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-   -   H9 vs. H11 Bulbs Information (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261744)

cappa 06-28-2011 12:41 PM

H9 vs. H11 Bulbs Information
 
Email response from Daniel Sterling in regards to my friend's question about his 2010 Mazda Speed 3 and his headlights. The 2012 Focus uses the same H11 bulbs.



----------

Quote:

Your low beams take a 1350-lumen H11 bulb. You can easily, safely, and
effectively replace this with a 2100-lumen H9 bulb:
http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html . You may need to shave a small
ridge of plastic off the H9 bulb's connector so that the H11 socket will

snap on. Other than that, it's a direct swap. The only disadvantage is
shorter low beam bulb life - the H11 is optimised for very long life
with relatively modest light output, while the H9 is optimised for very
high output with relatively short life. The other option is the Osram
Night Breaker H11 http://store.candlepower.com/bconibr90ulh5.html which
gives better performance than a standard H11, but nowhere near as good
as an H9. The H11 Night Breaker also has a relatively short lifespan
compared to a standard H11 - about the same as an H9. Note that the H9
swap is not universal; it works well in projector-type low beams but is
not safe in most reflector-type low beams or in fog lamps of any type.

Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace
the
existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or
overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a technology called HIR,
Halogen Infrared
Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all identical to
the
9005 and 9006 bulbs, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular,
with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a multilayer
coating on the bulb glass, which is transparent to visible light but
reflective to infrared. Infrared = heat, so the
coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center
of
the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing
more
light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the
shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage
bulbs
(to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock
wiring.)

Here's the comparison:

stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours
compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours
new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours

These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $22.71/ea - but their cost is worth
considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more
than
this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania
Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very
short lifespan.

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this
is
to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different
bases.
The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the
bulb
fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly
into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see
http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details.

The direct order link for these bulbs is
http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html

There are no yellow H11 (or compatible) bulbs in quality worth buying
for your fog lamps. You can use the upgraded H11s
http://store.candlepower.com/bconibr90ulh5.html . Yellow fog lamps do
work better than white. If you're trying for yellow fog lamps, the
stick-on films don't really tint the light very effectively. You can get

good results by removing the fogs, cleaning the lenses *thoroughly*, and

spraying them with several coats of Dupli-Color Metalcast yellow, which
is a transparent yellow paint product:
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html . Let each coat "flash

off" (dry most of the way) before applying the next, and use thin coats
so you don't get drips and "sags" in the wet paint. With each
successive coat, the yellow tint will grow deeper. Make them about 2
shades deeper than you think looks right, and it'll turn out well in the

end. Of course, the coating needs to be permitted to dry and harden
completely before you take the fogs out on the road, otherwise dust and
grit will become embedded in the still-tacky surface.

Fog lamps should be turned OFF most of the time. They are meant to be
used in foggy (or rainy/snowy) weather to help you see the edges of the
road close to the car so you can safely make your way through foul
weather at very low speeds. That is _all_ these lamps are designed,
intended, and able to do. Leaving the fog lamps on at all times does not

improve lighting safety performance, though many people do so in the
mistaken belief that they can see better this way at normal road speeds
in dry weather. See
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...fog_lamps.html
for more information.

ericab 06-28-2011 01:40 PM

great post; thanks for this information

EddieWinslow 06-28-2011 01:54 PM

+1 rep

thanks

Doug81 06-28-2011 01:54 PM

Thanks for posting that.

I think we're all looking for our bulb options and not finding too many as far as the H11s are concerned. I was considering trying some H9s for the low beams but now I want to find out a little more about the potential issues with H9s and reflector housings. Nightbreakers are just too expensive for the short bulb life. I'm leaning toward some Osram Silverstar H1s for the highs.

ericab 06-28-2011 02:01 PM

do you know if the linked H9's in that email (http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html) are a OEM yellow color or are they whiter then the stock bulbs ??

cappa 06-28-2011 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericab (Post 3721994)
do you know if the linked H9's in that email (http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html) are a OEM yellow color or are they whiter then the stock bulbs ??

those are regular "White color" and the email from Daniel Sterling states that H9's should not be used for the Fogs.

"Note that the H9 swap is not universal; it works well in projector-type low beams but is not safe in most reflector-type low beams or in fog lamps of any type.

ericab 06-28-2011 02:09 PM

yeah sorry i should have been more clear; im looking at grabbing a pair of those H9's for my low beams not the fogs. ill use a set of these "Nokya Arctic Hyper Yellow H11 Headlight Bulb" for the fogs.

so the linked H9's can be compared to Philips H11 CrystalVision Ultra's color-wise you think ??

cappa 06-28-2011 02:14 PM

Ahhh gotcha, yeah I used the Nokya's for my fogs as well. I am not sure if those are the same H9s my friend bought that are linked there but we tested his H9s out on my car compared to a pair of H11s I bought that same day. I can't say if it's the same color as the Phillip's H11 but when I tested his H9s compared to the H11's I purchased, the H9s were much brighter and better looking. So I returned the H11's and am ordering the H9s, I just keep forgetting to ask my friend which pair of H9s he bought.

Doug81 06-28-2011 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cappa (Post 3721999)
those are regular "White color" and the email from Daniel Sterling states that H9's should not be used for the Fogs.

"Note that the H9 swap is not universal; it works well in projector-type low beams but is not safe in most reflector-type low beams or in fog lamps of any type.

I've e-mailed Daniel about how to tell if we can use an H9 in our reflector low beam. I'll post his response when I get it. I know that fogs just aren't big enough to accommodate the extra heat from the 10 extra watts.

cappa 06-28-2011 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug81 (Post 3722020)
I've e-mailed Daniel about how to tell if we can use an H9 in our reflector low beam. I'll post his response when I get it. I know that fogs just aren't big enough to accommodate the extra heat from the 10 extra watts.

I think it is "safe" because the housing is similar to the '10 Mazda Speed 3 but glad someone went ahead and e-mailed him just to be sure of this, thanks.


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