Originally Posted by Geezer
To expand on some of wrc's comments:
Stock/rubber brake lines are under very high pressure. Over time they begin to expand and contract. This translates in the need for more pedal pressure to accomplish the same stopping distance. SS braided lines do not expand or contract resulting in full pressure every time and all the time. They take some time to get used to (modulating pedal pressure) but those that do really like them.
Brake fluid by its chemistry (alcohol based) attracts atmospheric moisture. The moisture mixes with the fluid and when submitted to high temps turns to vapor. Vapor compresses very easily (not what you want for braking efficiency) and results in brake fade (aka a very spongy pedal to no pedal pressure at all). Fluid should be changed every two to three years under normal driving conditions (more often if you live in a high humidity area). If you participate in motorsports it should be changed much more often (sometimes as much as every event or multiple times during an event). Racing fluids while they can operate under much higher temps (without fading) are not always good for daily driving. Some have formulations that attract moisture much more quickly than those sold for normal street driving (i.e DOT type 3 and 4 fluids). As such they require bleeding more frequently.
Centric is a VERY large brake component manufacturing company. They make just about everything needed for a proper brake job including pads, shoes, rotors, drums, and more. Their premium rotors have proven to be especially good (and come with e-coated hubs and vent edges to even make them look pretty). They have very low run-out (rotationally very true) which is a sign of a well manufactured product and reduces potential brake shudder problems significantly. I'm currently experimenting with a set of their semi metallic Posi Quiet pads on my Mazda6 and so far so good.
So essentially, I should have already changed my brake fluid. How does one bleed the brake(s) fluid?
In your previous post you recommended two other brands for shoes and pads - which combination would be better vs Centric?
So the SS lines would definitely feel different but more or less the same modulation would be required over time?
Originally Posted by wrc_fan
Here are some recommendations:
Where to get: Check out the vendors like C-F-M, they will have everything you would need. Also tirerack has good selections.
Brakelines: Rubber degrades over time, so new ones will flex less and improve feel.
Brake fluid: Clean fluid is important, don't need anything fancy, just clean.
Rear drums: Might as well get the drums with new wheel bearings in them.
When to change: I run mine until I'm out of pad in front, never worn through a set of shoes.
I checked out C-F-M and as usual they have plenty of items.
Tirerack does not have any brake drums or shoes at this time...
What's the deal with the brake drum stud and/or other items that seem to be important on the drums, clearly I'm not well versed with the way a drum brake works or what is needed...