|03-27-2008 09:47 PM|
Im just going to uninstall my sway bars and go nuts with a welder under there, who needs independant suspension? not me!!
no but seriously though guys, you need to stop the back and forth pissing contest and enjoy the review
|03-26-2008 11:58 AM|
The SVT already has outstanding handling capabilities and can already outslalom a Porsche 911 and many others in stock trim.
"Please respect the car you drive"
This comment is about as stupid as stupid gets and you sir are a moron.
|03-21-2008 10:58 AM|
|03-21-2008 10:49 AM|
|Peregrine||Well, it's a good thing that the LCR's were revised from 03-04 SVTs. I'm running a 25mm rear Progress bar (that's made the car more tossable than stock form) and planned on upgrading to the H&R front swaybar. I may just replace the bushings before I decide to replace the entire bar.|
|03-21-2008 09:04 AM|
Lifting the inside rear wheel is not necessarily a bad thing, but it is not necessarily something that you tune the car to do. Lifting the inside front wheel is something you see a fair bit on RWD cars--BMWs specifically come to mind. On a FWD car, however, it is not at all desirable--nor common.
On a Focus any rear bar bigger than about 25mm is a risk to breaking the rear LCAs, especially on cars with softer spring rates--say softer than H&R Race springs. The 28mm monsters have no place on any street driven Focus, IMO. There have been repoted LCA failures on cars with smaller bars too--just be aware, especially when using 24+mm rears.
Sway bars are intended to be 'the icing on the cake' of a suspension recipe--not the batter. Dampers, springs and then swaybars...for the final 'tune to taste'.
Small (SPI) front bars are appropriate for high spring rates...but the goal of a FSB on a FWD autocrosser is no keep the outside front tire from gaining negative camber--which is why you see so many stock class cars using bigger than OEW FSBs--even though it is 'supposed' to induce understeer, the BFSB actually kkeps the fronts from rolling over too much on the outside tire. This can also be achieved by raising the spring rate.
Small front bars on lower spring rates will reduce initial turn-in and most certainly reduce slalom speeds. It may be better for sweepers in some cases...butthe tradeoff is certainly there.
My opinion of a good basic ST setup is: Konis, LCR plates, H&R Race, 24mm rear, 21 or 22mm (Steet Edition Wagon) OE front...and poly busings. The next step would be GC coilovers with significantly higher rates and revalved Konis.
|03-21-2008 12:33 AM|
|03SVT4Door||honorsystem, read my post right above urs, any driving opinions are about these H&R bars, i drove on them for the greater part of 8 months with eibach pro-kits and kyb agx's i liked em, u are correct about the rear tire lifting, just not off the ground|
|03-16-2008 04:19 AM|
Anyway, back to the OP's topic... I've been looking at these a bit, so if you do try them with some aftermarket dampers/springs, let me know, because I've got H&R race springs and KYB AGX dampers, but Im unsure of which bars to go with.
|03-16-2008 03:18 AM|
|03SVT4Door||bahahaha, the focus is a euro car to start with, and if anything its a compliment, with the crappy quality of american cars lately and how they are just thrown on the street with too many problems(the svt is a GREAT example of this) i completely agree with deeds on this one, and what he said was drives LIKE a german car, he did not say AS GOOD AS a german car, it was simply a comparison, and since i drove this car for the greater part of 2 years he was reffering to MY feedback meaning it was much like my buddies S4 in the fact that it was still a decent ride but the body itself felt stiffer, more responsive, and more controlled in aggressive and day to day driving situations, also, BADIDEA, as deeds stated, ur right to a point but after punishing the crap out of that car everywhere, twisties, highway, on/off ramps, tight corners, and even Auto-x on a crappy greasy parking lot, the inside wheelspin was definetly minimized with the suspension setup, if we had a 28 or 30mm bar i would totally agree with you, as for people using the spi bar, i could see that as a way to get rear tires light with front body roll for rotation, but on a road course you rarely slow down enough for the focus to be capable of wheelspin due to lack of power, this wheel spin also depends on driving style, smooth=no-minimal spin, using the throttle as a switch would induce this wheelspin on an auto-x course, and if u say i was not driving near the limit, ask deeds, or peregrine, for a 19y.o. i can drive pretty darn well with karting under my belt, not to mention countless freeway/ backroad runs, and the fact that with only about 2 months of daily driving our 94 mustang gt i beat my dad at my first auto-x and he drives pretty well also, i pushed that car to its limits and then some, the only area i experienced wheel spin with was auto-x in the rain. point of this whole rant being, drive a setup before you try to nit-pick it, and also decipher a statement before you make an assumption. im done now, can you say LOCK!!! and one more thing, yes search my posts, i crashed that car, but it was driver error, ill admit it, over reacted and smacked a wall, not everyone is safe from mistakes, not trying to be a jerk but honestly, someone was giving an opinion, not saying that this was the only correct or perfect way to setup a focus for aggressive driving|
|03-11-2008 02:43 PM|
|03-11-2008 10:26 AM|
|SuperFocus77||On a seperate note and no offense to anybody, you should have bought a German car then. Hell ya, they cost 20 Gs more. Imagine what u could do 20 Gs on a Focus SVT. It will rip many German cars if tuned properly. Please respect the car you drive. You insulted Ford cars. Not appreciated.|
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