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Engine Cover install

45K views 75 replies 39 participants last post by  Vanderwp_16SE 
#1 · (Edited)
2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan
I added the engine cover and like the way it finishes off the look.

Skill: Beginner
Time: less than 15 minutes
Tools: 1/4" drive, 10mm deep well

Parts:
Engine Cover: CP9Z-6A949-A (~$50)
Stud #1: CP9Z-6A957-A
Stud #2: CP9Z-6A957-B
Nut/washer: W520201-S442

My images shows which studs to use where. Be careful not to drop one, as my under engine cover was a good catch [:)] and made for a difficult retrieval.

Just tighten the studs down on the correct bolts, snap cover onto the three studs and tighten nut/washer on the bolt that comes through cover from engine.

Special thanks to #TWENTY for originally documenting this and showing how nice it looks.
 

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#19 ·
I was contemplating removing the insulation on the underside of mine and adding a heat reflective tape. I did it on my old cbr1000rr where the lower fairing was melting due to the heat of the exhaust. Truth be told the factory put the same insulation material on the lower fairing and it pretty much did nothing for the heat. I didn't have any further issues after adding the heat reflective tape (it's chrome in color). Obviously, the 180 t-stat would be my best option but I'm holding off until the warranty is up for that. These covers get HOT
 
#23 ·
It offers a bit of sound insulation, and since OHC & DI engines tend to be on the 'rattley" side, it keeps some of the noise inside the engine bay. Also, if you leave it on while washing the engine, it keeps water out of the valley in the valve cover, protecting your coilpacks & spark plug wells from water.
 
#45 ·
I always liked the K&N once I got the filter to stay on LOL

I have the AEM on now and it's not as loud at the Typhoon, kinda miss that. The engine bay doesn't look at good with the AEM, but there is definitely a power difference when moving between the two.

 
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