How To: Proper EGR Delete *now with 20% more How*
Well I was looking around for info about deleting the EGR and stuff and I didn't find much in the way of do this, use that, and move this kinda of stuff. So I decided to make a quick little one myself.
Parts needed: (not all but this is what I used)
10mm socket, extension and ratchet
Big ole' pliers or equivalent to get the EGR off
EGR delete plate
A cap or bolt for the EGR bung on the header or a M22x1.5mm threaded plug for the exhaust EGR outlet (NAPA Part # 704-1048 works OK)
And a tune to turn the EGR off
Remove the intake tube and such so you will have plenty of room. This involves unplugging the MAF, coil pack, differential pressure sensor (the one on the EGR tube), coil resistor (gray one on the coil bracket), you'll have to unplug all of these to clear room when you pull the tube out anyway.
Now find the EGR, here is a pic and you can see the differential pressure sensor (gray plug), coil pack resistor (gray plug also), and the EGR tube and valve right behind it.
Now clear some room and grab the big ole' pliers or wrench or what ever you can find to fit the nut on the EGR valve and remove it. Once that is done, remove the vacuum hose on top of the EGR valve and the two 10mm nuts holding the valve to the pipe that connects to the intake manifold.
Now remove the header side EGR bung bolt that connects to the header or stock cat. After that remove the two bolts holding the EGR tube. Once thats done you can remove the tube. If you unplugged everything then it's just a matter of getting it the right way to pull it out. I did have to bend mine a little to get it out. Once removed you should have all these peieces left.
I left the DPFE or what ever you call it sensor on the fire wall still. I will remove it when I get a plug for the hole left by the hose going to the intake manifold. For now I just stuck a screw in the line that came off the EGR valve for a temp fix for now. Once I get the plug for the manifold it will all come out.
I got a EGR plate off of the "bay" to plug the hole left by the EGR valve (which you can see the quality or I should say lack of since it has a freaking line through it and on the other side it has some sort of stains that I couldn't get off but weren't harmful to it, I guess I could have polished it but your really can't see it any ways. You can get these almost anywhere. I did see a place where you can get the plate and a plug/bolt for the hole left in the header or manifold. It was for a lighting but I think it would work. If I can find the link again I will add it since it would be the easiest delete "kit" that I know off. Any ways this was very easy to install and I just used a new gasket (super cheap and good insurance for no leaks), and the factory bolts.
Now to plug the hole left in the header I went to Home Depot in the plumbing section and bought this piece right here.
The threads are slightly off but it went on snug and it's not leaking. If any one has a better cheaper solution then I'm all ears, but for the $3.67 I paid for was worth it IMO. Here it is installed, it got a little marred up from the pliers I was using but that was all I had that would fit right there and work.
This was super easy for me to do. I think with all the parts the cost of this was cheap. Well cheap except for the tune lol.
Well enjoy and if anyone has questions I'll try my best to answer them.
What was your goal in eliminating the EGR?
I've eliminated EGR on cars before, but have since reconsidered the process. Yes it cleans up the engine compartment, but you give up some fuel economy and there really isn't any performance to be had there.
There is a GM part number for a cap with the correct threads: 12556597. Last time I bought one it was under $8.
Is it weird that mine doesn't have that black sensor on mine? Cool write up.
When I get a tune I'll have the EGR turned off but I'm not getting one just to turn off the EGR. ~$300-$400 vs Free, I think I'll keep my vaccuum hoses re-routed until I'm ready to get a tune for performance as well as EGR delete. I removed all the tubing like you did but I left the EGR valve connected to the tube, just remove the 2 screws and the exhaust flare nut. I removed the fitting from the exhaust and used a plug instead of a cap, it leaves less stuff sticking out from my header. The Focushacks workaround explains the vaccuum hose routing pretty well. I've had it done for 4 years and never a CEL for it.
I did it for purely looks reasons, I've noticed no power gains nor higher fuel consumption.
Yea but you^ have to end up re-placing the thing on the wall there that the two small black hoses running to it, Atleast that's what I've heard. Like every 50,000 miles you have to re-place it un-less you do it with the tune.
DPFE? And what does it do with the EGR valve, and why wouldn't I have one?
Ford fitted several different types of DPFE sensors to the earlier ZX3. Sleepyboy has the one, like mine, mounted directed over top the EGR tube. Others are firewall-mounted and others are built into the EGR valve itself. You probably have one of the other styles. They've had some problems with them over the years - they failed frequently because of moisture and heat - and redesigned them several times.
The DPFE sensor (Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)) is what the ECU uses to measure exhaust gas flow. It then uses these readings to tell the EVR solenoid to open/close the EGR valve via manifold vacuum, which lets exhaust gases flow into the intake manifold (or stops it). It's a feedback loop.
Good write up by the way, sleepyboy. Another way to block of the EGR take off on the exhaust is to cut your EGR tube and use the old manifold fitting. Shove a circular piece of metal in there - a coin works - to block the old opening and tighten it down.
Cool thanks for explaining.
I liek the extra 20%
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