You got the right idea.
I don't do pics, I've never even embraced the cellphone although I build my own computers.
You figure out a way to run an extended stud up the middle from the 'neutral' point center that bolts on the bottom to the mount plate. There is bottom rubber left when the top hydraulic part goes, the bottom rubber supports motor weight but also kills vibration in the bottom half or 180 degrees of crank rotation. That rubber does not work as well to damp vibration of the top 180 degrees, rubber damps better under compression than extension. Take a rubber donut, I use 1 inch thick X 4 inch diameter and using the bowl washer left on top of stock rubber as a reaction point, bolt down the donut on top of it to provide compression rubber for the top 180 degrees of rotation. These motors shake more at TDC than BDC because of the secondary imbalance force that ALL 4 cylinders have. That force cannot be reduced except with balance shaft or proper mount. The stock hydro mount reflects some of the upper vibration downwards into the bottom rubber and at a different frequency, but the idea is useless as soon as the mount starts loosening up the hydro parts so they quit working. It happens really quick in cheap crap mounts. I bolt the donut down also putting some support (custom ground PVC plastic hardware plumbing fitting) directly underneath to fill the low space in the center of the bowl washer. That way more of the load is spread across the donut, you want to use as much rubber as possible for force reduction.
Some mounts come with a short 12mm.X1.50 pitch? (I forget) stud, you can use a stud coupler and stud to make it longer to go through donut. Other cheaper mounts simply rivet the hydro plate in place, no stud, I drill them for a 3/8"-24 NF exhaust type stud like found at hardware store. Put big OD and thick washers built up to take force and work to smaller to pilot the ending stud.
Think of the actual mount ring that bolts to motor itself. That ring must move up and down at high frequency in what needs to be rubber both above and below it to damp right. I simply put the upper in place. It works great. The stock bowl washer provides a force transmitting surface for both the upper (mine) and lower (OEM) rubbers to receive mount ring shake from either direction.
Biggest problem now is where to find a supply of that size donut, I looked but did not spend lots of time, ran across an old 1950 attic fan frame I had lying around pulled from my house. Saw the ideal sized donuts on the bottom of frame and an 'Ah-Hah!' moment insued.