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-   -   I'm at my wits' end! (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307192)

GFboughtafocus 01-21-2013 07:26 PM

I'm at my wits' end!
 
I've been scouring the FF forums for two days now and I can't seem to nail down exactly what my problem is. It's time to ask for help.

My girlfriend took her 2000 Focus SE Automatic to the college she works at to have the auto-techs put a new power-steering pump in. Taking it to the college was obviously a bad idea, but she did it anyway. Five days after she got it back, the car stopped holding an idle. When started, it would attempt to hold an idle, chug, and die. I don't have a code reader, but after doing a little research I figured the culprit might be the TPS. I also figured out that the thermostat was bad, and bought both of the parts.

Yesterday I put the new thermostat in and put the new TPS on. I also put a new air-filter in since I had one laying around. Once I reconnected the battery, the car seemed to hold an idle just fine. I took it for a drive, and noticed the rpm would surge to 2500-3000 when the car shifted, but other than that it drove fine. After letting it sit, it started chugging and refusing to hold an idle while cold.

This morning I got it idling and let it warm up, and actually drove it to the autoparts store to get the codes read. The codes that came up were:

P1120 - Throttle Position Sensor (which was giving me a CEL)
P1000 - Onboard Diagnostics (I guess I didn't cycle through the full "relearning process")
P1285 - Cylinder Head Over Temperature (I'm certain the temp sensor is burnt out because the thermostat was broken in half)

I was a little confused about the P1120 code, because I installed a new TPS yesterday. I took the TPS off, had it tested, traded it for a new one anyway, and put everything back together. All pretty standard so far, I guess.

NOW I'm having a crazy amount of problems.
-Sometimes the car won't hold an idle: it chugs, the rpm sit at around 600, and it seems to choke out.
-Sometimes it will idle at 1000 rpm just fine and then when I shift into drive the RPM will spike to 2500
-Sometimes it will hold an idle at just under 1000 and then when shifted into drive it will start shaking and bogging down
-Sometimes it idles and drives just fine except for occasional spikes in the rpm (2500 at shift)(I took it on a 15 minute "relearning" drive earlier and it ran like a dream)

My concerns:
-The TPS was for a "manual," and there was no automatic listed
-Even after having a new TPS installed and the codes cleared it displayed a TPS error...
-The TPS lined up with the screw-holes without any slight twist, which I have heard means it isn't positioned right
-I can't even find my IAC valve

I tossed in a couple pictures of the TB assembly and TPS, because those are the only things I have been messing with. My current thought is that it's a vacuum leak, but I have no idea where to even BEGIN with that, and it still doesn't answer the concern about why the new TPS was still throwing error codes. Any ideas or help you can give me will be greatly appreciated, just trying to get it running again!

http://i.imgur.com/SN9qfND.jpg
Throttle Body assembly

http://i.imgur.com/zWdHdq3.jpg
The TPS lined up with the screw-holes perfectly. Is that a problem?

Squirlyjim 01-21-2013 07:41 PM

Sounds like it might be the IAC valve

GFboughtafocus 01-21-2013 07:50 PM

Squirlyjim I know this is going to sound insane, but I can't even find the IAC valve... based on the reading I've done it is supposed to be attached to the firewall and the TB, but I can't find anything there. I'm not really a car guy (all my mechanical experience is on motorcycles) so maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?

Squirlyjim 01-21-2013 08:16 PM

If I remember right it is easer to find if you look up under the car and look between the intake runners. Look at a pic of it on line so you know what your looking for. 2 8mm bolts hold it on not that hard to replace.

amc49 01-21-2013 09:01 PM

The manual TPS will not work on auto trans model, supposedly you must buy a throttle body to get the auto one. Thank Ford for that one. Thinking the voltage range is different........

The IAC is located under the throttle body but inboard of the intake manifold, between intake and engine, you can see it underneath car by skootchying up under car and viewing the space between engine and the intake. It bolts to the black plastic of the intake with two bolts.

Both those contentions hinge on the engine being zetec or 16 valve which it says somewhere on top of engine.

Dardas 01-21-2013 09:07 PM

Theres a good chance it is the ICV... but if that doesnt solve your problem, what about the MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor) ?.. i had a rough idle on cold startup, and the car would chug like you said but it would go away after i drove it and was really bad on idle. i brought it to mechanic, first day i went there were no codes that showed up, happened again the next day brought it over and finally got a code that was from the MAF, replaced it for around 115$ and it hasnt done it since. also very easy to replace

whynotthinkwhynot 01-22-2013 05:04 AM

The TPS is your problem. You must purchase the re-designed model with the TB or you will have running problems. You can check www.rockauto.com, and they had some made by Doorman IIRC, or you can check with Village Ford, our OEM parts supplier who gives us major discounts on Ford parts.

You won't have to worry about installing the TPS wrong because it comes installed on the TB. You are correct though, the TPS must be fitted to the shaft, not the screw holes. Typically it is tilted slightly towards the air intake, and it should slide on flush without force. If it doesn't fit flush, then you don't have it lined up properly. Then you rotate it back to line the screw holes up.

edit: Rock Auto doesn't sell the TB you need. You might end up having to go to a junkyard, but there is no telling if the part you get is working or not.

wickedgreyzx3 01-22-2013 07:04 AM

We need to take a calm rational approach to this.

The power steering pump was replaced.

First thing we need to do is look to see how we do this, I am not sure as I don't have a repair manual infront of me, but take a look how it would be replaced

Go through all the steps looking at the car in your head, see what would have been removed to get to the pump. Check all wiring an connections within the general area,

I would definitely reinstall the old throttle position sensor, and never go back to that parts store.

I highly doubt it is a sensor, rather just one that is unplugged. Perhaps the cylinder head temp sensor, which if unplugged the car is going to think its way to hot and is going to go into fail safe mode to prevent the engine from over heating.

GFboughtafocus 01-22-2013 10:14 AM

Okay, I'm getting ready to take another look at this thing today. I'm gonna put it up on stands and see if I can't get to the IAC, and while I'm doing that I'll check to make sure nothing is unplugged (or plugged in incorrectly).

I started looking around for an automatic-specific throttle-body, and the couple I found look exactly like the one I have, TPS included. My TB is in good condition, and the throttle position sensors look exactly the same, is it really just a question of the Automatic one being wired differently? That sucks!

GFboughtafocus 01-22-2013 10:54 AM

Okay, so I found my IAC. That sucker is way up in there, huh? Dang. Great placement for a part that important. I haven't pulled it off yet, but I did have a question:

I know that the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor was throwing off a code, but where the heck is it? The only thing I've been able to find says it's "behind the alternator." Anybody have anything better than that?


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