oh sorry about the cams thing i think you may have misunderstood me. adjustable cam gears are nice to have with any performance application whether it is N/A, boosted or otherwise. it gives much more adjustability as far as tuning goes. what i was saying was keep the stock cam shafts. no stage 1 or stage 2 cam shafts are needed at all because the stock camshafts perform exceptionally well with boost.
to get the MTX to hold 350whp you are going to want a pretty heavy duty clutch. something like a clutchmasters fx300 or fx400 and either one will run you over $500. the fx300 will be a much more streetable clutch but might not be able to handle the power but if it can it should last longer than the fx400 which will have no problem handling the power but it will be harder to drive on the street because it is a puck clutch instead of a disk. it seems like disk clutches seem to last alot longer than pucks. for the best of the best for a clutch you are looking at just under $1500 for the clutchmasters twin disk 725 series that will take pretty much anything you can throw at it for power, it is still easily driveable on the street and it will last for quite a long time in theory.
you are going to be looking at about $500 for a torsen LSD and about $800-$900 for a quaife LSD. i think the OBX is around $300 but like i said earlier. if you go to the OBX then you are going to be a guinea pig.
then you are probably going to want a good flywheel as well. some clutch kits like the CM twin disk will come with a new flywheel which is partly why the twin disk is so much more expensive since the other two i listed dont come with flywheels. depending what brand you go with the price on flywheels will vary. i bought my fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheels for about $300 and i LOVE the little booger. im just not sure if im going to be able to use it on future applications. something like a clutchmasters flywheel is going to run about $450.
those are really the only things you need to worry with to beef up a MTX to hold that much power. what you have to decide is whether you want to sacrifice driveability and longevity for the sake of a budget. the built ATX will drive like stock and you could take it to get groceries every day without a problem and ANYONE can drive it because its automatic. it will also be faster. the MTX will be harder to drive with a hardcore clutch and it will be slower. you will also have to take into consideration that at some point you are going to have to pull the trans again to replace that expensive clutch because big power cars will go through them faster than a normal car. clutch life will depend more on how you drive it than anything else.
i bought my turbo kit second hand off this site for under 2 grand. poke around a little bit and you will find a deal. its highly doubtful that you will just come across a kit that is capable of 500whp out of the box for that much though. you will probably have to buy a kit and then swap in a bigger turbo. thats what im going to have to do. the current turbo might get me to 330 or so but since my pump gas goal is 450 im going to need a bigger one. oh and that reminds me. you realize that you can get a pump gas and race gas tune right? that octane makes a huge difference with power. at 450whp on pump gas i could probably squeeze it out to 550 or maybe even flirt with 600 on a race gas tune with some 116 octane.
if you had a boost controller i dont see any reason why you couldnt run a big boost tune and just turn the boost down. but i would just get separate tunes. that is something you could discuss directly with your tuner of choice.
i would not buy that A/F gauge. spend a little bit more and buy an AEM UEGO A/F ratio gauge. you need a WIDEBAND. A/F ratio gauge. im pretty sure that one you linked to is a narrowband and those things are completely useless. they dont read accurately and are nothing but a light show.
the boost gauge looks like it would do the trick but i dont think it reads high enough if you want to boost 35psi.
almost everything you need you should keep your eyes peeled on the BST section of this site and snag up what you need when it comes available. smoking deals on all kinds of things come through here all the time. the only things i would buy brand new are transmission components, pistons and rods. if you have the time to hold out and be patient then you could feasibly do this build for alot less.
focus-power P&P head $1100
focus-power DIY turbo kit $1495
tom's first time in Vegas? PRICELESS!
Originally Posted by 1turbofocus
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