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Thread: Installed new Oil Pressure Switch (2000 ZX3) still leaking oil ... Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-16-2013 11:22 PM
AllenR
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
So why did the first one not, do ya think?
I don't know.
Best guess?
The adapter expands and contracts with the heating and cooling of the engine. Could be after thousands of times, it just failed to contract enough to seal the sensor, and began leaking. When I tried installing the new sensor, it had to go further in the tapered socket than the original depth to seal, which was not possible, since the soft metal of the adapter cracked, before it could reach that point.
05-16-2013 10:05 PM
amc49 So why did the first one not, do ya think?
05-16-2013 08:27 AM
AllenR
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Thinking there's some misunderstanding here. Despite all this talk of varied tapered or non-tapered threads the fact remains that car has either one or the other, the replacement fitting should have been the same type.
Seems like an odd way to design the parts, but the fact is that it seals with the correct torque applied. The part numbers from the Ford parts site for my vin number, matched the parts I received, and it worked. May be why the adapter is made out of soft metal, while the sensor is made of hard steel. It allows the sensor to dig in to the adapter to seal it.
05-16-2013 05:49 AM
amc49 Thinking there's some misunderstanding here. Despite all this talk of varied tapered or non-tapered threads the fact remains that car has either one or the other, the replacement fitting should have been the same type.
05-14-2013 01:20 PM
AllenR Well, I just torqued the sensor to the adapter, and then the engine. Warmed it up, and drove it around. Put a piece of pasteboard under the car, no leaks.
Thanks for the help, guys! I guess the straight sensor is made to cut into the tapered housing. Probably a one time deal. If the sensor goes bad, you have to replace the housing, too.
05-14-2013 12:26 PM
03FocusZX3 What Elsolo said about permatex, i used the stuff when i was assembling the Detroit Diesel V6 engines where i work, permatex is AWESOME!
05-14-2013 11:39 AM
AllenR
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeeshaq View Post
Dear AMC
""""
What are we talking about here, 1/8" or 1/4"? My zetecs thinking 1/4" there? """""

1/4 same diff STILL one thread off

I used to work on Atomic Absorption Spectrometers
These things use use Air, Acetylene and Nitrous Oxide
One mistake and it is death and injury
Caught a customer's maintenance people using Teflon tape on the acetylene hose fitting and it was leaking acetylene!!!

There IS a difference of fit between screwing in NPT into a BSP female fitting and vice versa
Actually screwing in a Parallel BSP into a tapered NPT works, cause then the O ring on the BSP parallel will seal. Assuming a smooth surface on the NPT end
I have a straight thread sensor, but no o ring. What should I do?
05-14-2013 11:34 AM
AllenR Well, I got the adapter and it looks like it has the tapered threads, but my sensor has straight threads. It begins to tighten after only a few turns.
If the numbers are the same, how do I get the right part??
05-14-2013 07:08 AM
mikeeshaq Dear AMC
""""
What are we talking about here, 1/8" or 1/4"? My zetecs thinking 1/4" there? """""

1/4 same diff STILL one thread off

I used to work on Atomic Absorption Spectrometers
These things use use Air, Acetylene and Nitrous Oxide
One mistake and it is death and injury
Caught a customer's maintenance people using Teflon tape on the acetylene hose fitting and it was leaking acetylene!!!

There IS a difference of fit between screwing in NPT into a BSP female fitting and vice versa
Actually screwing in a Parallel BSP into a tapered NPT works, cause then the O ring on the BSP parallel will seal. Assuming a smooth surface on the NPT end
05-14-2013 12:43 AM
amc49 'Never ever use Teflon on parallel or straight [bolt]thread as the thread in NOT meant to do the sealing action but rather a gasket or a ferrule'

If you only knew how many people I got in at the store that thought you could do that. I finally quit saying anything just to avoid the argument from an idiot. Sell him the tape or the more expensive sealer, it just adds to your incentive.................once I spent 12 hours rebuilding a multiple output gluer unit when the biker who fancied himself a killer mechanic did that on every one of like 100 fittings. We were scraping dried glue spots off the floor for a month.

The theoretical top and bottom flat or rounded irrelevent if the interference is at the sides as supposed to be. If bottoming on top or bottom then something wrong there. Thread cut too deep or worn. I HAVE seen some oddball tapered pipe fixtures that looked as if they were INTENDED to seal at the top with a gasket or o-ring though. Extra insurance maybe.

On our bike website some say same thing about the difference in Japanese (ISO) 1/8" pipe threads versus NPT, they say trouble screwing in NPT gauges into the engine boss. I never had any trouble and parts sealed fine without ever putting a tap to the threads. Maybe the joint just wasn't long enough to bring that extra thread into play. If aluminum then it might easily pull thread just enough to still seal. A .0013" error between 27 and 28 in each thread there.

What are we talking about here, 1/8" or 1/4"? My zetecs thinking 1/4" there?
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