-You don't have an air compressor.
-You have an automatic transaxle or you don't have a way to put the transaxle in gear with the brake on to hold the crank from rotating.
-Your locking pin doesn't seem to be doing the trick.
-You don't want to tow the car to the garage.
Ok - how about locking up the piston in the cylinder, head still installed?:
- I read, someone here uses thin rope inserted into the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place when changing out the valve guides/seals. Insert rope on the compression stroke, rotate the crank until the piston stops. Undo the crank bolt, but without cracking the head.
- Again on the compression stroke, fill the cylinder with motor oil and rotate the crank until the piston stops. You should have enough time before oil bleeds past the rings. (What about the head gasket?)
I haven't figured out what the conversion is for 'PSI to ft-lbs' in a 1.6 liter engine. Assuming you could, but don't exceed the rated compression of your cylinder the 'oil method' would give you a better distribution of force across the cylinder. (Insert compression gauge in spark plug hole if uncertain )
It might be messier than the 'rope' but the 'oil' would eventually flow past the rings. It doesn't appear you are in a hurry. You might get a little smoke when you start it up - again, depending on how long you let the oil drain past the rings. Don't really want to blow it out the exhaust - unless the neighbors need to be shown a little respect !
Insert Legal disclaimer here.......
Nope - won't work, bolt isn't reverse threaded. ....... Ah - Bring the piston 'back' from the combustion stroke when filled with oil at BDC.
This is fun......
Member of the Dropped Valve Seat Club.
Replaced #4 Piston, Rings, Rod+Bearings, AERA Re-Manufactured Cylinder Head and a light Hone. Then CLEANED the hell out of everything.
40k+ miles, now jinxed?
Last edited by a_2000_se; 05-04-2010 at 06:40 PM.
Reason: 'piston 'back' from the combustion stroke.