|04-12-2013 05:08 AM|
|PowerFocer||I run AR103's at .055". Change them every 8k miles. Runs like a champ. Better power and 1-2mpgs.|
|04-11-2013 06:34 PM|
|badazz2010focus||I really do need to change my f/f|
|04-11-2013 02:19 PM|
|felixthecat||I use Denso's Iridiumum plugs. I changed the oems at 50,000. Sure beats tthe oem's. Change the fuel filter too & do a injection flush also.|
|04-11-2013 12:11 PM|
I'm "succesfully" using the 103s. Recently put them in and it runs just fine. I'm using the AR103 vice the plain 103 though. The AR103 has a back cut ground strap that exposes a little more spark area. Gapped at .055 with a wire gauge, do not use a disk gauge or it will be way off.
The AR103 is supposed to be one step colder, but with my easy driving and about 600 miles or so on them they still look excellent.
I like copper plugs on vehicles where the plug is relatively easy to get to. A little old skool, I like to see what's going on in each chamber periodically. The D23 is so dang easy to do a plug change.
Also being cheap, I use a fish hook file to flatten and clean up the center electrode when it shows wear. Getting near platinum life out of a copper plug this way as well.
So far with the AR103 my mileage is looking a little better. I will only quote numbers after averaging at least 3 full tanks of driving though.
|03-11-2013 09:00 PM|
Since I'm not looking for shorter plug lifespan than stock, I run platinum and iridium technology in everything exceept my road racing track cars. Copper plugs found on a Model T were superceded around 1972 when Champion released the Gold Palladium's. The newer platinums and iridiums are not a step backward and they do not create issues with low RPM idling misfire or loss of horsepower. Modern ignitions are designed with more than adequate spark so as not to compromise power or economy with stock plugs. If the stock plugs resulted in misfire the EPA would swarm on them due to failing emissions tests and factory engineers would be fired for incompetence lol. My cars purr smooth like a kitten and pass emissions with 75 to 100K mi on a set of double platinum plugs.
|03-11-2013 07:53 PM|
|metallicnotazx5||Platinum and iridium offer best performance over the longevity of the plug, meaning it is designed for long life and that is it.|
|03-11-2013 03:12 PM|
|Buickboy||FWIW: I ran 104's, then 103's gapped at .05 and .055. Thought it was smoother and idled nicer etc. Switched back to the stockers to rule out plugs for an issue I was having and thought it idled better and was smoother than the new 103's i had in there. No diff in noticeable power or fuel econ|
|03-11-2013 02:13 PM|
So for fun while changing oil today I pulled my plugs... bought my car through a Ford dealer, but it was a former rental. I thought the center electrode looked really fine and narrow; odd, looks like an expensive plug to me. so I wrote down the part number: they're NGK ITR5F-13 "Laser" Iridium plugs. That explains why the gap was still good; they looked a bit white on the ground tip though. To satisfy my curiosity, anyone run these plugs? Not much info on what these are equivalent to. NGK lists the plug for this car as the TR6AP-13 Platinum on their website, making this choice of plug kind of weird.
EDIT: Now that Autolite's site is working, equivalencies according to them:
NGK ITR5F-13 (what's in my car) = Autolite XP104 (Factory Heat Range)
NGK TR6AP-13 (what NGK suggests for this motor) = Autolite XP103
Ford Motorcraft SP-448 = Autolite AP104 (Factory Heat Range)
|03-11-2013 11:49 AM|
I am proud to the 10%that want ever bit performance i can out of the fofo.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using FF Mobile
|03-11-2013 10:40 AM|
We are the few who look at these cars as 'enthusiasts' and while manufacturers care about their enthusiasts, their mass produced, volume priced, compact economy cars are not the target product for us. We buy the cars and mutilate them to fit our specific needs.
Copper plugs that need replaced every 15k-20k miles are not practical for 90% of owners.
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