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Old 03-02-2011, 09:03 AM   #1
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Taking actions shots?

I got a D60 from a member here and am trying to learn how to fully use the manual mode.

I have seen photos taken of moving vehicles where the vehicle itself is focused on but the background is blurred a bit and the wheels are blurred from motion.
Every time I have tried so far I got the wheels perfectly still and or sometimes the background is blurred or the whole picture is blurred

How should I go about doing this?


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Old 03-02-2011, 10:44 AM   #2
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It's something called Subject Panning. It takes some practice.

There is a sweet spot with the right settings and the right lighting that make those kind of shots. And there is no Global Setting that is standard. It changes depending on the time of day and the kind of event, like kids basketball vs indy racing.

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Old 03-02-2011, 10:49 AM   #3
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For instance:

Here's a shot I took where the wheels are somewhat blurred to showcase movement but the background is still


What happen was the Shutter I used was too fast and also the subject wasn't really moving horizontally, so I pretty much stood still no movement and took the photo.
Shutter was somewhere around 1/600+

Now here's a shot where the car is more in focus and the environment is in blurred motion


What I did here was adjust my shutter to get some motion (around 1/250th) and adjusted my ISO and Aperture to compensate for the day and for the darkness of the shuutter.

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Old 03-02-2011, 11:01 AM   #4
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You need to play with the settings from ISO, Aperture and the Shutter speed to get the shots you want in any situation.

When it comes to Automotive Racing, you will need a good Long Lens (wouldn't want to be too close when a car is in motion) and if possible, or you can afford it, a good fast lens.

What's a good distance lens? - 200mm is okay but really in Pro-Racing, it's 300mm MINIMUM. For Indoor sports, 200mm Is actually long enough to get the right shots.

What makes a good fast lens? - On the side of all lenses there are other numbers besides the mm (distance) of the lens. Numbers like 5.6, 2.8, 6 ... these numbers represents the Aperture that the lens can handle. The lower the lens, the faster the lens. The lower the number also means the more expensive the lens needs. That's why if you go with a cheaper 5.6-6.3 lens, it's best to stick with daytime sports.

Oh ... another note, since you have a nikon D60, you have what they call is a crop sensor and it changes the focal length of the lens a bit. For instance, if you have a 200mm lens on the D60, it actually is projecting at around 280-300 ... how did I get that number. Well, its a 1.5 cropped sensor so you multiply the lens distance number by 1.5.

More information on the crop sensors here

Once you get the lens, then it's time to play with the settings.

The greater the Shutter the less light is captured and hence the darker your photos are, but the more sharp.
The lesser the Shutter more light is captured, creating vibrant depth photos, but the photos are more likely to be blurred.

The greater the Aperture, the least amount of light come to the sensor, making dark photos.
The less amount of Aperture, the greater amount of light come to the sensor, making brighter photos.

The greater amount of ISO, the brighter and more vibrant the photo becomes, but also the more likely of creating Grainy shots.
The least amount of ISO, the darker a shot is, but also the more contrast you get and the cleaner the shot will be within dark areas.

-Ray-
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:39 AM   #5
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if you want to try a action shots use shutter priority and generally these work
car is going: 10mph-30 1/250
30-50 1/125
50-70 1/60
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:49 PM   #6
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^^ What time of day are you using those ... later in the afternoon?

And what type of lens do you have?

When I shot during a full sun no clouds day around 1pm ... I wouldn't go under 1/200 shutter for to keep from over exposing. @f/6

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Old 03-02-2011, 08:23 PM   #7
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What you have to realize aswell is that many of the pro photos that you see in the mags of cars tearing it up on the track with, like you said, the back blurred and the wheels spinning is an illusion created in photoshop or the outcome of using a large and very expensive rig. Check Sean Klingelhoefer's site out. He's got to be one of the best automobile photographers I have ever seen.

http://seanklingelhoefer.com/blog/

The best you could do with your equipment at hand is playing with the exposure settings like mensioned above. But if your really interested in furthering your photo knowledge at all do check Sean out.

Last edited by Areol; 03-03-2011 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Areol View Post
What you have to realize aswell is that many of the pro photos that you see in the mags of cars tearing it up on the track with, like you said, the back blurred and the the wheels spinning is an illusion created in photoshop or the outcome of using a large and very expensive rig.
Not necessarily...

It's just a matter of learning to use what you have. I would think the D60 is more than adequate for very nice motion blur shots.

Check this link out for general automotive tips:
http://www.carphototutorials.com/

Also:
Check out this guys work everyone! He's got some great stuff!
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/g...my-photos.html
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:38 PM   #9
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^ Well not that extreme

I was thinking stuff like this. This was taken at one of the autox events i went to
Though this first one looks a bit edited



here's a second one


All I've been getting are things like this



TukaniSVT; I'll try that this weekend
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:39 PM   #10
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^^ All the EXIF data is gone from those images so it's impossible to tell what your shutter speed, focal length, f#, etc is... Makes it a hair more difficult to tell what the heck's going on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LocustheFocus View Post
if you want to try a action shots use shutter priority and generally these work
car is going: 10mph-30 1/250
30-50 1/125
50-70 1/60
Adding to what Ray said, at 1/60 your gonna have a damned hard time avoiding camera shake. The general rule is a minimum shutter speed of the reciprocal of you focal length (1/focal length.) Need to stress that is the minimum, IMO 1/60 is pushing it at 50-70mm.
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