|Yesterday 03:31 PM|
|mishka||got the right tools. 2 wheels are off and in process of dipping :) i'm going to save the oil change for the morning. probly the other 2 wheels too lol .|
|Yesterday 01:00 PM|
Any time you remove aluminum wheels from your car, the lug nuts will loosen and they must be re-torqued/re-tightened in 50 miles or less. When re-torquing the lug nuts, with a four stud wheel you tighten them in a number four pattern, just as if you're writing the number four. With a five lug nut wheel, you tighten them in a star pattern, again just as if you're drawing a star. Otherwise the lug nuts can become loose and allow the wheel to fly off, which would rather ruin you day. lol
|Yesterday 12:54 PM|
The Ford recommended torque specifications for the oil pan drain plug for your 2013 Focus are -
Oil Drain Plug.....21 ft/lbs
Manual Transmission MTX75
Fill Plug 26 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 26 ft/lbs
|Yesterday 12:48 PM|
|mishka||nevermind the last post - was for something else i'm trying to do (plastidip wheels). I looked online and someone said 19mm or 3/4 inch socket. now the trick is finding one sold individually in store!|
|Yesterday 12:43 PM|
It's not necessary to take the wheels off to perform an oil change.
If you need to do that for some other reason, any auto parts store, or hardware store can provide you with the proper size socket. They could even let you trial fit the socket to make sure it's the correct size and then you can buy it.
|Yesterday 12:40 PM|
|mishka||thanks Bluefocus - will keep all that in mind. the oil I purchased is Castrol 5W-20 full synthetic and a Bosche premium oil filter|
|Yesterday 12:07 PM|
To help alleviate dry-start engine starts after doing an oil change, use a high quality synthetic oil as it clings to engine parts much better to help avoid this wear and tear.
One thing many neglect is to wear rubber gloves when doing an oil change. These are sold at most any auto parts store. Used motor oil is the most toxic substance in an auto center next to sulfuric acid in automotive batteries. Used motor oil has various acids, heavy metals, unburned hydrocarbons in it, etc. and is carcinogenic. Spare yourself from getting cancer years down the road and use rubber gloves to protect your skin.
When draining the oil from the engine, give it at least an hour to all drain out. The fifteen minute quickey oil changes just don't do the trick. Up to an additional half a quart + of old, dirty oil can be drained out of an engine by letting it drain for at least an hour. No benefit in contaminating new oil with old dirty oil.
|Yesterday 11:46 AM|
|mishka||ok so just a torque wrench. now i gotta find a funnel. thanks|
|Yesterday 11:42 AM|
The best way to avoid the clatter is to preload the new oil filter with oil before you spin it on. Just insert a funnel in the new filter and slowly add oil until it soaks it all up.
|Yesterday 11:00 AM|
hey all. i'm going to attempt my 1st ever oil change on a car myself today. not going to have anyone to help me so... I was a bit concerned about what he said in the instructions
" If you want to avoid some of the start-up clatter, crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter."
what does he mean by crank the engine a few seconds? it won't start the way it normally does? and when exactly do I floor the gas? I'm afraid the car will fly off the stands and wreck the house lol.
also I didn't see instructions for the drain plug. i see the red arrow but what am I supposed to do with it?
also is a torque wrench enough or do I need that 15mm wrench he's using?
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