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Old 01-07-2013, 06:36 AM   #12
whynotthinkwhynot
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Location: the armpit of TN, Memphis, TN
What I Drive: 05 Focus Wagon; 13 C-Max SEL

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Duratec front mounts don't look like that, but close. I forgot what mine looks like because I've had VF mounts for so long.

We have had issues with aftermarket mounts. About 1 in 3 will work. There is only one aftermarket manufacturer to my knowledge- Anchor. I have also seen where Anchor has the part numbers mixed up for AT vs MT. So be sure to take a phone pic of your mount from as many angles as you can before you get there if you can't take the old mount with you.

This is one of those things that we encourage people to DIY. This car has 3 mounts. There is the front (pass side) mount, the Transmission (rear, driver side) mount, and the lower dog-bone (torque-strut) mount. With high mileage, all 3 could be bad. All 3 of mine were bad at 120k when I changed to polyurethane mounts. Poly mounts are more expensive, not hydraulic, race-only, but will most likely not need to be replaced again. There is some vibration at idle with these mounts- it doesn't bother me, and it's less than it vibrated with bad mounts.

The Motorcraft part for the front mount is what most people recommend. Polyurethane inserts are available for the torque strut mount for about $20, but you have to cut out or press out the old rubber. The Motorcraft part for the torque-strut mount gives you a new aluminum bracket if yours is broken- and it costs around $80. The rear transmission mount is solid rubber, and I've not heard of anyone having a problem with the Anchor part for this mount or the torque-strut mount.

Sum-up:
1) take pics or remove your front mount before you buy a replacement. Make sure you get the right part
2) It is recommended to replace all 3 mounts if mileage is high because a single new mount helps a nearly bad mount fail much quicker.
3) If the lower bracket is cracked- get the Motorcraft lower mount.
4) Poly mounts cost $450 for all 3, but your car vibrates like a Harley at stoplights. Chicks dig it.

Yes, an engine that is not running right will add to the vibration. I don't think there is anything wrong with suggesting a tune-up: clean/re-gap plugs (change if needed), coil boots (80k+), MAF cleaning, air filter check (read OM)- replace if needed, and the fuel filter (25k service life).
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