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I have the focus blues.

4K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  sailor 
#1 ·
Hey every one first time posting on here. I bought a 2000 zx3 for the girlfriend and I think the car just hates me. It only has 92,000 miles, So far I have replaced the DPFE sensor, IAC, Crank sensor, Spark plugs, Coil, fuel pump and filter, egr hose that goes into the back of the intake. Even went to the lengths of setting the timing with the cam bar and TDC bolt. Yes we left the cam gears loose till we got the belt on.

Now my problem is, it starts but the idle is choppy, when i put the car in gear to move it as soon as i let off the break she stalls on me. I am at the end of my rope here iam trying to find a obd 2 reader that i can look at live data so i can narrow this down some. As I have no check engine light.

I have used enough carb cleaner looking for a vac leak that i am suprised that the car hasent caught on fire. When I removed the cat to do the timing and every thing looked great inside cat was still in one peice and didnt look dirty at all.

I have also replaced all the engine mounts and the dog bone tranny mount.
i know this is getting long but i would like to get as much info for yall as I can.
 
#4 ·
Also check the plug that goes into the coil pack sometimes they get brittle and break. When mines broke I couldn't tell until I touched it. I hope the car it's fine after this
 
#6 ·
Seriously, my pig tale going to the coil pac broke running through a car wash. Beleive me, you'll notice it when a wire breaks. Shakes badly. Coil pac pig tales are now avalible at part stores.
I couldn't tell meaning I couldn't tell the wire was broken until I touched it. It had a slight hesitation before that then when I touched the wire my car turned into a 2 stroke engine [slap]
 
#7 ·
Have you had the battery disconnected recently? If so that might explain it. When the ECU is reset because of the battery being disconnected, the computer will go through a test to find the optimal A/F ratio after being started again. The test will continue for 5 minutes of idle after dropping out of cold start (high idle) mode. During the test idle will fluctuate, and hang out around 1k rpm. To get past the test, start the engine, after the rpm drops to 1k or so, check the time, and allow the engine to idle for 5 mins. At the end of the test the idle will drop to 700 or so.

Now if the uneven idle is really noticeable, then the problem might be elsewhere. These cars are known for having problems with coil pack plug-in wiring and connectors. Go to the coil pack plug-in, pull on the individual wires there, and see if any pull out. If they do, then purchase a pig-tail connector from Ford and install. You might also want to inspect that wiring loom back as far as you can- especially around the EGR tube- to see if it has been damaged. You must inspect the entire loom because typically the problem is not easily visible from above.

Have you checked the PCV tube? It is well known for causing idle issues. It should be removed and inspected for leaks after inspecting it under idle. The vacuum line will collapse under idle, or be split. Stop spraying carb cleaner around. Really, there are not that many vacuum lines- simply remove and inspect. Look at the VECI label under the hood and that gives you a vacuum schematic to follow. It's not like you're diagnosing problems on a feedback carburetor with up to 44 vacuum lines.
 
#8 ·
I replaced the pigtail yesterday sorry forgot to mention that. I have cleaned the maf, and inspected the pcv hose. After I replaced the IAC record time by the way 35 min even with it being a PITA, it will idle at 700-800 steady but the engine seems choppy even after letting it run for 15 min. When I went to pull the car all the way into the garage last night as soon as I let off the brake it stalled. So I thought ok let's stress the system. Turned the car on put on the ac, rear defrost and headlights it surged then stalled.

I do wanna thank everyone on this fourm massive amounts of information, it has really helped me a lot. I have done a ton of searching before I did this post. But I am kinda lost right now.

If I had a check engine light I would jump for joy, but she isint giving up anything. I am determined to fix the thing though!
 
#10 ·
FWIW, from the "Old Fart" here, sometimes when you're pulling your hair out you need to back track to the "basics" JUST to make sure they are sound...

To whit - first step on a "new" acquisition, or an engine that isn't working right, is a compression check. I didn't notice that listed in your description of work done already, and it's a good first step to make SURE the mechanical condition of the engine is OK.

Decent screw-in type compression gauges can be borrowed/rented from most parts stores if you don't have one available otherwise.

When using it, you need to remove ALL the plugs (good time to check plug deposits/condition) then test each cyl. individually, cranking the engine with the throttle full open until the pressure stops increasing to get a good reading.

I always put the plugs back into the wires and lay them on a ground (or connect them to ground with a jumper) so sparks don't fly randomly & cause issues.

If necessary, you MAY have to charge the battery to get good consistent cranking before completing the test on all cylinders.

Results SHOULD be within 10% variation between cylinders - gauges precision can vary in absolute numbers, but the results SHOULD fall somewhere between 125 & 175 psi in general.

Anything ODD, get back to us with results & we'll try to give more info on what the results may mean & additional tests that can be done.

(this will also give the battery a good workout to make sure there is no issue there)

GOOD LUCK!
 
#16 ·
oooook.... fouled how, and what was your gap and plugs exactly? We have had issues with parts stores giving the wrong plugs for these engines since there were 2 different 2.0 4 cyls available that year. If those plugs weren't for a Focus specifically, are you sure the heat range is correct?

You turn on the AC, and it stalls. That is typically the domain of the IAC to prevent that from happening. Regardless of the fact that you just changed the IAC- something is wrong. It might not be the part, it might be in the intake manifold- clogged up. Due to Murphy's Law- that's why you were able to change it in record time. [thumb]

The only other thing you might need to check here is the TPS signal, and the throttle plate position. Hopefully nobody got in there and messed with the throttle plate stop screw that some non-car knowing peeps seem to think is an idle screw.

I would also double check the wiring to the IAC to see if it passes by things that might've burned into it. We've also had some running problems associated with the coil wiring where the harness is melted near the EGR tube -the metal one from the exhaust. Yanking on individual coil wires is a way to test if the pigtail is the issue. In your case, it does seem to point to the IAC being faulty- however, you likely have multiple issues. Get the IAC working first, then we'll move on.

Please... for goodness sake stop spraying stuff around to find vacuum leaks. That only works to double check large leaks like intake manifold leaks. Nobody is going to find a little 1/8" or 1/4" vacuum line leak that isn't making a hissing sound with carb cleaner or starting fluid. There are only like 6 vacuum lines on the VECI- is that too much to remove and visually inspect? It's not like you're diagnosing some 80's feedback carb with 40+ lines.

I hope that's of some help. And yes, please let us know what those plugs are exactly as in the part number, or verify that the plugs are for the Focus Zetec engine. Then move on to figure out (hopefully wiring) why the IAC isn't functioning properly.
 
#15 ·
Have you changed the plug wires? Have you checked the pig tail going to the coil? That POS usually breaks before 100,000 miles or mabye it could be a coil. The dark plugs send my mind to the electrical fireing system.
/\/\ This...
 
#17 ·
The plugs are all at .51 they are really really black when I pull them. The motor craft plugs are sp-478. I will check the tps signal I am sure there is a how to. I have pulled every vacuum line on the car except for the hard egr tube that connects to the pcv valve and checked them all over. There is no black smoke from the exhaust. I replaced the pigtail for the coil. When I turned on the rear defroster last night the rpms jumped then slowly went back down jumped agin then the car stalled.
 
#18 ·
Am I blind? I see mention of plugs changed but no wires. Simply pulling wires on these often breaks the carbon string inside to not idle right. Check for resistance, more than 5K ohms per foot of length and they are bad. Also, technically there are TWO PCV hoses, one in front and one that attaches to very bottom of intake, where it gives the most trouble. Most problems right where the hose enters intake, it sucks through side of hose where it has softened from continued exposure to fuel solvents. There is NO EGR hose that connects to PCV, that steel tube continues to the PCV valve up front and the second rubber hose I speak of. If IAC pulled did you known recover old gasket or rubber seal? Some use a flat paper gasket and some use a double circle rubber o-ring cast as one part. Either can have a tendency to stick to intake, if you put new part on with gasket, it will have two stacked and leak like sieve especially if the rubber one. Very hard to see up in there without a folding mirror. A local lean area at a vacuum hose leaking trips PCM into richening ALL cylinders since that is all it can do, meaning seeming rich is often a lean problem. 12.33 volts is not good either, that is around when batteries often start making car have seeming idle problems. A known good battery is 12.6 to 12.8 volts. Charge battery up FULLY and check alt output, dying alt can produce this stuff once battery is low enough.

Like he says, quit spraying carb fluid to find leaks, you're going to blow yourself up.
 
#19 ·
Those are the right plugs. Sorry, I have a theory for diagnosis where I look for the simplest cause that has been overlooked.

On that PCV line, low idle conditions are caused by the PCV collapsing under idle. Like AMC wrote, it most likely occurs at the elbow where the vacuum line enters the intake. Ford makes an insulated replacement that is supposed to prevent this problem.

Alternator problems are a big deal for this car. There are issues with the VR plug-in connector similar to the coil problems, and issues with the wiring leaving that connector being either melted in the harness or broken. Intermittent shorts are possible. We also have experienced weak VRs in most rebuilds inspiring me to recommend that everyone seek out a local rebuilder because the business model for those guys encourages the use of better parts. You can check your alternator output using the electronic odometer test mode while you drive the car. Simply press and hold the trip reset button with the key off, then turn the key on, and continue to hold. The odo display will change to read [test], and you can release the reset button. Now each time you press and release the odo reset button you will scroll through one of about 30 test functions. You are looking for the one that reads [bat 12.1] which is what is should read with your battery reading 12.3v at the terminals. I've noticed a .2v difference in mine, but you can't ride around under the hood with a multi-meter on the battery. There is also a FP readout that will give you fuel pressure, but it might display in KPas instead of PSI. The temp readout is definitely in C instead of F. The DTC code display doesn't work very well, and should be ignored. You should also remember that this readout is dependent on sensors, for example, some people who have bad temp sensors will have the readout jumping around and showing ridiculous temps like 200C, but you check it with an infrared thermometer and get nothing close to that. The same would go for a fuel sensor- if it was bad, then it might give bad readings back that you could double check with a mechanical gauge installed in the fuel line.

I think your problem is eventually going to end up being more simple than that, but your level of frustration might go over the moon before then.
 
#20 ·
I have replaced the pcv line already that is where my focus journey started. I did get the part from ford no heater hose. Thank you for all the advice, I am just determined to fix the damn thing now. When we took off the old iac I told dad there should be a gasket we couldn't find one. I stopped spraying carb cleaner a good bit back and went with a smoke test on the vacuum lines. I am even thinking Mabey some how we were off a tooth or two when we did the timing. But my father and I checked and double checked our work when we did it. I am not giving up I believe I saw the connector for the alt while I was going after the iac. I know this is prolly something simple and I have been going over the basics and trying to control my anger. I have been driving my 86 silverado for the mean time and she loves the gas lmao killing my wallet. I did replace the wires and I replaced the pigtail for the coil soldered then heat shrink. But thanks agin for the advice and giving me options instead of pulling at my hair.
 
#22 ·
You needa alternator, your VR is kaput. I suggest a local rebuild. Those guys are in every YP or business section, or ask around at parts stores who does the best rebuild. The idea is that they will be more interested in using higher quality parts to rebuild the alternator because returns are more damaging to that business model.

Where is Belfast? Believe it or not, I found a rebuilder in Crossville, which is not that big of a place.
 
#26 ·
Hi, just checked in again,glad your compression looks OK (like Whynot I go for simple first just in case...)

It MIGHT not be square 1 time yet, did you get a chance to check voltage at the battery with a volt meter? Since the alternator in these ISN'T independent of the car's electrical system, there still may be a voltage issue even if the alternator by itself "tested good".

I'm reading this WAY too late at night to feel like looking up the exact details right now, but that alternator pigtail mentioned ion an earlier post is basically a communications link letting the car know when the alternator is working hard so the engine needs more throttle to maintain rpm, as well as a link to the alternator telling IT how much power is needed.....

Kinda generic description, but maybe helpful when looking at "this wire is ground", "this wire is batt. voltage", "this wire signals the computer, and should show Blank voltage range"

So, step 1 is seeing if it's working right as a system with an independent meter.

(Just to check EVERYTHING)

'cause the system voltages you reported earlier would potentially raise havoc with the car's systems....
 
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