Finally got the projectors installed! This is a very time consuming thing especially if you live in a apartment without a garage.
Here is my write up.
Disclaimer: I am no way responsible for any damages to your car or headlights due to your decision to tackle this project. If you feel this project is too challenging for you, hire a professional to do this modification.
Things you will need:
1) BI-XENON MORIMOTO MINI STAGE III KIT (H1) with Mini Gatling Gun Shrouds & H11 Wire Harness & 35w Bulbs/Ballasts- $270.00
2) Morimoto H11 Stand Alone Can Bus Harness- $30.00
3) Lots of Time
4) Lots of Patience
Step One: Very carefully get the headlights out of the car by removing the two screws and sliding them forward to remove them off the car. Then remove the headlight plugs.
Step Two: Now pre heat your oven to 275 degrees. While you are waiting for the oven to heat up, take a sharp hobby knife around the gap of the headlight to score the adhesive, as you are doing that remove the access adhesive that is sticking out from the factory. Once the oven is heated up, place one of the headlights in the oven for 7-8 minutes. Once 7-8 minutes have passed remove from the oven (BE CAREFUL ITS HOT SO USE OVEN MITTS) and start going at the headlight adhesive with sharp razor and scoring the adhesive, try to remove as much as possible. I also used a small flat head screw driver to pry up on the black plastic. BE CAREFUL TO WITH THE PLASTIC BECAUSE ITS HOT AND SOFT, IF YOU PRESS TOO HARD ON THE PLASTIC WITH THE FLAT HEAD YOU WILL PUNCTURE IT OR TEAR IT. Repeat this process until you have the headlight separated. Once you have the headlight separated, you need to remove the reflector from the black plastic piece. It just pops off with a some pulling. Firmly but carefully. If you wanna remove the crome inner-ring of the lens, you need to remove the screws by the turn signal housing with a T-10 screw driver. The it will require some wiggling around and it will come out easily.
Step Three: Next remove the little head light bulb end cap. Its a single screw (T-20) on the base of the reflector. Once you get that out, take a dremel and sand some material out of the bulb socket, go a little at a time until you are able to fit the projector in the hole snugly. Now. Where the bulb end cap was, grind out a little material so you can get the projector solenoid wire through it. Once you are done with that. Clean up all the dust. Install the silicon washer on the projector and install the projector by feeding the threads through the hole. If you look on the back of the projector (the shiny side) on the lip you will see "TOP" make sure that it is upright and on the top and as level as possible. Once you get the projector in place, you will need to wire the solenoid wire into the high beam harness. I pushed the blade tips into the backside of the pin connector on the black housing. Once you get that done, you will need to slice the rubber access covers that go on the backside of the black housing to make way for the the factory wire and the bulb wiring. The bulb wiring from Morimoto has a rubber grommet on it so I just pulled that through. Now reattach the reflector housing to the black housing by aligning the holes to the silver poles, done this firmly but carefully.
This is where I did the grinding to the slot where the little bulb end cap was.
This picture shows where the wire went through the slot and how the silicon grommet has to go on the projector.
The projector installed
The projector installed with the Min Gatling Gun Shroud.
How I fed the wires through the rubber plugs
Step Four: Reassemble the entire headlight assembly. Make sure you have removed most of the factory adhesive if not all. Now lay down your butle adhesive that you got from TRS. This stuff is very reactive so as soon as you start pushing the lens back on, it will start sticking so make sure you have the two plastic pins lined up as you are placing the lens back on. Then start pushing the lens on firmly. Once you have the headlights together place them in the oven at 275 degrees for 7-8 minutes. Once they come out the oven you may have to press some places of the headlight together again. Let the headlights cool off.
Step 5: Install the headlights into the car and wire the bulbs and ballasts. Everything in the kit connects together with 9006 plugs. I tried using the Stand alone Can-Bus Harness by itself as TRS advertises but it doesn't work, well it works part of the time. I think the harness overheats. So you have to use the regular harness that TRS normally packs in their kits.
Optional Mods: Ti Style Shroud and LED outlining.
The LED Outlining Mod:
I used the underside of the black part I painted. I just super glued the LED strand to the bottom of it. I had to super glue each LED until they dried. So it took me a while. Once they where all dried, I ran the wire to the back and assembled my headlight assembly. I ran the positive wires to the fusebox and used a slot that was powered when the car was started. I ran the ground wires to the ground on the strut mount.
The LED strip I used I was able to cut with 36 LEDs (I think) on each side. Here is the link where I bought them. They are the Cool Blue that cost $22.95+ Shipping
All Installed pictures: Daytime
Installed pictures night time:
Light Shot from drivers side of car with High Beams Off 5000k bulbs
Light shot from drivers side of car with High Beams On 5000k Bulbs and Stock High Beam bulbs installed
Cut off with Highbeams off 5000k Bulbs
Overall, the install was very time consuming and not the easiest thing. But these projectors are very bright with a nice cutoff. I plan on upgrading the bulbs in the high beam space to some that match the color of the HIDs. I do still have the bulb out warning come on but for now the lights work flawless. Feel free to ask questions about the install. I hope this helps anyone willing to tackle the job.