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Thread: How-To flush ATX fluid and change filter Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-24-2016 12:21 PM
WagN2
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkpatt View Post
...Has anyone installed a drain plug in the ATX pan while it was off . (I would like the option to do drain and fills and/or have things less messy for future pan drops.) Any tips on doing that ? - Thanks
I ordered a used trans pan with a factory drain plug from eBay for $40 / free shipping. I haven't installed it yet, but everything seems to line up exact. Same depth, indentations and bolt pattern.

Search "48765 - 4F27E, PAN, 4X4, WITH DRAIN PLUG, FORD & MAZDA"

There are 4 left, as of this post.
03-12-2016 03:12 PM
rkpatt amc49 - It almost sounds like buying that "kit" is a waste except for the hollow bolt. I don't have a 1/8 NPT tap so I would have to buy that too unless a copper washer or fiber gasket would seal better than that o-ring. I wonder if am better off getting a brass or steel reducing bushing (female npt thread in the middle) and getting it brazed on and using a brass npt plug. A friend will do it for me but not now (which is of course when I want to do the job because available downtime for the car :).

Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I mod the Help/Motormite part, the nylon gaskets suck, part does not stay tight using them.
Friggin' $2 part with $30 worth of extra work done to it like most of my stuff but again like all the rest, bulletproof in use.
Edit - I could not get the connector to release at the cooler end even though I followed the advice on the related thread here - http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/g...automatic.html but had no luck. I wound up disconnecting the line at the transmission.

03-12-2016 12:38 PM
amc49 I mod the Help/Motormite part, the nylon gaskets suck, part does not stay tight using them. Either aluminum or copper gasket and I mount in the bottom but placed close to halfway back so not exactly lowest point but close, pan is at a slight angle. Fitting clears all parts above it too. I either drill side leak holes or grind inside end of fitting to lower it to let more of the oil out since the last bit commonly dirtiest. I use a shorter/narrower nut instead of the one that comes with part to lower that drain level in pan too. A 'jam' nut from hardware store. The plug-in-a-plug idea sucks too, looks like it might fall out or leak since the oil ring there does not seal for spit, and the original as designed plug only tightens at the hit rather than threads seal like true NPT does. I redrill the hole for bigger drain passage and retap for 1/8" NPT deeper and use a small allen head plug to lower the height of outside fitting. The o-ring no longer needed or used, only slight teflon tape on the allen plug which now seals at the threads like it's supposed to. Then always use a wrench on outside of fitting at same time allen wrench is used on the plug to prevent the inner loosening instead which makes you yank pan again to retighten. The aluminum or copper gasket allows you to really torque up on fitting at the first install to make sure it does not come loose in use.

Fitting does stick out a bit but doesn't hit and I commonly go on a back dirt drive that gets pretty rutted to let car drag anything close enough to do so. Being pan is slanted and fitting about halfway back the fitting about same level as the back edge of pan. Has never touched yet and them on two cars same way.

Friggin' $2 part with $30 worth of extra work done to it like most of my stuff but again like all the rest, bulletproof in use.

B&M Racing Transmissions used to make an ATX drain plug kit but whether the company or the part still in existence is beyond me. I've used them too.
03-12-2016 11:00 AM
FocusKnot Good that you found amc's post.

Perhaps call a local tranny repair place and see how much they would charge you to weld a bung on your pan. They could cut one out of an old pan and put it on yours. With welding you'll never have to worry about it coming loose.
03-12-2016 10:40 AM
rkpatt Thanks - I agree with your suggestion about installing the drain plug on the side of the pan. I am interested in finding out how others have done this. I don't have a lot of faith in those Dorman/Motormite, Needa, B&M Racing drain plug kits with the nylon washers. I am interested in finding out how others have done it.

BTW- I found one of amc49's posts on the subject- http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/g...-flushing.html

QUOTE=FocusKnot;9594649]I think amc49 has installed drain plugs on his, so maybe he will weigh in on this.

I would install the plug in the side of the pan at the rear by the magnet. This seems to be the lowest part of the pan. There is photo of the pan in this thread (the 8th link from the top) showing the magnet. I would not put the plug on the bottom for fear that I might it might get hit with something (debris in road or whatever) and cause a problem.[/QUOTE]
03-12-2016 09:25 AM
FocusKnot I think amc49 has installed drain plugs on his, so maybe he will weigh in on this.

I would install the plug in the side of the pan at the rear by the magnet. This seems to be the lowest part of the pan. There is photo of the pan in this thread (the 8th link from the top) showing the magnet. I would not put the plug on the bottom for fear that I might it might get hit with something (debris in road or whatever) and cause a problem.
03-12-2016 08:58 AM
rkpatt Great thread . I am about to perform this procedure on a 2005 Focus ZX4. Has anyone installed a drain plug in the ATX pan while it was off . (I would like the option to do drain and fills and/or have things less messy for future pan drops.) Any tips on doing that ? - Thanks
02-02-2016 02:06 AM
amc49 I used to take the oil to dump it in store tank for customers and what got me to thinking about it. Some people change oil as low as 2500 miles and poured the oils still looked almost new. I asked manager and then kept a few dumps of those low mileage oils and marked them as to type and weight and zero cost oil for many things there.

My son changes his real early too and I keep his now since I do the changes for him. Myself, I pretty much run oil out to 9000 OCI now using dirt cheap Walmart conventional oil. Can't seem to kill the cars even doing that.
02-01-2016 08:51 AM
FocusKnot ^^^ Good ideas there for repurposing old fluid/oil.

And while we are on that subject, a lot of people don't know that most auto parts stores will take your old fluids for recycling. Used fluids are more toxic than new fluids, so please people, don't dump it out on the ground.
01-31-2016 11:23 PM
amc49 You are correct, that would be the same thing as running the engine dry of oil to change it, asking to tear up the engine. Trans oil pump is same construction as engines' and as soon as it pumps dry tries to scar itself up. Utterly retarded.

The 4F27E requires all the old fluid to orderly leave the pan before the new does and as well the 3 quarts plus in convertor to do what we're talking about here. I just don't see how that's possible. The convertor entry is very close to the exit as well and the new fluid coming in could easily short circuit, certainly not like it's on one side of convertor and the exit on the other. The convertor exit passage as well bypasses a lot of the dirty fluid back into the lube1 circuit rather than going to cooler, and another circuit back through hydraulic control too, so no direct one outlet there.

I do the multiple fill method (drain plug in pan, I don't change filter anymore) and wasteful but by the time you have hit 3X you are looking at 75+% new fluid and anything past that is no improvement. 1st time you will have 50% new, 2nd time 75% and 3rd roughly 87%. I save all of the old fluid to use it in other things now so not really wasted. I've actually used the 3rd drain amount in an older car since it was in better shape than what was in it. Excellent chain bar oil for chainsaws too. Some used to make honing fluid too. I sort it by the quality, same as drained engine oil. I use my old 30 weight engine oil in the mower now. Money can be picked up off the street if you're looking.
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