Problem with focus starting
I have a 2005 1.6 focus titanium. The clutch was slipping so I ended up changing the clutch, plate and slave cylinder and after bleeding the system it now works a dream (the clutch that is...).
Since changing it it has now developed a major problem, as in it won't start under its own steam.
It sounds as though it wants to start, but doesn't. I can jump start with no problems, so I thought it was the battery. I checked the voltages and it is 12.8v when switched off and 14.5v when started, so I've ruled the battery out.
When I try and start it, it comes up with engine system failure. I have done the basic self test by holding the trip computer switch whilst turning it on and it comes back with the following faults 9318, A103, E200, E197 and 9600. I also have a friend with diagnostic equipment who has had a look and his machine came back with the following messages.
P2303 ignition coil b primary control circuit low.
P0102 mass airflow circuit low input
P0113 intake air temp circuit high input
P0340 camshaft position sensor circuit manfunction
P0300 random misfire detected
P060C internal control module main processor performance.
He then reset them all, started the car (by jumping it) then rechecked and all the same faults the came back.
I jump started the car and took it for a test drive, found a quiet road turned it off whilst moving to see if it would start, and it didn't so I bumped it and continued my journey home. I then tried the same again but no joy, so tried to bump it and that time it wouldn't even bump start. I managed to get it off the road and called a friend to help. We connected jump leads and believe it not it started straight away. I managed to get it home and am now waiting on the shop to open to fit another coil and cam sensors, as I have been advised that the cam sensors are why the car won't start and the coil is why the engine sometimes runs a bit lumpy (old fault).
Does anyone have any other ideas what I can do to resolve the problems above as I am fairly confident in changing any part as long as I know what the fault is.
Thanks in advance.
Measure the battery voltage during an attempted start. I think you might find that the battery - when under load - is not providing adequate voltage. It's unlikely all those electronic systems failed at once and the common thread for all of them is that they need a consistent (higher) voltage to operate.
In other words, I think you ruled out battery failure too soon. Try having it load tested or substitute a known good working battery. Also ensure the battery terminal connections are clean, corrosion free and secure.
I know this sounds funny.....but did you clean the IAC valve? Really drives one nuts when starting. You can replace it or get some throttle body cleaner and spray the heck out of it. Might as well clean the throttle body and air intake at this time. Bet that's your problem, just thinking out of the box.Hope this helps.
Sorry for late reply. But I bought a new battery and all seems fine. I even got a friend to plug in his diagnostic equipment in, who saw all the previous faults. He cleared them and they didn't come back :o) I also changed the coil which has resolved a random misfire.
I failed to mention before that my wife is about to have our baby, so I was desparate to get it working.
I have done the self test on the dashboard and there still remains all the previous fault DTS codes. Does anyone know to erase them?
The codes will go away with time, otherwise you can remove the negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes, then re-install. I suggest idling the engine for about 6-7 minutes afterwards. When you do a hard reset like that, the first thing it tries to do is reset the A/F ratio. This requires 5 minutes of idling after the engine drops out of cold start mode. If you have a tach, you'll notice the idle is slightly high, but after 5 mins it will drop to normal. If you touch the accelerator during this time, it will restart the test.
Thanks for the advice. Will keep you posted.
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