up what i have.. so until i can hook up the 408whp and 415wtq i will not go higher.. but i keep breaking this part and other cars in my power are not.. the only thing i can see different is either my driving.. or the amount of tq i have.. most people even at my power level done have my tq.. so its investigation time.. and possible fabrication time so this is no longer a problem...
 
#29 ·
maybe you should take a stock passanger side motor mount bracket: slot the holes where it attaches to the frame, see if the bottom mount will line up better, weld a washer to the passanger bracket so it will stay in place (or something?), and then try it out.

I broke my trans bracket once; I think it happened when I swapped mounts, because I had it in too much of a bind.
 
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