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MPG Mods -

12K views 38 replies 14 participants last post by  IngotMK3 
#1 ·
Just picked up a new 13 hatch - what is everyone doing to up the mpg?

Im looking do intake, plugs and wires for just now but whe is everyone upgrading or using?


TIA
 
#2 ·
The car uses coil over plug coil packs, it doesn't have ht leads in the same manner as the older cars.

As to intake and exhaust modifications the Steeda and FSWerks combination seems to be popular, but you really need to search as most of these things have been discussed before.
 
#5 ·
I love good gas mileage and think the Focus does an excellent job of maximizing fuel economy with this car. They use some pretty neat technologies such as grill shutters, ADFSO (Active Deceleration Fuel Shut Off), electric power steering, "smart battery management", various engine mods, lots of aerodynamic treatment, low friction lubes and oils, low rolling resistance tires, etc. The best thing you can do to reach that potential is improve your driving style. To that end, they even provide optimal shift indicators and performance monitors you can take advantage of.

Other than driving style, keeping your tires properly aired and filters clean, there isn't much you can do in the way of improvement IMO.

If you read up about the snorkel removal, you'll find some seemed to improve performance in conjunction with other mods. Others reported a decrease in mileage. Maybe there was a reason Ford put it there in the first place?

As for the K&N, I used to be a fan, found it sounded cool but didn't really improve mileage any more than installing a clean filter. True, K&Ns admit more air, but since A/F ratio is closely governed and the stock filter operates nowhere near max air flow, the extra air is superfluous. You do get extra dirt in your engine though, dirtier oil and shorter engine life, if you're not planning on keeping the car for a long time, no-one will probably notice. Another (different forum) member who lives in AZ calls them "silica injectors"

In reality, filters are there to keep engines clean and minimize wear. It's hard to beat paper filters as this report indicates:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
Other comparisons you can find on the internet show similar results.

If it were otherwise, wouldn't you think Ford (and others) would use them rather than spending hundreds per car on MPG upgrades?

Congratulations on your new car! You'll find lots of other great ideas to customize your car with on the forum! [8)]
 
#6 ·
You gotta look at it from a cost stand point to. Intake and exhaust may get you maybe 1 mpg more. but the cost for that extra mpg is rediculous. What you could do is replace your tires with Lrr tires when the time comes, switch to 0w-20 motor oil, etc. I dont have the new focus but I have a fiesta. So I do plan on switching to better tires when the time comes.
 
#7 ·
Is it wise to switch to a lighter oil? Wouldn't ford suggest it if it was safe to run it? The new mazda 3's run it so i am sure if ford thought it was safe they'd run it too. The new mazda3's run the engine on high idle for a bit when you first start it, maybe it has to do with the grade of oil.
 
#9 ·
From my experience, cold air intakes and certain drop in filters give only the slightest mpg increase as they tend to produce more power. Big test is to really drive the car in a manner that nets you the best mpg (slower accelerations, less idle time etc) and when you do performance upgrades, keep to that manner of driving to actually see the gains. A lot of users who have switched to a drop in or CAI/RAI have said they get a lot more noise and perceive more power.

Try free/reversible mods first!
1. Play with spark plug gaping
2. Take top of stock air filter off (make sure it is secure though)
3. Inflate tires above rated 35psi to near maximum of tire (at your own discretion)
5. Remove unneeded weight in car (in town trips and have AMA? take out the spare!)
6. Fuel up with different brands of gas, pay X amount for premium (not free but not a lot of $$)
7. If 5sp, shift sooner but at beginning of powerband
8. Turn that A/C off! Windows up
9. Make sure crankshaft position sensor is in the fully advanced position (take off front passenger tire, look to bottom left and see if the slotted sensor is pushed down as far as it can go)

Doing these things will give you an idea of what helps and what really doesn't. I've gone down as low as 4.5L/100km at 4c at 100KMH just with different spark plug gaping, coil wires (see Reduce spark plug dwell...) and having a light foot.
 
#11 ·
Yes and no. Manufacturers often set tire pressure lower than optimal to improve ride comfort, since tires are also an integral part of the suspension system. A good way to actually check for overinflation after setting your desired pressure is to chalk a line across your tires and roll your vehicle one or two revolutions in a flat parking lot. The chalk will leave a (witness) mark on the asphalt -- if a tire is overinflated, the line will not span the full width of the tread. In that case, drop your pressure and try again until the mark looks good. By using this technique you can see how far the tire pressure can be raised without overinflating.

It's also interesting to note that pressure can fluctuate more than one might imagine. My Jeep has a direct readout TPMS system so it is possible to monitor pressure continuously in each tire. Driving from San Diego to Phoenix for example, it can vary up to 7 PSI gain due to
1. internal friction (1 to 3 psi)
2. air/pavement temperature increases (up to 4 psi)
3. solar contact (1 or 2 psi)

So "cold inflation" specs would ideally be set before driving and not in the sun. If it is necessary to air the tires at the gas station for instance, you should add 2 or 3 psi to your target pressure -- you can bleed any excess off later after the tires have cooled off.

I typically set about 38 PSI cold. This should help the mileage fractionally without overinflation while insuring the pressure doesn't rise above 45 MAX after potential gains, yet going no lower than recommended after a month of natural bleed off or cold spell.[8)]
 
#13 ·
They have TPMS as required by law for new cars afaik.

In the United States, the United States Department Of Transportation (NHTSA) released the FMVSS No. 138, which requires an installation of a Tire Pressure Monitoring System to all new passenger cars, multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks, and buses that have a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs.) or less, except those vehicles with dual wheels on an axle, as of 2007.
 
#16 ·
No, the system cannot be disabled even via the factory IDS scan tool. You can run the car without them but it will send out an annoying warning message and a chime upon start up and the TPMS light will be on all the time. You can get a set of sensors off of ebay for less than the retail asking price usually, but you have to make sure its the correct valve stem mounted sensors in the right frequency range. Tire rack says 315 mhz should work.
 
#25 ·
tires are wheels are a big difference 16s or 17a with aero covers is going to add a lot more mpgs across all speeds driving conditions than other mods.
 
#36 ·
The ecu will always try to compensate. By doing this mod, you're pushing the advance limit higher.

For example: We'll say the ecu can do a max spark advance of 60*. If the ecu detects knock, it will scale things back until there is no knock. Push the physical connection to get, say a maximum effective spark advance of 64*.

Your engine now has the ability to run a higher spark advance but still be able to scale back in the event of knock detection.

Highest power output for combustion occurs just before pre-detonation.
 
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