I installed my VF-Engineering motor mount this morning, and took LOTS of picts....this is a COMPLETE HOW-TO, so I suggest it for the How To archives.....
I know many people have this, but this is for all of you that still need it.....I have put off buying this for a LOOOOOOONG time, and now it's over and done with......
P.S. SIDE NOTE: if you see it, I had a donut on (left rear).....last night I got a flat tire, plugged it.....see if it holds....
TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALL:
1. open bay/space
2. Jack (1)
3. Jackstands (2)
4. 13mm wrench (I used closed end)
OPTIONAL: Air supply, air hammer/wrench and 13mm socket
5. Hammer (for slight adjustments of mount)
6. screwdriver, or drift pin (small adjustment of mount)
INSTALL TIME: about an hour with hand tools, less with air wrench
NOTE: you are RIGHT NEXT to your cat, and exhaust...MAKE SURE YOUR EXHAUST IS COOL/BARELY WARM TO THE TOUCH!!!!!!!!
P.S...I got REALLY dusty from the ground, you are on your back for the whole install.
Box in car:
Mount on dash:
Jack Car up and put on jackstands
Jack up tranny/engine assy SLIGHTLY, to hold engine and tranny up, and take pressure off the mount...LEAVE JACK HERE FOR THE WHOLE INSTALL!!!!!!!!
Loosen front bolt with a 13mm wrench (or use an air wrench)
The bolts are a few inches long, and they have to be screwed ALL THE WAY OUT....so don't try to smack em with a hammer, cause the stock mount is threaded. (the new mount is NOT....)
I loosened the front bolt until I saw the threads, and then I started on the rear bolt:
STEP 6: REMOVE REAR BOLT.
Expect the motor to move rearward about an inch......it is supported by the jack, but it will still move some anyway.....
bolt removed, showing how mount has been pushed back a little.....notice holes not aligned....
STEP 7: REMEMBER BOLT LENGTHS!!!
Rear bolt is on the left, front bolt is on the Right......the rear is longer....
STEP 8: this is the hardest part, physically too....in order to remove the stock mount and install the new mount, I needed to push the motor forward about 2'', or a little less....but it was already on a jack, soI figured out that if I wrapped my legs around cat right behind the header (COLD.....duh....
) I could use my legs and PUSH the header forward (and thus move the engine up and to the front) and wiggle the old mount out....I didn't get a pict of the mount coming out, since my hands and legs were tied up
......here is a pict of where my legs were:
Push forward on the header, and wiggle the mount out...I had it come out towards the passenger side, same as for the new mount install.....you will see that pict when I install the new mount, as installation is the same as removal....
GIVE OLD MOTOR MOUNT THE FINGER, AND CURSE IT's DESIGN!!!!
smile next to new mount
STEP 11: CHECK FOR PROPER PLACEMENT OF NEW MOUNT
the cupped side will go DOWN....simple
INSTALL NEW MOUNT
same thing as removing old mount, push forward on the header with legs, and install new mount
this is the pict that shows how the old mount came out, but instead it's the new one going in....I couldn't take a pict of the old mount coming out, so this is the closest I can get.....
MOUNT HALFWAY IN:
NOTE: there is a flange on the lower support member.......watch out or you'll cut your finger....
got my pinky.....
MOUNT ALL THE WAY IN: (fitted in place)
INSERT REAR (LONGER) BOLT
I used a hammer and a screwdriver to slightly adjust the position of the mount, to align the bolt holes......
rear bolt screwed in:
INSTALL FRONT (SHORTER) BOLT
I used the same method with my leds pushing forward on the header to line up the bolt holes for the front bolt....push the header forward, line up the bolt hole, and stick the bolt in....
Front bolt installed....
TORQUE BOTH BOLTS TO 35FT/lbs.
LOWER JACK AND TAKE A GANDER AT YOUR NEW MOUNT INSTALLED!!!
LIFT UP CAR AND REMOVE JACK STANDS
THAT IS ALL! should be around an hour......probably less, cause I took all these picts,and had to get all the tools at the shop.....
Hopefully you understood all of this.......
THANK YOU ALL!!!