Focus Fanatics Forum banner

Installed Homelink visor in our SE 4 door

42K views 73 replies 37 participants last post by  IrishBrewer 
#1 ·
Ordered from Tousley last week and came in Monday. Installed it Wednesday night. As no surprise, there is no wiring for it so I tied into the roof console for power. Wife likes having to have the homelink like in our truck for the garage doors and having a larger and lighted mirror is an added bonus. We're not worried about the passenger side having a non-lighted and smaller mirror so no changes to that one.

ParT number is CM5Z 5804105 FA and Tousley sells it for $74.62.



 
See less See more
3
#8 ·
Yes, I fished wire with a hanger and removed the cover for the sunroof motor/button area at the headliner. Tied into acc. power. No pics as I felt it was pretty easy stuff.
 
#10 ·
I just got my 2013 Titanium and homelink wasn't even an option at all. Looks like I'll have to do this install as well.

I'll have to check with Ford to make sure it would affect my warranty status though. Oy.
It should only affect the warranty with what you modify/replace like the visor and if you tied into the electrical and something from your work caused a failure to something else. I wouldn't be concerned.
 
#12 ·
Hello Nutty, or anyone else who did this. HOW did you removed the cover for the sunroof motor/button area at the headliner ??? I need instuctions as I dont want to mess it up!
I pressed in both sides of the switch assembly and it comes down partially. The Sunroof switch side has a metal clip that lets it come down farther, then the driver side blank switch, but I can not get them to come out with out further instructions.

Thanks for any help please!
 
#13 ·
Ok, I got it now. Open The Sunroof and between the headliner you will see 2 metal clips that hold the switches in. Use a long metal flat screwdriver to push in on the clips, there is a small bend in the clip so it will stay pressed in so you can do the other one also. You may need another screwdriver to push the switch assembly down. Unclip the connector. I tapped into the Blue for Positive and the Black for Neg. on that connector. Fish the wires in with a hanger and your all done.
 
#16 ·
Got the visor before Christmas and over Christmas Vacation I put in some "Peel & Seal" on the roof and trunk sheet metal. So I had the headliner down. There is a connector for the visor power already there. If you pull down the driver's corner of the headliner it is right there glued to the liner. it is near the door and not too far from the visor mounting hole. Soo I think if you pull the door seal and have the old visor out you should be able to pull the headliner down far enough to plug the new visor in
 
#18 ·
yes. I had started out looking to do the insulation and the I thought that I would have to cut and wire the visor. But when I pulled the headliner down I saw the socket, put a meter on it an it is 12V on all the time. Put the plug in and the vanity light came on then programmed 2 of the 3 switches. Both garage doors opened. Also there is a similar socket on the passenger side.
 
#20 ·
I just installed the 2012 visor (within 8 hours of taking delivery) in my new 2013 Titanium . Took about 5 minutes with the toughest part being getting the screw head covers off to get to the T15 screws. A gentle tug on the power cord from the existing mirror brought it out where I could reach it, swapped over to the new visor and poked the connector back into the opening before reinstalling the screws and covers.

I still don't understand why Ford decided to strip down the 2013 Titaniums as much as they did. I get that there were/are issues with the rain sensing wipers (the ones on my Edge act possessed) and that the electro-chromatic mirror suffered from droop (was Viagra an option?) but what was the issue with the Homelink visor? [confused]

Thankfully I found out about it being removed on the 2013's from this board and got the right one on order from Tousley.
 
#21 ·
Great find Nutty and nice shortcut Fred! Once you have it, it's hard to go back, especially if you use multiple openers. I got mine from Heller Ford in Ill. and followed 4havnfun's protocol on my 2013 SE sedan. I agree, it's a simple mod and works seamlessly.

Getting the screw caps off is a cinch if you have a dental tool (shown here) or a bobby pin or paper clip with a bent tip:


My screws used a T-20 Torx rather than T-15. I couldn't get the fitting to pull through so I looked under the headliner and found it was glued in place just inboard from the drivers door behind the A pillar. After carefully freeing it from the headliner it could be pulled through and disconnected. For those of us not familiar with all the Ford connection locks, just press down here with your handy pick:


Button it up and it's ready to program. Since our '13 manuals don't have the procedure listed, it's probably the same as one of your other cars if it was an option. In this case, hold your remote transmitter next to the new button you wish to use, press them simultaneously and a red light flashes on your homelink. After a few seconds it flashes fast and that means it's programmed. Certain rolling codes may need a different procedure, but that's another matter. Here's a look at the unit (red light is located in the arrow, next to center button):[


Great mod, reasonably priced! [8D]

PS Although it isn't an option for 2013, the Homelink appears clearly in the "sunroof" picture in the 2013 catalog. Who knows why it wasn't included as an option -- maybe a supply issue? Perhaps it will be officially back next year.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I did this install this weekend in my 2012 SE 5-Door. Thanks to those of you who did the leg work on this. Since there have been some questions about the wiring aspect, I thought I'd add pictures of the factory connector that is indeed glued to the top of the headliner.

After removing the original visor as shown above, take the door seal loose, and gently pull up on the a-pillar trim. It will pop up about 1/2-3/4", do not try to remove it completely. This will allow you to access the plug for the Homelink visor that is glued to the top of the factory headliner. The plug is black and red plastic. Just pull up firmly with your fingers, and it will come loose. You'll need to feed it through the larger hole in the headliner where the visor mounts. I didn't take a picture of this, as it's pretty self-explanitory. Plug the new Homelink sunvisor in and open the mirror cover. If the mirror lights come on, you're good to go. Visor installation is the reverse of removal. Programming instructions are in the owner's manual. I'd say total time for this, including programming Homelink to your garage door opener, will take the average person around 30 minutes. The only tools you need are a T20 Torx and a pocket flathead or small pick.





[werd]
 
#33 ·
Just curious Just picked up a 2013 Job #2 build Focus SE and it does have Lights in the visors but theres only 1 side of the mirror. I test drove an earlier build 2013 and noticed it had the lights on both sides like 2012's did. My question is that have any of you who did the Mod do it on a Job #2 car to confirm it worked and the harness is in there? I dont mind having a driver side Visor with 2 lights cause I'll never use it anyway but I will use the homelink button.
 
#34 ·
Hey all... new to FF and just bought my first Focus, a 2013 SE.

Well... I think I've found an issue with the latest 2013 Focus builds and the 2012 visor pictured earlier in the thread. Here is my 2013 visor:

Folded up...


Opened...



As fiveofocus mentioned, it appears that the sunvisor design has changed from the original posts. Specifically...

The mounting screw/mounting cover no longer has the holes for the screws and/or screw covers



I assume that the same 2 screws are underneath the single cover, but I haven't pried it off to see.

Also, the bar that locks into the retainer clip now has an integrated "ticket" holder that I don't see on the previous pictures.



So... this mod sounded simple, easy, and cheap. But I don't want my new focus to have mismatched visors and it seems silly to buy a second visor just to have a matched set that doesn't look quite as neat and tidy as the newest version. I may just bite the bullet and go with a new rearview mirror with homelink and have the added feature of the auto-dim as well.

Anyone else have any thoughts or comments?
 
#37 ·
Rodney let me know if you pull it off... I'm so tempted to to find out this mystery but my car is only 6 days old and already did a bunch of work to it... I work for the Ford Plant out here in Chicago and our Taurus or Explorers dont use a Cap like these do also waiting to hear from one of my friends in Trim Dept at Focus Plant to see if the harness is still up there as Job #2 is Unknown with these new mirrors....
 
#38 ·
Sounds like we bought ours around the same time. I'm not rushing to pull mine off now that I know the overall visor is different and purchasing a single 2012 homelink visor wouldn't match the other side.

I'm looking at spending the extra bucks and buying the auto-dimming rear-view with Homelink. That way I get two features instead of just the one. For only $50-70 more than buying two matching visors... I think it might be worth the extra money.

Knowing that there's already accessory power up there to feed the current visor "make-up" light, I'm thinking you wouldn't necessarily need to run a new power feed for it either, so it shouldn't take much to install.
 
#39 ·
Make sure you have key switched power. You don't want your mirror to kill your battery. Also, depending on how you feel about it, some people prefer key switched power for the Homelink as well since it prevents someone from breaking your window while the car is in the driveway and then opening your garage. I don't worry about that but it's something to consider.
 
#40 ·
Hmmm... interesting. My Nissan with the homelink mirror has the garage door buttons that work regardless of key position. But the auto-dim and compass are only on with the key. Must be additional wiring from separate jumpers on that guy. I know the simple no-compass mirrors all come with an on/off button for the auto-dim, but you're right... I guess you'd have to make sure you only wired it up to the key-accessory powered jumpers or risk the auto-dim feature causing a possible drain. I'll have check the other thread on the mirror install for that and see what others have done.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top