Finally time for an update. I had quite the tuning issue where the PCM wasn't providing fuel after installing the new intake manifold. See solution here: Adjusting tune for aftermarket Duratec IM
All is well now and the car screams again. Tom pointed out that my timing was way too low, and it was so that certainly woke the car up. I don't recall why I had my timing jacked so low but that's fixed.
I installed a Cossie knock-off intake manifold. I would ONLY recommend these to someone willing to do some clean-up work with a die grinder. The horns for the intake runners were a mess and there were bits of aluminum that needed removed for fear of them coming off and being sucked into the engine. Also, save yourself some hassle and do not buy one of these manifolds that someone painted already. What a pain that was.
Overall I do like the manifold. Nothing lost down-low on my 2.0 and wakes it up more up-top. What I do not like is the MAJOR heat-soak this thing gets from the head. On a 70* day the intake temps will be around 90-100* while driving. After sitting at idle the temps will climb to 140-150*!! A future project is making an intake spacer, probably just out of silicone.
I also installed a methanol injection kit with a 2gph nozzle. I have it set to come on about 6psi. Max boost right now is 11psi. Intake temps drop almost 30* after it kicks in, and the AFR drops a solid point. I am not running any additional timing. The mix is approximately 50/50 water/meth mixing 1 gallon of -20* PEAK brand washer fluid with 4 bottles of HEET.
At the same time I swapped out the 55# injectors for some 60# to have some head room for the future build.
Intake manifold details:
- The oil dip stick will have to be bent
- The bottom bolts will be a royal pain to get in
- The IAC has to be mounted upside-down in relation to stock
- The IAC bolt nearest to the throttle body will need ground down so the throttle body does not hit it while opening
- When adjusting the tune, see link above. I did not disable the IMRC in the tune.
- The brake booster fitting doesn't fit. Remove it, go to the hardware store and buy the necessary fittings for a 3/8" line. Sorry I don't know the thread size. I already had it.
- Expect a lot of cleaning up on the inside of the Cossie knock-off. Sorry no before and after pictures
- You will lose cruise control because the cruise control clip will come in contact with the IAC bolt. I'm still working on a solution.
- For a 2.0 it does require the older style power steering pump and reservoir
- Trim and reuse the 1/8" fuel pressure sensor hose. Also use a properly sized 1/4 NPT with 1/8" outlet. The FPS seemed a bit sensitive while tuning. I used a smaller diameter hose initially which messed with the pressure readings.
- Expect the throttle bracket to not fit exactly right on the knock-off brand
The IAC bolt that needs ground down. (this is after grinding and it barely clears)
Manifold installed. I put an IAT sensor in the removable panel
Bottom view. PCV plugged. WMI nozzle installed.
IAT sensor grommet installed. I did not use that brake booster fitting in the photo. I also swapped out that little vac nipple for larger one for the FPS
View of where the WMI nozzle sprays into the manifold. It is directly after the throttle body. Note: this requires a one-way check valve in the WMI line.
Hood clearance of IAT sensor, for those who are curious
WMI tank and pump
After panel replaced and stickers applied :)
Hoses run out a pre-existing vent in the hatch
Hood clearance for power steering reservoir
Vac block all hooked up
That's all the progress to report for now. I doubt there will be anything else major going on in 2012. I've worked on it so much that I just want to drive it now.
I do have some cheapy seats that I may put in this year. (they were free)