Good! Same critter as me. Do you have a rear window wiper? (just makes stuff easier, not required).
1st note: The mounting bolts are metric. I beleive there 7mm (from memory). They might be 10mm. I will use 7mm in these instructions.
Needed tools: Painters tape. String (not to stretchy. I like the waxed stuff but it can be hard to find). Sharpie. (Optional >> Scratchall (that is the name of the tool)Highly recommended). 2 '7mm' set screws.
READ these steps all the way through. If you are not clear on any step let me know and I will clarify.
Step 1: INSURE that the mounting bolts screw in fully. If you encounter any resistance, then clean the threads out. It is important that the bolts thread in cleanly without binding.
Step 2: With the bolts removed, insert the set screws leaving ~1 thread exposed. place ~3 layers of painters tape on the hatch the aprroximate area where the set screws will lay.
Step 3: gently place the spoiler in the approx location. LOOP a length of string around the rear window wiper shaft. This is your center point. Pull the string up to a right side visible corner of the spoiler. Mark the string with the sharpie. This is your basic measure. Check the left side edge. If the tick mark falls exactly on the corner (mirror of right side), then your spoiler is dead center.
Your prob going to have to hunt a bit. If your string gets to many marks, change it. (I centered mine in about 5 'adjustments' as I recall).
As you move the spoiler around, pivot the spoiler to raise the set screws off the tape so you don't rip the tape.
IF you don't have a rear window wiper, loop string through key and use the hatch lock.
You do NOT have to pull the string hard. Just enough that there is no slack.
Step 4: Now that you have the spoiler perfectly centered, It's time to 'mark' the location for the holes. Press down on the spoiler which will cause the set screws to leave an impression in the tape. Pressure required is firm but not crazy. Remove the spoiler. You should see a faint circle or mark. Place a small dot with the sharpie dead center. Using your string, insure that the left/right holes agree. If there dead on then your ready to make a drill point.
Step 5: Now, I STRONGLY recommend that you use a "scratchall" as a punch before you drill. A scratchall is not a metal punch, but due to it's sharp tip, you will get a very clean drill point using it as such. Note that you do not have to hit it very hard. You just want enough to allow a small drill bit to not wander. Drill your starting point now. Do NOT drill all the way through.
TIP: Don't forget to press IN as well as down when getting your depression.
Step 5: Remove the tape. You should have well defined starting points. Measure again to insure your points are equal. You can accept up to 1/16" deviation. If you have not had the spoiler painted, now is the time.
DRILLING THE HOLES:
We are assumed that the spoiler is painted (with 2 weeks dry time minumum please). We have the mounting bolts. The set screws are still in the spoiler (pointy bit out).
Step 6: Place fresh tape over the area where we will drill. Using a 5/64" bit, drill though the outside metal (there are two layers of metal). Place the spoiler in place now. The set screws should fall perfectly into the holes. If so! Have a beverage of your choice. You nailed it! Remove the spoiler.
Step 7: Gently, and watching that you keep the 5/64" drill bit straight to the metal, drill through the inside metal. Using incrementally larger bits, increase the hole size sufficent to pass the mounting bolts.
Step 8: Because there is a gap between the outside and inside metal, you now have to drill the inside hole sufficient to clear the mounting bolt head PLUS clearance for a socket. This is not hard, just time consuming. Again, use incremetally larger bits in the INSIDE metal only.
Step 9" After all holes are drilled. IMMEDIATLY prime and paint any exposed metal.
Using O-ring, thin rubber or 'whathaveyou'. Fashion a seal between the spoiler and the hatch metal (you don't wan't water getting in there).
Do NOT overtighten the mounting bolts. Little finesse goes a long way here. You can always snug them a bit later.
USE belt clamps to hold the spoiler in place while the tape cures to the hatch. Don't forget to remove wax from the area where the tape will contact the spoiler.
Steeda SRI w/CAI intake. Trubendz SS 2.5" . FR Susp/Struts. Tune by Tom (FocusPower). Rota Grids. SAP rear spoiler. Custom front air dam, rocker panel bits and Rear valance.
Last of the Hatches #28