Yanner's 2012 stereo install
First off, big thanks to those who have posted info and pictures and answered questions in the other threads.
I wish I would have taken more pictures but I'll try to get a couple more.
2012 Ford Focus SEL 5MT with leather, moonroof and 17 inch wheels
Polk 6.5 inch components for the front, and 6.5 inch coaxials for the rear
Alpine V60 5 channel amplifier
Audio Control LCQ-1 Sound Processor
Pioneer 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer
I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels. I just bent one of the tabs back that held the factory tweeter and expoxied the new tweeter in after having scuffed its sides with sandpaper. I installed the Polk speakers in the doors using the included mounts. I also installed sound deadening on the door skin directly behind the speaker and a bit around the mounting surface of the speaker. On the rear doors, I also added some sound deadening on the bottom surface of the door, taking care not to interfere with any possible water drainage paths.
I ran the power wire from the battery towards the passenger side on the engine side of the firewall (60A fuse). Went thru the grommet to underneath the glovebox and ran along the trim at the door sills. Removed the rear passenger cubby/trays for the final bit into the hatch.
I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again.
I used a small power distribution block to split power between the amp and the sound processor. I'll be tapping into it here as well when I add my tow wiring. New holes for grounds were easy to make, made one for each of the above.
I made the box (my first ever) out of 3/4 inch MDF (no 5/8 available locally in small sheets) and modeled it after commercially available version from Pioneer. It is 0.5 cubic feet internal volume. I still have to clean it up a bit and carpet it.
Test assembly of the box:
Test of the wiring:
Amplifier and sound processor hidden underneath floor:
No worries on amp overheating?
Why specifically the shallow mount subwoofer?
I got the shallow mount sub because for versatility. I originally wanted to do a side mount sub, but went with the flexibility of a stand alone enclosure for now since it always quick complete removal. I like the down firing shallow design because you don't have to worry about putting stuff around or on top of the sub.
The top part of the amp is the heatsink and the bottom disperses very little heat.
I had a MRP-M500 and it never got hot anyways... so it should be fine.
I'm just a bit cautious of electronics in cars because i know a few people who have had incidents with amps not in ideal places.
Nice work man.
Wait where is the subwoofer actually going?
"I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again."
So im not confused the wires you tapped into go to the LOC correct? for Front Right and Left and Rear Right and Left? Did you use the existing speaker wire??
I wonder what the steps are to remove the plastic side panels to run the speaker wire on the right side and the power wire on the left side?
Awesome, thanks for posting your build. I would like to do one almost exactly like this. Had looked at the powered version of the 10" Pioneer sub. I'm a little afraid of exposing the sound quality of my 256k and 320k mp3's but the factory system needs help bad, especially in the EQ department. decisions decisions decisions....
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