|05-15-2013 07:42 AM|
OK well Coil 1 is definetly after market. The spring inside is almost to the bottom, the other 3 the spring is maybe 1/2" from the bottom. It also doesn't have the markings the other 3 have.
So yeah. (1 left to right facing engine, closest to passenger side).
But replacing the plugs went easy. Didn't have access to the obd computer one. My orange obd reader doesn't link to this car. It does to my other car. It's odd. So couldn't clear the pending yet. Will try in a few days to.
I took apart each one. Each spring looks fine. Boot was dirty at top. Cleaned it with a clean cloth. Other then that they look fine. Just unsure how good that 1 coil is.
|05-14-2013 03:58 PM|
I know about going easy. I have the big container with the brush. But I never used a torque wrench until recently. Trying to do things right now instead of just by feel. Although just by feel has gotten me by for almost 20 years now. But I heard that you may need to remove like 20% when adding anti seize.
Eh. I'll go easy. Thanks again.
BTW called another auto parts store here, they have that Wells C1453, they want $90 per. That ebay listing is for same exact part #. for like $14. Maybe I'll buy 1 and bring it to the store and see if it's the same. If so instead of paying $5 per boot, just pay the $14 per. Keep the electronic part stored incase.
|05-14-2013 03:54 PM|
None, it isn't as much of a lubricant as it is an anti-seizing agent, so just torque it down to the same spec you would as if it wasn't there... Just try no to get any on anything but the threads and go easy on it...
EDIT: also, I recommend nickle based anti-seize cs copper since it will have to put up with allot of heat...
|05-14-2013 03:52 PM|
|dardack||Like I said going to clean it replace sparks. If pend code, I'll try replacing boots/springs first. Heard that can be problem over just the electronic part that sits on top.|
|05-14-2013 03:36 PM|
|dardack||BTW anyone know how much torque I remove by adding anti-seize?|
|05-14-2013 02:04 PM|
Yeah supposedly it's also better for the environment or some crap. I agree it's to make more money. 1 coil pack for my 00 cost me $70 i think, new, motorcraft. Motocraft COP for dura is $80+ and you need 4.
Once I replace spark plugs/clean the boots I'll probably reset code. See if it goes into pending in a week or 2.
Anything recommend to clean the boot/COP bottom part that goes over plug?
|05-14-2013 11:29 AM|
|CotyM||^ Well he doesn't have plugs, he has the 2.3 dura, so he has 4 independent ignition coils that sit directly on top of the spark plugs... It's really BS if you ask me, because you might gain what, 2 hp? I don't think econoboxes should have high end things like that from factory, but.. whatever... Just a way for them to make more money when something fails|
|05-14-2013 11:24 AM|
|03FocusZX3||Yah at 87k and 10 years old i would replace the spark plugs and wires and what not lol. The job is easier than easy, lol. I would say it could be the plugs and wires. Just being really optimistic lol.|
|05-14-2013 11:13 AM|
|CotyM||Yep, Personally I'd clear the code myself and see how long it takes to come back of at all, could have just been a one time deal caused a bit of moisture or something... heck you could have ran over the tooth fairy|
|05-14-2013 11:03 AM|
Thanks. I see delphi there and airtex. So I may check ebay for those specifics. I don't mind ebay hassle normally. I've bought tons of parts over the years and not had problems. Even an ignition coil pack for the 00 Focus. And that's still running mad years later.
So I don't know. Just normally you can see brand names on there, with these COP's never heard of them. At least rockauto is selling the delphi/airtex.
Not even sure I need new ones yet. Going to try the cleaning/checking/replacing plugs and go from there. Like I said it's still pending. Not sure how many times it needs to happen to actually throw the code and how many times it needs to NOT happen to clear itself.
Just like to do research a head of time.
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