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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-05-2013 12:08 PM
BlkNite713 Agreed^^^ Replace and forget about the headache later. Rock auto is very reasonably priced, or contact Tousley Ford Part Depot, there prices are unbeatable for OEM motor craft parts:)
03-04-2013 06:03 PM
lilfocusfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
A lot of people say to change the water pump when doing the timing belt since you have easy access, but I don't think it's worth the time and money, I don't hear about water pump failures here very often (ever) as the water pump is not driven by or related to the water pump. It is iimportant that you change all the timing belt related pulleys and idlers. You can get a timing belt kit from Gates (TCK294B) that has the belt, idler and tensioner pulleys for like $90 if not less, Rockauto is generally the place to get it. You also want to get the cam timing tools, it's just a flat bar to hold the cams in place an a screw/pin that holds the crankshaft when you find TDC compression on cyl. 1. The company OTC probably sells the most inexpensive set of these timing tools but you can find other vendors, just google it. They are necessary in my opinion.

Also buy a decent repair manual to walk you through it, they're cheap and worth they're weight in gold when it comes to this. They don't mention how to position the VCT when setting the timing, you want to make sure it's rotated fully towards the front of the car before you put the belt on, of course it does move independently of the camshaft and it'll help you understand it's operation when you get the belt off. A lot of people also caution against loosening the cam gear pulleys even though it's called for in the published instructions, the cam position sensor is apparently overly sensitive about this.

There's a ton of previous discussions on this and you'll find more info if you experiment with the search function on this site (although the search function kind of sucks).
I would do the water pump if you have the extra cash... My pump went out on my way to work and car over heated without registering it on the temp gauges (i think due to air pocket in cooling system) n i almost muffed shit up... So if you can do it while your in there and you have timing,cover, moter mount n everything else off..
02-01-2013 11:49 PM
SrDudley
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
I don't know why you guys are pushing the new water pump. My dad drives an '05 ZX3 with 250K miles with no problems there, my brother has a '01 ZX3 with 220K miles and no problems with it. I'm going to say it again, the water pump is not prone to failure in my experience, and I can't recall a single instance of it coming up on this forum. You could do it for peace of mind but it would be probably be a waste of money.
Idk why you'd be so cheap as to not replace a $50 part compared to a couple hundred dollar engine again your choice... As I always say on here each to their own
02-01-2013 09:07 PM
6SPD_soul I don't know why you guys are pushing the new water pump. My dad drives an '05 ZX3 with 250K miles with no problems there, my brother has a '01 ZX3 with 220K miles and no problems with it. I'm going to say it again, the water pump is not prone to failure in my experience, and I can't recall a single instance of it coming up on this forum. You could do it for peace of mind but it would be probably be a waste of money.
02-01-2013 08:02 AM
SrDudley Another one for doing the timing bet your already that deep if you don't do it it's bound to go a couple weeks later lol.

And stick with motorcraft parts idk why people keep straying away from them they're not that bloody expensive order from tousley ford ask for Steve he's a great guy and will get you going.
02-01-2013 04:04 AM
sleepyboy I gained power everywhere when I had mine dyno tuned, I need to do it again after doing my t-belt and putting the pretty blue one on lol. Every focus is different and the cam timing can vary greatly from motor to motor. This is why we have some factory freaks and some are somewhat sedate.


Oh and I also say do the water pump, your there might as well do it for the insurance.
02-01-2013 04:02 AM
freemind
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
A lot of people say to change the water pump when doing the timing belt since you have easy access, but I don't think it's worth the time and money, I don't hear about water pump failures here very often (ever) as the water pump is not driven by or related to the water pump. It is iimportant that you change all the timing belt related pulleys and idlers. You can get a timing belt kit from Gates (TCK294B) that has the belt, idler and tensioner pulleys for like $90 if not less, Rockauto is generally the place to get it. You also want to get the cam timing tools, it's just a flat bar to hold the cams in place an a screw/pin that holds the crankshaft when you find TDC compression on cyl. 1. The company OTC probably sells the most inexpensive set of these timing tools but you can find other vendors, just google it. They are necessary in my opinion.

Also buy a decent repair manual to walk you through it, they're cheap and worth they're weight in gold when it comes to this. They don't mention how to position the VCT when setting the timing, you want to make sure it's rotated fully towards the front of the car before you put the belt on, of course it does move independently of the camshaft and it'll help you understand it's operation when you get the belt off. A lot of people also caution against loosening the cam gear pulleys even though it's called for in the published instructions, the cam position sensor is apparently overly sensitive about this.

There's a ton of previous discussions on this and you'll find more info if you experiment with the search function on this site (although the search function kind of sucks).
I disagree, do the water pump. It is insurance.

I got a 10ftlb TQ gain in the midrange from the Dyno-tuned cam gears. I'm -2exhuast and +4 intake. But every motor is different.
01-31-2013 11:35 PM
sleepyboy Do not move the VCT gear, leave it alone. Mark the cam gear teeth closest to each other so they line up before you remove the t-belt. That way if the gear does move you know what position it was in before it moved. Then install the new t-belt and make sure the marks are still lined up. Do the t-belt and adj. cam gear install before the dyno that way when you do go to the dyno you can adjust to the optimal setting.
01-31-2013 11:27 PM
CharlieO So it does not seem worth the dyno runs and cost of cam gear for minimal gains ... But thankyou guys for the help ill keep everyone updated cause i got a bunch of bolt ons comming my way and im hitting the dyno soon just wanted to make sure my timing was right
01-31-2013 11:22 PM
6SPD_soul A lot of people say to change the water pump when doing the timing belt since you have easy access, but I don't think it's worth the time and money, I don't hear about water pump failures here very often (ever) as the water pump is not driven by or related to the water pump. It is iimportant that you change all the timing belt related pulleys and idlers. You can get a timing belt kit from Gates (TCK294B) that has the belt, idler and tensioner pulleys for like $90 if not less, Rockauto is generally the place to get it. You also want to get the cam timing tools, it's just a flat bar to hold the cams in place an a screw/pin that holds the crankshaft when you find TDC compression on cyl. 1. The company OTC probably sells the most inexpensive set of these timing tools but you can find other vendors, just google it. They are necessary in my opinion.

Also buy a decent repair manual to walk you through it, they're cheap and worth they're weight in gold when it comes to this. They don't mention how to position the VCT when setting the timing, you want to make sure it's rotated fully towards the front of the car before you put the belt on, of course it does move independently of the camshaft and it'll help you understand it's operation when you get the belt off. A lot of people also caution against loosening the cam gear pulleys even though it's called for in the published instructions, the cam position sensor is apparently overly sensitive about this.

There's a ton of previous discussions on this and you'll find more info if you experiment with the search function on this site (although the search function kind of sucks).
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