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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-05-2013 04:38 PM
xsuicidesn0wmanx Honestly I wouldnt know, I did the golf tee trick 2 or 3 years ago, added on the svt header/cat/flex & a lovely fsw stealth, and left the light on for a while only checking to see if any other codes came up every few months. When i first did the golf tee thing there were no codes to speak of, right now there are no codes yet since the ecu hasnt finished doing its system checks yet in the 3 weeks since i last had the battery unhooked.

A co-worker suggested I may have a vacuum leak on the intake side, once the snow clears up i'll go check and see if there are any soft hoses, starting with the pcv and working around the back to see if all is still firm. The car is quite old now, 12 years, but only 55k miles. Hopefully i find a spongy pcv hose and that fixes everything. :D
03-05-2013 10:58 AM
Magus2727 Are you getting a code that says its the EGR? high flow, low flow? DPFE sensor a ford one? there have been issues with the aftermarket ones...
03-05-2013 12:34 AM
xsuicidesn0wmanx Did some reading up on this and found that the sulfur smell is from unburnt fuel getting to the cat, when I hook up the vacuum hose to the top of the egr valve the car has a bad stutter/rough idle, while observing the reaction of the engine while everything was hooked up i thought it sounded like it was misfiring, i'd bet that would explain why i smelt sulfur.

It however does not explain why the system still does not work, brand new motorcraft valve, and a new dpfe sensor, only thing not new is the actuator.

I'm considering seeing if i can get the dpfe workaround #2 from focushacks to work so i can pass this stupid emissions garbage.
03-04-2013 06:49 PM
xsuicidesn0wmanx Well I got it off and put on the new valve, car was better than before but still a real rough idle. Not up to 3k like before, but acted like i was revving the engine up but only like 300 extra rpm instead. Pulled off the same line off the top of the valve and car went back to normal yet again, but this time it was accompanied by a strong smell of sulfur.

I'd had the dpfe blocked with a golf tee for so long I would have never noticed if that went bad, not sure 100% if that is the problem or not, the sulfur smell is something I have not seen mentioned by anyone else with an egr issue.
03-04-2013 04:10 PM
SkyPilot yeah the nut screws into the valve, so if the valve itself is turning, somehow hold onto it while turning the nut.
03-04-2013 03:52 PM
xsuicidesn0wmanx I did remove the airbox, and i have been turning the nut, but i wasnt sure it was doing anything since the valve turns with it. Looking at the new valve I have it appears the valve should screw onto the tube, so I was a bit confused since I dont view that as 'normal'. So then if I keep going at this nut it'll eventually come off?
03-04-2013 03:45 PM
SkyPilot ya gotta get in there with a wrench and turn the nut, its a real pita spot, remove the airbox to give you more room to work.
03-04-2013 03:13 PM
EGR Valve Removal

Read through a bunch of threads on the subject but wasnt really seeing the answer to my question in any of them.

The car is an 01 SE 2.0L DOHC Zetec. I've got a salvaged egr tube/valve on the car and the valve is pretty well rusted out. At one point the car had some idling issues while the vacuum hose was attached to the nipple on it, it would rev up to 3k rpm, then drop to under 600 and almost die out, then rev itself back up to 3k and repeat. All this without any input pedal wise from me. After removing the hose from the nipple the engine then settled down and purred calmly at 1k rpm for a bit and slowly backed down to 650 and stayed there.

So I've got a brand new oem valve to throw on there, and i'm under the hood twisting & turning this nut at the intake end of the egr tube and it literally feels like i am making no progress at all. The nut & the 'saucer' looking piece are turning together, and I was hoping to do this while the tube was still on the car, even if i pull it off though I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make.

So I guess the question is, am I doing it wrong? or did I just give up too early? Am I able to get the valve off the tube by just turning that nut? or am i supposed to somehow twist this old valve off of the tube w/out any kind of grip?

Thanks in advance for any input you guys can give, it's greatly appreciated.

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