Some one school me!!
be easy though, ive been kinda doin my own thing when it comes to subs, amp, hu's and wiring. for example im cheap and hence i have cheap equipment. i'll post the items i have and the specs they come with. what im asking is with what i have, why is it that my buddies 12's can be heard from down the block and he only has 2 1200w american legacy 12's with a pyle 1800w amp in a ported box and a farad 1 rockford cap, and you cant really hear mine coming until half the distance. i want that a system where you can hear me coming from 2 blocks away but not spend a fortune on audio equipment, can anyone help in that department with some audio knowledge please! and i dont want this to turn into a huge argument either.
Pyle PLA2678 2 Channel 4000 Watts Bridgeable Mosfet Amplifier
Maximum Power Output 2 x 2000W 2 Ohm Stable Custom Terminal Block for Speaker Connection S/N Ratio: >90dB
Bridgeable RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 1x4000W MOSFET Power Supply Thermal Overload Short Circuit Protection
2 Channel Bridgeable MOSFET Amplifier PWM ( Pulse-Width-Modulation ) System Input Impedance: 47K Ohms
Frequency Response 20 Hz-50kHz (±3dB) Glass Epoxy PCB Soft Turn On/ Off
Output Power @ 14.4v DC, 50Hz Silver RCA Inputs Advanced Protection Circuitry
Dimensions:10.24"W x 2.21"H x 16.14"L
PYLE PLD15WD 15-Inch 4000 Watt DVC Subwoofer
Custom Titanium Moulded Poly Cone 2.5'' 4 Layer Dual Voice Coil Nominal Impedance: Dual 4 Ohms
Custom Grooved Specially Treated Rubber Surround Moulded Plastic Gasket For Sale:20, Qms:5.03, Qes:0.89, Qts:0.66, Vas (Cu ft)8.689
Diamond Cut Aluminum Die-Cast Basket Spring Loaded Wire Connectors SPL: 92 dB
Dual Stacked Magnet Structure 4000 Watts Peak Power Overall Diameter: 16''
Chrome Mesh Magnet Vent Magnet Weight: 2 x 100 oz. Mounting Depth: 6.40''
(not this exact one but an older model)
AM/FM radio, CD, CD-R/RW, MP3/WMA, SAT/HD-ready, iPod-ready receiver
4 x 52 Watts maximum power with 6-channel pre-amp output
Includes front auxiliary input, remote control
AM/FM radio, CD, CD-R/RW, MP3/WMA, SAT/HD-ready
Ok so heres My Opinion sell all the current equipment you have and get as much towards new equipment . seeing as you dont have alot of electrical mods or budget heres the list :)
Amp : Mb Quart Onx1.1500 (true power ratings) 1000@2 Ohms x 1 channel
Also stable at 1 ohm at 1500 rms x 1 channel for future expansion
Sub : Sundown SA -15 Dual 4 ohm sub wired to a 2 ohm load for a real life 500-750 rms
Or a Obsidian audio Dual 4 ohm 15 wires for 2 ohms , 750-800 rms
Headunit : Upgrade to atleast a Pioneer with a pair of 4 volt Preouts ( rca connectors 1 for mids/highs amp , the other to the subwoofer amp ) and atleast a 5 band Equalizer for the cleaner sound all around . High pass filter optional but recommended.
Box: 3 routes here really, a high quality prefabricated box around 3.5-4 cubic feet in volume . Build a custom box (requires a good bit of reading up ) , search Craigslist for someone selling a custom box fitting your needs and that will fit in your car .
and of course, proper wiring,fusing, and all other safety goodies
My record is 1.5 miles from being heard to being seen ;)
how do you change ohm's
gut your interior... that should help
already done lol
also 4 cubic feet, to put that into perspective that is a box that is 2 ft wide x 2 ft tall x and 2 ft deep right?
oooooooh, wow ive been doing option 2 every time i hooked up a sub, no matter what. but i never hooked the positive and negative up like what is shown. ive always went from the amp with (+) - (+) and (-) - (-) and left it like that. so the lower the ohm the less resistance there is against the sub and the more freely it will move, am i right on that.
less resistance more power, 4 cubic feet would be like a 12x24x24 box 12 h 24w 24
to find volume do LxWxH in inches divided by 1728 gives you cubic feet
I've driven mine with nothing but a dash and a drivers seat.... made quite the difference in sound deadening.
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