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-   -   "How-to" for start button (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66373)

b16sir1991 11-19-2005 04:21 PM

"How-to" for start button
 
I will try my best to make this look right as im no computer guru. lol
1:
Tools needed:
Roll of good automotive electrical tape
Socket driver or 1/4" socket set(either will work) with 7mm socket and 8mm socket
Small pocket knife or wire strippers(small knife because not everyone will have the wire strippers)
Ford radio removal tools which can be bought at any AutoZone.
A soldering iron/gun and solder.

Before you proceed, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
2:
Start by removing the radio with the aformentioned tools
Take your change holder/ash tray out then remove the two bolts(with the 7mm socket) just inside the face plate where the radio was and pull the radio bezel out.
Disconnect the emergency button wiring and the wiring connectors at the heater controls.
Remove the small bolts that hold the heater control switches and cables and rotate them so they will release (when you pull on them, the knobs will fall off, just push them back on later).
Remove the bezel and now you will be able to remove your power point/lighter where the start button is going.
If you use the Ford GT start button like i did, you will be able to directly install it in the same hole with no modifications. It fits like it was made to be there. The Ford GT start button has a pigtail on the back of it thats appx. 12" long and can be routed right behind the dash over to the ignition switch as you place the bezel back into place.
Reassemble as you took it apart.
Now that you have that back together, you can remove the lower dash panel below the steering column by removing the four bolts at each corner with the 8mm socket. You can leave it hanging by the pedals attached to the hood release cable and the OBD port.
Look just behind the steering column shroud and you will see a bundle of wires running from behind the shroud, down the column. These wires are from your ignition switch and clock spring.
Remove the tape that secures the wires to a black plastic channel and some of the tape that is wrapped around the wires to expose the wires.
You need to find a solid red, heavier gauge wire and a gray wire with a black tracer stripe. Take your pocket knife/wire strippers and strip back a section of the red wire to access the wire but do not cut it, you are simply tapping into this wire.
Take one of the wires(doesnt matter which wire because this is a simple inline circuit) from the start button and strip off appx. 3/4" off of the end of the wire and wrap that wire from the start button around the red wire that you stripped some of the insulation from nice and tight. At this point, you can choose to solder this connection which will make a much better connection(highly rec.) but can be taped up if you dont have one. Tape that connection now.
Find the Gray/blackstripe wire. This is optional now, you can either cut that wire or leave it together. If you cut that wire, only the start button will start the car or if you leave it uncut, the ignition switch will still start the car also, your choice. Take and strip about 3/4" off of the gray/blackstripe wire, if you cut it,on the end that is no longer attached to the steering wheel end and do the same on the other wire coming from the start button.
Attach these two wires together by twisting them together and solder this joint and tape it now to insulate it. If you didnt cut the gray wire, simply attach the start button wire as you did the red one.
Now that you have spliced these two wires, take any slack and fold it and tape it in a neat bundle.
Now take the tape and wrap the whole harness.
Now take the tape and make a couple of loops back around that black plastic channel that was taped before to secure the wires in place.
Reinstall the lower panel on the dash and reconnect the negative battery cable.
Now start the car and your done.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...h_DSC02028.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...h_DSC02025.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...h_DSC01981.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...h_DSC01967.jpg
Sorry i dont have more pictures, but my explanation of the process is pretty clear.

JohnMichael 11-19-2005 04:34 PM

The 'Return' Key is your friend... [:D] Nah, just messing with ya. I would love to do this mod, about how much could you snag me that starter button shipped, Mike?

b16sir1991 11-19-2005 04:36 PM

That start button would cost you appx. $130. It retails for $218.

b16sir1991 11-19-2005 04:37 PM

And like i said, im no computer guru, lol

JohnMichael 11-19-2005 05:03 PM

Ah, I see. Well, looks like I'll be sticking with the traditional 'ole starting method of turning the key... [;)]

W~Phoenix~{RC} 11-19-2005 05:06 PM

Awesome write-up Mike [thumb] How does the starter button work if the gray /w black wire is left in tact? Does the key just need to be in the ignition, or turned to the 'On' position in order for the button to work properly? I'm not very familiar with how these devices work, but I'm quite intriqued about them. It seems like a really neat modification to do and I may be considering this in the future.

Cheers!

b16sir1991 11-19-2005 05:12 PM

If the wire stays uncut, both the key and the start button will work

Blue02SVT 11-20-2005 01:33 PM

PM sent

back in black 11-20-2005 09:29 PM

OK, I didn't actually take the time to read all of that, but you could most likely do the same thing with any ~$3 momentary button from radio shack and a few feet of wire. I did the same thing to my first car.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...257_6_full.jpg

b16sir1991 11-20-2005 09:32 PM

Yep, same principal. Thats all a start button is anyway.


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