WhySsoSseriouss, I would encourage you to do the mount replacement, it is really easy. Here's a quick synopsis for the passenger mount on a Zetec so you can see how easy it is (I just did a head replacement on one of mine so I had the mount out)
Put floor jack under crossmember of car and raise it and put jackstands under car once tires have cleared it. It's not necessary to get the car way up there, just get the front car body on jackstands and off the tires to prevent the suspension from chasing the mount up when you pull the mount.
open hood, remove 1 bolt holding coolant overflow tank, unclip tank and move it aside, unclip power steering fluid tank and move it aside.
Put jack under oil pan with block of wood in between jack and pan. Start to raise engine just a quarter inch or so, just enough to put the weight on the jack. Don't raise it further, yet.
Unbolt 3 bolts connecting mount to body. Raise jack more and you will see mount starting to come up off body. Unbolt mount from engine. Bolt new mount on engine. Thread in bolts to body through mount a few turns. Lower jack. Tighten bolts.
You will need a collection of 1/2 sockets, socket extensons, a breaker bar, a torque wrench (not absolutely required but you should get in the habit of using it, and a beam-style wrench is the best for the occassional DIYer since they almost never lose calibration) and it is also helpful to get a small torx socket set (Sears has one) in case the mount engine studs decide to unscrew from the engine. (not the male torx, the female torx sockets)
You will need to grab onto the engine and heave it forward just a tad to get the mount holes to line up while it's on the jack.
The same principle is used for the drivers side mount (it's under the battery tray and air intake box)
Removing the passenger mount is almost a requirement for doing a timing belt inspection/change, and for removing and replacing the alternator (you can do that without removing the mount actually but doing so gives more access)
If you have just started to do your own work on your cars then the tooling needed to do all this is going to probably cost you around $200 - but it's probably some of the most commonly used tooling for working on your car.
A bit of advice on buying the floor jack and the jackstands.
Do not buy the
little $25 floor jack. Get the great big hurking expensive one. If you go new Harbor Freight sells one they call Low Profile/High Lift - I don't have any experience with that specific one, but you want one like it. My floor jack I bought years ago and it has NASCAR plastered all over it, it's completely made out of steel, weighs a ton, and is big. You may be able to find a used one. The
jack may work with the Focus for this job but you will end up throwing it away later on when you get sick of dealing with it.
As for jackstands, the small jackstands with the 16" max lift are another buy that you will regret. Get jackstands with at least 24" lift (Harbor Freight calls these 6 ton stands) If you find a set of smaller ones for $5 a jack at a garage sale don't turn your nose up at them as they can always come in handy, but you will end up getting the larger ones eventually.
The all-aluminum jackstands and floor jacks I've seen on sale these days are very tempting - I might consider them if I didn't already have them - but the all steel ones are cheaper and work just as well.
Look on craigslist.org for used tools. There are also a few used tool vendors in the larger cities. I have one near me that has bins of sockets for example. Spending a couple hours digging through the bins to assemble a set of Craftsman sockets is not an unenjoyable way to spend a Saturday. But Sears also loves to put this stuff on sale all the time.