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-   -   Yanner's 2012 stereo install (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283355)

Yanner 03-27-2012 08:26 AM

Yanner's 2012 stereo install
 
First off, big thanks to those who have posted info and pictures and answered questions in the other threads.

I wish I would have taken more pictures but I'll try to get a couple more.

The car:

2012 Ford Focus SEL 5MT with leather, moonroof and 17 inch wheels

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...tem/focus1.JPG

The gear:

Polk 6.5 inch components for the front, and 6.5 inch coaxials for the rear

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...components.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...em/coxials.jpg

Alpine V60 5 channel amplifier

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...system/amp.jpg

Audio Control LCQ-1 Sound Processor

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post.../soundproc.jpg

Pioneer 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...system/sub.jpg

The install:

I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels. I just bent one of the tabs back that held the factory tweeter and expoxied the new tweeter in after having scuffed its sides with sandpaper. I installed the Polk speakers in the doors using the included mounts. I also installed sound deadening on the door skin directly behind the speaker and a bit around the mounting surface of the speaker. On the rear doors, I also added some sound deadening on the bottom surface of the door, taking care not to interfere with any possible water drainage paths.

I ran the power wire from the battery towards the passenger side on the engine side of the firewall (60A fuse). Went thru the grommet to underneath the glovebox and ran along the trim at the door sills. Removed the rear passenger cubby/trays for the final bit into the hatch.

I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...m/IMG_5816.JPG

I used a small power distribution block to split power between the amp and the sound processor. I'll be tapping into it here as well when I add my tow wiring. New holes for grounds were easy to make, made one for each of the above.

I made the box (my first ever) out of 3/4 inch MDF (no 5/8 available locally in small sheets) and modeled it after commercially available version from Pioneer. It is 0.5 cubic feet internal volume. I still have to clean it up a bit and carpet it.

Test assembly of the box:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...inprogress.jpg

Test of the wiring:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...m/IMG_5817.JPG

Amplifier and sound processor hidden underneath floor:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...m/IMG_5818.JPG

Current state:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9724717/post...m/IMG_5819.JPG

FordBass 03-27-2012 09:15 AM

Very nice.
No worries on amp overheating?
Why specifically the shallow mount subwoofer?

Yanner 03-27-2012 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordBass (Post 4079222)
Very nice.
No worries on amp overheating?
Why specifically the shallow mount subwoofer?

I'll be keeping an eye on the amp but I think it will be ok. It's a class D amp with two levels of thermal protection, and it's bottom rests directly on the sheet metal of the trunk.

I got the shallow mount sub because for versatility. I originally wanted to do a side mount sub, but went with the flexibility of a stand alone enclosure for now since it always quick complete removal. I like the down firing shallow design because you don't have to worry about putting stuff around or on top of the sub.

FordBass 03-27-2012 10:24 AM

The top part of the amp is the heatsink and the bottom disperses very little heat.
I had a MRP-M500 and it never got hot anyways... so it should be fine.

I'm just a bit cautious of electronics in cars because i know a few people who have had incidents with amps not in ideal places.

freemind 03-27-2012 03:34 PM

Nice work man.

mitchv 03-27-2012 05:24 PM

Wait where is the subwoofer actually going?

Yanner 03-27-2012 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchv (Post 4079968)
Wait where is the subwoofer actually going?

In the hatch, as in the last picture. It's a down firing sub, so you can't see the driver.

voipguy 03-29-2012 08:21 PM

You Said
"I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again."

So im not confused the wires you tapped into go to the LOC correct? for Front Right and Left and Rear Right and Left? Did you use the existing speaker wire??

I wonder what the steps are to remove the plastic side panels to run the speaker wire on the right side and the power wire on the left side?

Thanks

joemalibu3000 03-29-2012 08:35 PM

awesome

Fringe 03-30-2012 07:22 AM

Awesome, thanks for posting your build. I would like to do one almost exactly like this. Had looked at the powered version of the 10" Pioneer sub. I'm a little afraid of exposing the sound quality of my 256k and 320k mp3's but the factory system needs help bad, especially in the EQ department. decisions decisions decisions....


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