:: Fix Dat Busted DSI Clip ::
Okay, so I have just fallen victim to the infamous busted DSI Clip. The part costs $9 bucks and wont be available till Sept...mine is on order. Other than that, you can buy a whole new $260 manifold to get the $9 part. Ummm...no.
Thanks to a post from FORDSVTPARTS, I got some direction on how to fix this...but it had no pics. So with camera in hand I did the job to keep me happy till the new part shows up. (oh yeah, this is my first post of a new thread, and a how-to...go easy on me)..oh yeah, and my server is seeing a lot of traffic these days...so if all 7 img's dont show up, refresh.
First thing is first....grab your tools and take out your intake. If it is stock, you will need to take the entire box out...open it up, take out the filter, unbolt it from the car and pull it up out. You may also want to take the MAF off the side of the box as well to help keep it out of your way.
Amongst a set of sockets and a screw driver or two, you will also need a dremmel or drill, a set of pliers/vice grips/vice.....I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
Once you have that outta the way, stand on the drivers side and look down in at the side of your manifold, right around where the Throttle Body sits...you should see the DSI "Actuator" and a dangling cable w/clip.
See how that cheap crap broke? [:0]
You should see a dot at the top of the actuator, where the post once was....the clip snaps onto the actuator right there.
Here is a pic of the broken post...I popped this out of the clip on the end of the cable using a flathead screwdriver:
and this little gem will be it's replacement:
check that it is the same thickness on the post.
Now grab that screw with a pair of pliers/vice grips/vice and grind it down with a dremmel so that the head of the screw matches the same diameter and thickness of the posts head....go a little at a time and check to make sure it fits snug, not loosely, into the clip.
Here is my grind on the screw head...I also cut it shorter so it didnt hang out too far from the side of the actuator:
If you dont have a dremmel, you should really buy one..they rule. But you can put the screw into a drill chuck and use a file to "lathe" it down. [;)]
Almost there, can you feel the suspense?!
Aight, now you gotta go back to the actuator and pilot a hole for that screw...and make sure its not a bigger hole than the the screw with wide...duh. I used a dremmel cause it fit nicely in there and I didnt have to try to wiggle that actuator out of its home.
Lol, here's a picture of my hole...
I am sure you can see where this is going....screw + hole =
If you did it right, the screw should go in snug. You can reinforce it with some epoxy if you like. But now all you have to do is rock the actuator forward a little and snap the clip over the head of the screw and you are done! Drive your car around and enjoy the satisfying sound of your dsi switching over again. [thumb]
Hopefully this helps ease your frustrations while waiting for those parts to become available. Hell, you could also use this as a guide when you go to replace the part!
Nice write-up! [thumb]
I was wondering what to expect whenever mine decides to break, I hadn't seen where it actually broke at before your pic. Now I won't worry so much about it, cause I do little "engineering upgrades" like that all the time.
glad I could help. I noticed a couple places where it was talked about, but never a pic.....I was kinda nervous at first until I took everything off and realized what I was up against. I damn near laughed at myself cause it was so "stupid simple"
Hey thanks for How To! Awesome Work!
how can you tell when its not working?
THIS IS NOT MY VIDEO but I am hosting it on my server. If the owner dislikes please PM me.
Mine has already been replaced once.
indeed...the engine takes on a different sound when it switches over....depending on what tune you have determines what rpm...usually 5 - 6k
This is now a "sticky".[:D]
I edited the title to be a little more PC.
Thanks, ..:: sleestak ::..[thumb]
Thanks! Mine has been broken so I have just disconnected the actuating motor from the wiring harness to spare burning it out. That in turn caused my engine light to come on which has been pissing me off for the past month. Not too mention the horrible gas mileage due to the manifold automatically springing to the larger intake.
I had been planning something exactly like this in my ghetto rigging mind for a while but havnt had a chance to really tear into the engine bay being in the military and all..time is a rarity.
Also pisses me off when the car first started making that noise which turned out to me the control motor trying to switch over to the smaller intakes non stop I took it to the ford dealership...which charged me 80 bucks to tell me that the Control Motor itself was broken and caused me to buy a new 150 dollar motor...which they refuse to let me return because it was a special order. In essence I wasted 230 dollars on a solution to a non existant problem. [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]*in morons.
PS. If anyone would like to buy a brand new Control Motor (not sure what the exact part name is) Ill gladly sell it to you for 100 dollars shipped.
I also added this to the HOW TO ARCHIVE....
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